Chevy 1 ton steering conversion?

[needabronco]

OK I nuked my drag link 'attempting' to pull my steering box out, so it looks like I need to do my 1 ton steering linkage swap. I only have 2 weeks till the Stampede, so I'm in a hurry.

I know I need the following;
ES2026R drag link
ES2027L drag link
ES2234R tie rod end
ES2233L tie rod end

I believe I need approx. 38" of tube for the tie rod and approx. 25" for the drag link. What I'm not so sure of is the tube size? I was thinking 2" .250 wall tube with threaded inserts, or using 1.25" with a .812 inner diameter and just having them tapped for the rod ends. The latter is what the fab shop in town recommends. I'm not sure if its going to hold up. Eventually I'll run 35"s.

Am I on the right track here?

 

[Broncoman]

I think I was closer to 36 and 24 inches of 1.5OD .25 wall with weld in bungs.
2" is too big. 1.5 is already beefy. It holds up fine. I am expecting my box to be the next weak link.

 

[Fitz24]

I am considering the same setup. I may opt for the smaller 1.25" but still not sure. My thought, based on some others experiences on CB, is that it may be better to have a steering linkage bend than break the steering box or a knuckle arm. The linkage can be bent back into shape to at least get off the trail. Even if it breaks, its an easier on trail fix than the steering box.

 

[bigjhoov]

one stop shopping....

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133135

 

[Nobody]

Use the 1.25OD stuff. Anything more is a waste. The TRE's bend/break before the tie rod.

 

[Bronchole]

I used 1.625" 4130 hardened chromolly solid hex stock (McMaster Carr). Never bent my linkage since!

 

[needabronco]

Looks like I'm going to use 1.25" .219 wall tube and have them tapped for left and right thread. Any one see anything wrong with that plan?

 

[Tito]

Should be fine I think that is what the stonecrusher stuff is. I have that on the wife's but have done the 1.5" with the weld in bungs on all my others as it is easy to do at home since I dont have a tap.

 

[needabronco]

There's a fab shop in town that has both the left and right hand taps, and does it on a lathe, they will also ream the knuckles, all for $85. The Strap On man wants $55 for the cheap tap, and the weld in bungs would be $45 shipped, so I'll try this route. I think I'd much rather bend the tie rod linkage, then brake something else and not make it home.

 

[Tito]

Thats a pretty good deal to do all that work, do it!

 

[bronko69er]

I used 1.625" 4130 hardened chromolly solid hex stock (McMaster Carr). Never bent my linkage since!

Holy deep pockets batman!

 

[trailpsycho]

When I was looking, i could only locate 1.375 (0.25 wall) chromolly tube. The drill didnt have to remove much material prior to tapping. It should be plenty strong and a lathe is the only way to go. Its good to have friends. Its almost impossible to imagine someone tapping appropriately sized tube by hand 4-5" deep.

If you havent already sourced the tube...since you can take the ends back or keep them as spares. Just order up a set from Mike. $250 shipped is beyond cheap (see the link above).

 

[bronko69er]

Its almost impossible to imagine someone tapping appropriately sized tube by hand 4-5" deep.

I tapped mine by hand, took a while but got it done.

 

[trailpsycho]

I tapped mine by hand, took a while but got it done.

Wow, thats impressive.

 

[bronko69er]

Yeah took a little over an hour to do all 4 ends.
That was with a 2' breaker bar and socket on the tap too!

 

[Nobody]

I've tapped several sets by hand. I first ream the tubes to the specified diameter. The trick is to get the taps started straight and they cut like butter. Not all taps are created equal! I usually use one of the jam nuts over the tap to help get started straight.

 

[needabronco]

The steel shop is closed on Friday's they claim to be 'wheelin' must be nice... Anyway I'll hopefully pick up the rod ends this weekend and get on it the first of next week.

 

[Bronchole]

Holy deep pockets batman!

Ya, the price has almost trippled since I built mine, but if you look at McMasters 4130 1.625" round stock, it's not quite as pricy, and the outside surface is ground, not raw.

I have always tapped the holes in the ends. It's tough, but there is no concern over the quality of the weld or how much thread is engauged. I like the idea of using the jam nut as a guide.

Dan

 

[86caprirs]

So if you do the chevy one tonne swap, what do you do with the track bar? I have the 5.5" lift with a track bar drop bracket welded on. Can I still use that or do I need a riser on the other end?

 

[Bronchole]

I am running stock mount on the axle and the frame (You also need to be asking about the drop pitman arm, it is part of this same equasion, mine is stock also with the $huvy TRE mounted in to the bottom of it). This is not optimal.

I would suggest a mild drop pitman arm, a mild track bar drop bracket and a mild track bar riser on the axle side. The end result you are looking for is having the track bar and drag link running near parallel to each other and try to make them nearer to parallel to the ground. I do not suggest just using a major drop pitnum arm because of the extra stress it puts on to the steering box.