Chevy 1 ton steering conversion?

[86caprirs]

Hmmm. but if I keep the tie rods under......I may have the proper angles?

 

[needabronco]

If you cut off the track bar drop bracket, and fab up a mount all the way out on the end of the axle housing by the knuckle on the other end you should be able to run a stock pitman arm and have your track bar be pretty much parralel and end up with even better geometry. Sounds about as clear as mud I know but search for a 'full length track bar' you should be able to figure it out. I have most of the parts to do this to mine, I just have to find the time to do it... I still haven't finished the rest of my 1 ton steering conversion yet. I honestly forgot about it until this thread popped up again...

 

[bigmuddy]

I run my chevy TRE conversion over the knuckles and I also run a stock pitman arm. I used to run a dropped pitman arm but recently installed a raised bracket. My rig drives like a new one.

Ben

 

[trailpsycho]

I run my chevy TRE conversion over the knuckles and I also run a stock pitman arm. I used to run a dropped pitman arm but recently installed a raised bracket. My rig drives like a new one.

Ben

I am running a very similar setup to Ben's. WH's axle riser bracket, adjustable track bar, stock pitman arm, 1.375" Chromolly tube X 0.25 wall--tapped, OVER the knuckle on 76 stock Disc knuckles.

Really, the best deal is through MoabMike (extremecustomfabrication). http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133135

You can buy the Reamer from Northern Tool for about $20-25. I used it on all of my parts and it has been used since...its still fine...just use a drill press and lots of oil.

Good luck.

 

[bmc69]

I installed Mike's Chebby 1-ton kit last night. I replaced the inverted y junk on a '76 and lifted it 3.5" at the same time. Tie rod under in stock location, no drop bracket or riser on the track bar..stock pitman arm. Angles of drag link and track bar are identical.

I have the Xcut reamer..makes short work of the tapers.

Took me about 2 hours to install Mike's heim steering DOM kit on my other junk last Monday..replacing what was pretzeled and broken from the last Big Dogs event (not Mike's stuff I broke).

Mike loves me.%) %)

 

[robofig]

You can buy the Reamer from Northern Tool for about $20-25. [/QUOTE]

I checked at Northern Tool and could not find a reamer. Am I looking in the right site, or maybe you have a link. Thanks for any help.

 

[86caprirs]

I don't have the stock pitman arm as I bought the Bronco already lifted. Is it a must to do that if I do a tie rod over? Or will it work with a tie rod under?

 

[DanWheeler]

here's one vote for the ballistic chevy kit

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Steering-Kit-Chevy-Tie-Rod-Ends_p_1338.html

 

[burntfish]

I have the cheby steering with the 1.25 tube. I also have the WH trac bar riser, adjustable trac bar and a factory Pittman. Mine rids and steers great with a 5.5 lift and 35 Krawlers.

 

[bigmuddy]

One other thing for those wanting to build their own system. You will likely need to track down the jam nuts for the TRE's as not all the TRE's come with them anymore. I had to order a couple out of colorado when I built mine.

Ben

 

[bmc69]

One other thing for those wanting to build their own system. You will likely need to track down the jam nuts for the TRE's as not all the TRE's come with them anymore. I had to order a couple out of colorado when I built mine.

Ben

Mike supplies all the jam nuts with his kit..naturally enough.

 

[trailpsycho]

You can buy the Reamer from Northern Tool for about $20-25.

I checked at Northern Tool and could not find a reamer. Am I looking in the right site, or maybe you have a link. Thanks for any help.[/QUOTE]


My bad, it was Wholesale Tool. We have one local and I went in and asked about them, the guy pulled out a catalog we found one that had the right ratio, so he grabbed a few from the shelf and I had the Tie-rod with me to check the taper...I walked out with it for about $25.

I am not sure which one it was from their web-page... http://tool.wttool.com/search?p=Q&t...true&af=&do=search&do=search&w=tapered+reamer BUT I can try to look up the PN tonight, if its at my house...not sure if I left it with my fabricator buddy (I know I left the taps and drill bits with him, so our extended friends can benefit)...but I think he already had the same reamer. I will check tonight. I wasnt able to reach him by phone just now to have him check.

 

[bigmuddy]

BMC69 you are correct, which if I had to do it over again I would just buy a complete kit from Mike.

Ben

 

[trailpsycho]

The reamer I used is on this web page. http://www.wttool.com/category-exec/category_id/21473

We had both reamers 1151-0545 and 1151-0535. I believe it was the 7/8" reamer (0545) that I purchased for this job. I would take the PS TRE with you to verify the taper to be sure. I believe that there is actually overlap between the 1151-0535 (almost but not quite thick enough), 1151-0540 (may be OK) and 1151-0545 (pretty sure this is the one I used) sizes...the taper should be the same rate only the initial and ultimate thickness changes...so the 0540 might be a good compromise....but make sure you determine for yourself that you are comfortable that the taper rate and diameters of the reamer that you use are right for your and your TRE before you ream. This should get you on the right track...if you take measurements of the TRE, you should be able to call their tech line to get specs and make sure you get the right tool.

A basic tip: Tape the reamer at the upper height of the correct taper as a depth-guage to ensure you dont over-ream the knuckles or the pitman arm (dont forget the pitman arm). HTH.

 

[McLeod]

I use the X-cut reamer. #5952
http://www.xkut-reamers.com/servlet/the-7/1-dsh-1-fdsh-2"-TAPER-PER-FOOT/Detail

They have excellent customer service too.

Before I bought this one, I originally bought the SnapOn R121 unit that several had suggested. It is close but not the proper angle for a precise fit on a street vehicle.

 

[robofig]

Thanks Trailpsycho for the PM and your time. Robofig

 

[86caprirs]

I was hoping to do this myself as getting kits from the USA is really expensive as soon as it hits the Border into Canada. What starts out as a deal goes really expensive up here.

 

[Nobody]

I recommend the reamer from speedway motors. Spiral flutes are the ticket. Straight flutes are more for deburring.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ball-Joint-Tapered-Reamers,2918.html

 

[86caprirs]

So thoes part numbers are good numbers for what manufacture? Moog?

What length of DOM am I going to need for tie rods and drag link on a 5.5" suspension lift. I do have a dropped pitman arm.

Also I heard if I get the right "id" of DOM I can thread for the tie rods and not need the welded inserts. Is that better way to go?

 

[86caprirs]

It may be cheaper in the long run to just go with a kit from the sponsers on here then build my own kit.