Centech Harness; Help find a switched ign. Wire

[raleigh_bronco]

I need help with identifying a wire from the Centech harness that is switched ignition power for my Trigger controller. The Trigger system is a Bluetooth style controller that allows for remote operation of auxiliary accessories such as fog lamps, light bars, etc. It is a 3 wire system; battery +, ground, and ignition switched. For BATT +, I will wire it directly to the Optima.

So digging through loom on the passenger side of the harness I found 2 wires that are easy to access and are currently terminated & not used;

wire 1 - is the white wire labeled “I Term” that is designated for the Starter Sol.
wire 2 - is the hunter green wire labeled “Reg S” that is designated for the Voltage Regulator S.

I need your help guys. I believe the white wire is hot when the ign is keyed to the on position, but wanted the brethren to chime in on this issue.

 

[73azbronco]

what setup do you have? I would not use starter wire. Do you have a schematic, they have them on their website

 

[serial car restorer]

Do you have a multimeter? Easy to figure out a switched wire that way. The descriptions of the 2 wires you found do not sound like switched power. The solenoid trigger may only be hot when the starter is cranking, the voltage regulator may be hot all the time.

 

[raleigh_bronco]

what setup do you have? I would not use starter wire. Do you have a schematic, they have them on their website

I have a 306 with the sniper Efi & Hyperspark controlling the timing. 3G alternator.

 

[raleigh_bronco]

Do you have a multimeter? Easy to figure out a switched wire that way. The descriptions of the 2 wires you found do not sound like switched power. The solenoid trigger may only be hot when the starter is cranking, the voltage regulator may be hot all the time.

my fluke crapped the bed years ago…

 

[serial car restorer]

my fluke crapped the bed years ago…

Sounds like time for a new one. I've been spending time over the past couple weeks completely rewiring my '69. Could not get it done with out my meter.

 

[raleigh_bronco]

You‘re definitely right. My harness is completely covered in loom, so I wanted to get a general idea for a good switched wire and its location under the hood. It will make this search go much easier.

I looked at the I term and it sounds like you are right about the I term being full hot only during the cranking process.

 

[gr8scott]

There should a a blue wire labeled IGN or at least there is on my harness.

 

[raleigh_bronco]

Edit; I found an old post from DirtDonk where he explained the 3 wires at the voltage regulator; “There should be nothing on the Green w/red wire with the key OFF. But full voltage with the key ON.”
‘In this case the green/red wire is from the original wiring harness and connects to the REGULATOR ‘S’.

 

[73azbronco]

might not be best source as a sense.

 

[DirtDonk]

Either can work. The Green is more certain, but the White would work as well if you have it connected at the other end. Time for a new volt-meter it sounds like...

That Green wire should work. It was for the original voltage regulator, which it sounds like you've gotten rid of? Using a later model internally regulated alternator?
But they also (or used to) include an additional Green wire with a GM-looking connector on the end. Strictly extra accessory wire, but may be on with the key in the ACC position too.
But marked "REG S" (sounds like a Windows prompt!) it should be hot in ON only.

Why not test it? Forget just guessing, and get a new volt-meter. You're not done with your project yet, so there is always a need for a multi-meter. If you don't want to spend for a new Fluke, just get a $5 special. Or even a $20 cheapie. Worth every penny!

Oh, and the end of the other wire you're talking about, the White marked "I Term" will have 12 v on it when the key is ON too. But ONLY if you connected the other end. It's an open ended wire, intended for early style ignitions with the ballast resistor.
Are you using the ballast resistor? Did you splice the other end of the White wire into one of the (blue? Green?) wires going to the positive side of the ignition coil? I'm guessing not, since it sounds like you're running EFI and computers and such. Which don't normally need the White wire.
If you don't remember, and it's all wrapped up, then just like above, whip out the volt-meter and see if there is power on the wire with the key in the ON position.

Paul