Knuckle pull test at 2lbs.

[FOMOCO_1546]

I'm installing my knuckles with new Dana Spicer ball joints. I've torqued the bottom nut to 70 ft. Lbs. The adjusting sleeve to 40 and the top nut to 100. I've tried different torques on bottom nut and adjusting sleeve. Every time I torque the top nut the knuckle loosens to around 2lbs. pull with my fish scale. I'm not sure if this is ok or not.

 

[RODRIG3911]

I'm installing my knuckles with new Dana Spicer ball joints. I've torqued the bottom nut to 70 ft. Lbs. The adjusting sleeve to 40 and the top nut to 100. I've tried different torques on bottom nut and adjusting sleeve. Every time I torque the top nut the knuckle loosens to around 2lbs. pull with my fish scale. I'm not sure if this is ok or not.

So my two cents... That 25lb knuckle pull is damn near impossible to get with our old knuckles. I've done this probably 5 times with different knuckles and it's always off. Last time my upper ball joint sleeve was going all the way to the bottom of the treads. Had to back it out and and do my best with what I was working with. I think for you it's going to have to be the same brother. Just do your best and call it good. I'm curious what other people say

 

[FOMOCO_1546]

Thanks RODRIG, I did the passenger side first and settled for 90-15-100 and now I'm getting 4 lbs of pull tension. The drivers side I went 90-15-100 but had to torque top nut almost a full castle nut hole to install the cotter pin. So I would guess top is torqued to 110 to 115. The reason I only torqued the sleeve to only 15 is because it started out the bottom on the passenger side. My drivers side pulls at 18 lbs. Do you think it would hurt to torque the passenger side one castle nut hole or just stop at this point ? Thanks again