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Cant get the hub and rotor off

OP
OP
KS.76Sport

KS.76Sport

Sr. Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2008
Messages
354
Loc.
Wichita, KS.
I got the "stainless" Mile Markers. The first pic is all there was when I bought the truck so I assumed I needed everything. If the OEMs are that good I'll keep them if I can. Is there a (rebuild) kit that comes with all the guts from there (in the 1st pic) out?
 

shamu

Lucky as the day is long.
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
5,290
Loc.
Sachse,Tx
Hooowhammy!! The best 12 bucks Ive spent all year! I love this site! I put a screwdriver across the hub under the ears, couple yanks and it came out.

Most definately guys I'll be saving all my parts. If I can return the favor to one of my new Bro's I will.

Now to get the spindle nut socket and away I go. :D

Mountain Ram: I noticed the wear on piece around the shaft as well, didnt think it was right. What internally would cause that? Should I replace it?

Where is the internal snap ring that hold the 6 bolt flange?
 

broncodriver99

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 27, 2008
Messages
4,780
Loc.
Glen Allen, VA
I got the "stainless" Mile Markers. The first pic is all there was when I bought the truck so I assumed I needed everything. If the OEMs are that good I'll keep them if I can. Is there a (rebuild) kit that comes with all the guts from there (in the 1st pic) out?

Looks like the only parts not in the pic are the snap ring that goes on the axle shaft, the internal ring that holds the flange with the six holes in, and the knob assy(the chrome piece with the red knob in it(bolts to the flange with 6 holes in it).

There is no rebuild kit for them, but most of the parts can be found at the bronco vendors. Jeff's Bronco graveyard and Tom's are probably your best bets as they tend to have more used parts.

Or, put an add in the wanted section as anyone doing a chevy or aftermarket disc swap has to convert to aftermarket lockouts, so you can pic a set up for a few bucks that way.

What's the other side look like?
 
OP
OP
KS.76Sport

KS.76Sport

Sr. Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2008
Messages
354
Loc.
Wichita, KS.
The big snap ring that rides on the inside lip of the hub, that holds the 6 bolt flange, was the first thing I took out before I started the thread. Thats why I couldnt figure out why the dang thing wasnt coming out. I was so excited that I got it out I forgot to put it in pic #2.

Cool looks like there is options at least to keep the OEM stuff.

The other side is intact (at least its there). It wont lock even with a set of plyers on it. Plus I think there is other "things" going on there. I can move the shafts in and out about 3/8" out of the axle tube. I not very educated on these things (yet) but that dont seem right to me. Once I get them both apart maybe I will get to see whats up.
 

Nightstick

Bronco guy
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
2,929
Unless the locking hubs are new or you don't ever plan on using 4wd I'd replace them. They are your first line of defense when something gets overtorqued up front. Much cheaper/easier to replace a hub than an axle shaft

Glad you got it figured out
 

broncodriver99

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 27, 2008
Messages
4,780
Loc.
Glen Allen, VA
The other side is intact (at least its there). It wont lock even with a set of plyers on it. Plus I think there is other "things" going on there. I can move the shafts in and out about 3/8" out of the axle tube. I not very educated on these things (yet) but that dont seem right to me. Once I get them both apart maybe I will get to see whats up.

The other side is probably gunked up or someone pulled the knob assy and didn't put it back on correctly. The slack in the axles is pretty normal, your inner axle seal is probably worn out. No biggie. Only about $10-12.
 
OP
OP
KS.76Sport

KS.76Sport

Sr. Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2008
Messages
354
Loc.
Wichita, KS.
Kick a!! guys, I really appreciate all the input. It will definitely not be the last time I start a new thread on here screaming help again. Its good to know that there is a place with good people and a wealth of knowledge to pass on. I shall do the same on here (when I know something) :)
 

Ranchtruck

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2008
Messages
766
When you put the spindle nuts back on, don't just do them up snug. The bearings will burn up. Tighten the nut to 50ftlbs while turning the hub to seat the bearings, then back it off 1/4 turn. Put the locking washer in, and make sure the pin sticking out of the nut goes through one of the holes in the washer. Spin the second nut down, and do that one up tight.
 
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