Can you test a Pertronix Distributor module?

[matts70]

I have a Pertronix plug-and-play billet distributor with the Ignitor II in it. Drove the truck on Friday all over--no problem. Sunday morning, it wouldn't start. No spark. Coil is showing 12 V and 1.1 Ohms. We put the coil in another truck and it started.

I'm guessing it's the module that went bad, but wonder if there is any other way to test it to be sure???
Can't put points back in--they don't fit a Pertronix distributor, of course.

If this thing went bad already, that stinks. It's beyond the 12 month warranty, but only survived about 2,000 miles, if that.

 

[triracer67]

Had the same issue two month's back, had to replace the module and bronco started right up. I couldn't find a test method. It makes one wonder if they are worth the benefits.

 

[matts70]

Had the same issue two month's back, had to replace the module and bronco started right up. I couldn't find a test method. It makes one wonder if they are worth the benefits.

Agreed. I know some people have had luck with Pertronix, and I hoped I would, but throwing down another $100 for a module in a barely used expensive distributor is frustrating. I previously had a Pertronix coil fail after only two years too.

 

[matts70]

I wonder--if I go back to the stock dizzy with points and condenser, do I have to reinstall the resistor wire or can I run 12 V to it? I'm guessing the resistor wire has to go back in.

 

[CopperRanger]

I had one go bad and all I could do was put the points back in to see if it really was the pertronix, and it started right up. I see you can't do that, but maybe you could contact pertronix and see if they will help you out.

 

[Toddpole]

Put in a Duraspark setup. If you can't find an OEM Motorcraft module do the gm HEI conversion. My 71 302 has it and can sit for 2 weeks and start as soon as I turn the key. My new vehicles don't start as easily.
They're still pretty easy to find in the salvage yards.

 

[jckkys]

That's at least half right. Just do a complete Duraspark install. Every part is made for Ford small blocks it all fits and looks right. Individual parts are available everywhere by just saying it's a '77. Using US made Motorcraft components insures reliability is better than any other system.

 

[jlawyer]

I have good luck with the pertronix gear... I've never run billet, only the stock look stuff.

Their generic suggestions are:

• The position in which the Ignitor red wire is attached to is not supplying sufficient voltage.
• The air gap between the module and magnet sleeve is too great.
• The ground wire inside the distributor is not connected.
• The wire connections are not tight.
• The polarity is not correct.

Definitely reach out to them and see if they can give you some advice for what you can probe with a multimeter to verify the module.

Also, the Ignitors have a 30mo warranty... not 12mo

 

[ntsqd]

Unoffical Pertronix Test Method:
1) Locate large body of water.
2) Toss unit in.
3a) If it floats it's still good, launch dinghy & retrieve.
3b) If it sinks it's no good, install a Dura-Spark II system.

 

[DirtDonk]

You could probably turn the engine over by hand until the peak of the reluctor/stator/thingy is pointed right at the pickup module in the distributor. Then, with the key on, try turning the rotor by hand back and forth with just the play afforded by the mechanical advance mechanism.
If it's pointed just right, you should get a spark every time you move the tip of the stator past the pickup.

In theory anyway...;D
Best to call them to not only see if this is a valid test, but to ask them about a new module warranty question.

One other thing I've seen happen, though this may have been my fault, is one of the wires as it passed through the distributor body and grommet got pinched and failed. Ran great for a few weeks, then started to act up a bit, then would not run.
Warranty fixed it.

Paul

 

[matts70]

Unoffical Pertronix Test Method:
1) Locate large body of water.
2) Toss unit in.
3a) If it floats it's still good, launch dinghy & retrieve.
3b) If it sinks it's no good, install a Dura-Spark II system.

That sounds like a good method except 3b. I don't know what amazing junk yards other guys live near, but when I went hunting for one, every Ford truck with a Dura-Spark had it removed.

Still waiting to hear back from Pertronix tech support, but I don't have my hopes up.

 

[ntsqd]

I look in everything Ford, not just the trucks. Found my last blue strain relief Motorcraft module under a literal pile of pack-rat shiat under the hood of a very rusty '76-ish LTD wagon. A little Super Clean and some bleach and it no longer smells bad, is clean, and works great.

 

[nrramse]

A dwell meter might work.

 

[matts70]

96 hours later, still no response from Pertronix. I sent another inquiry on how to test their modules. Again, I'm not going to hold my breath.

It is beyond the warranty period. It's exactly 4 years old (I just found the receipt). It does not get driven much, and even if it did--4 years isn't long--especially for the kind of money they charge.

May have another look at the junk yard. We'll see.

 

[jw0747]

Are you emailing and/or texting Pertronix? If so, you're wasting your time. It is so darn easy to ignore and delete texts/emails. Pick up the phone and call them. They won't bite and keep in mind that their most important goal is to please their customers...which is YOU!

 

[DirtDonk]

I agree. Although I also say that if they're going to provide an e-mail address for tech questions, they should answer that reliably and quickly as well!
But I'm old and still use the phone more often than not.

Paul

 

[matts70]

Initially, the wait on the phone was long and I didn't have the time. Plus, I needed instructions and trying to get it over the phone and write it down is a PITA and prone to mistakes. I did finally get an e-mail response with some instructions in a PDF doc. Ran through their tests--voltage and grounds are good until I turn the ignition on. Even though I have 12 volts in the ignition wire, I only have 3 volts at the coil with the Pertronix connected and ignition on. (The coil is good). I lose ground at the coil when the key is turned on.
All indicators point to a bad module.

If I could attach the PDF instructions Pertronix sent me, I'd gladly do so for others to reference in the future.

 

[dave67fd]

There are lots of testing info on the Ignitors.

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/pnx ignitor ii tests.pdf

 

[bronconut73]

Ya'know Jegs billet ready to run dixxy's are apparently rebranded billet Pertronix units.
For about 30% less, At least it was 4 years ago when I got mine.

 

[Joe473]

Initially, the wait on the phone was long and I didn't have the time. Plus, I needed instructions and trying to get it over the phone and write it down is a PITA and prone to mistakes. I did finally get an e-mail response with some instructions in a PDF doc. Ran through their tests--voltage and grounds are good until I turn the ignition on. Even though I have 12 volts in the ignition wire, I only have 3 volts at the coil with the Pertronix connected and ignition on. (The coil is good). I lose ground at the coil when the key is turned on.
All indicators point to a bad module.

If I could attach the PDF instructions Pertronix sent me, I'd gladly do so for others to reference in the future.

The ground at the coil is actually the trigger lead from the pertronix. Works just likes points. Positive lead is always hot. The Ground is applied to energize the coil and then when the points open the collapsing field generates your spark. Pull the cap and as Paul had suggested rotate the rotor back and forth and see if the ground comes and goes.
Check for excessive play in the dizzy. Im not sure how sensitve they are to gap.
Is the resistor wire bypassed? A static reading of 12v is good on positive side but there could be high resistance connection that would only show voltage drop once load of coil is applied. You could try cautiously jumping hot side of coil and pertronix direct to battery with fused jumper. Disconnect lead coming ignition to coil and pertronix first.