Carb help-still not running right -Austin-

[redneckrocky]

Is there an old thread on tuning the 2150?

I rebuilt it, ran new lines, new filter. Having trouble getting it to run. It will run if I choke it but will pretty quickly stall. After that It won't start for a while. I really don't know anything about tuning or adjusting this thing. Maybe I should have thought about that before rebuilding it.

Anybody in Austin looking for a carb to tune, while drinking ice cold beer?

 

[kbldawg]

Is there an old thread on tuning the 2150?

I rebuilt it, ran new lines, new filter. Having trouble getting it to run. It will run if I choke it but will pretty quickly stall. After that It won't start for a while. I really don't know anything about tuning or adjusting this thing. Maybe I should have thought about that before rebuilding it.

Anybody in Austin looking for a carb to tune, while drinking ice cold beer?

What kind of rebuild did you do? Did you completely disassemable the carb removing everything, or did you leave certain parts (choke housing, mixture screws, throttle plates,...etc)? It's hard to guess where the problem is not knowing the extent of the rebuild.

I would start with the air mixture screws. If you took those out, then you should have counted the number of turns so that you could put them back where they were. Or, you can turn them all the way in, until they bottom out, then turn them out 1 1/4 turn each. That should get it running so that you can fine tune everything else. BTW, the previous rebuilder of my carb, swapped the mixture screws and I had a heck of a time getting it to run.

I would get a tach, a timing light, and a vacuum gauge and read up on the web about tuning using each, especially the vacuum gauge. I'm not an expert, but I'm fighting some carb tune battles myself right now.

I have a pdf file that shows a pretty in depth look at rebuilding the 2100/2150, it also shows you how to set the choke, mixture screws, and idle screw. Let me know if you need it, I can e-mail it.

 

[redneckrocky]

Thanks for the replies.

The condition:
I have been driving the bronco as is for 4 years. I started having stalling problems so decided to try and fix them. As far as I know the choke has never worked. I know for sure as long as I have owned it it has not had power to it. And the linkage has always seemed to do nothing. Again I have ben driving it like this for a while, and it ran fine.

The Rebuild:
I used a standard kit. Replaced the gaskets, and other parts in the kit. I did not remove any of the screws for adjustment. I figured maybe it would help when I rebuilt it. As far as I can tell I put it together right.

Today:
I got it to idle. I took it out for a drive and now it seems to drive OK but is idling too high. I adjusted the air mixture screws until it seemed to idle without stalling with choke [or upper flap- sorry I don't know the terms].

Unfortunately I am out of time as the truck is my daily driver. I could spend some time Monday but after that I will have to have someone else look at it.

Does anyone know a good carb guy in Austin? I also wonder if it is worth paying someone to tune it. Since i can get a new carb for less than $200, how much should it cost to have it tuned. I realize I may need to tune the new one as well. Just trying to work out what might be best. If you live in Austin and know your stuff I would compensate whatever is appropriate. Thanks in advance.

Sorry this is a long question, and I am pretty lost at this point.

 

[ugly74]

adjust the choke so it is open ALL the time. you do not need it where you are at. when adjusting the idle screws, you are looking for the highest,smoothest idle RPMs. that way, you know it's using the air/fuel mix best. only then,do you turn down the speed (with the idle speed adj. screw) to where it needs to be. if it otherwise drives fine, then just what I previously mentioned, and you should be ok