• Just a reminder that you won't be able to start new posts or reply to existings posts in the Archive forum.

    This is where all the old posts go so they can still be used for reference and searched.
  • Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Clutch Linkage Problems

Mazeing

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2001
Messages
145
I have had problems with the cotter pins that hold the bar that connects the top of the clutch pedal with the Z connector ?:? on the frame breaking. Is there something I'm not doing that would make them stay better?

I've had the pin at the Z connector break once and the pin at the top of the clutch break twice in the last couple of months.

When the pin at the Z connector broke, it was while my step-son was out joyriding (while his mom and I were out of town). Luckily, it broke in front of his buddy's house and his buddy's mom was able to fix it by using a curtain hook. I just had to be careful reaching around it to make sure I didn't get snagged by that thing :eek:

Anyway, I'm getting sick of replacing these things. The one at the top of the clutch pedal is right next to a brace (or something) for the driver's side vent, so I have to go from under the dash and (of course) the pin needs to be inserted between the pedal arm and the brace for the vent (less than 1") :mad:. With my hands it's a PITA to get to (especially upside down and backwards under the dash).

Does anybody have any idea on how to keep these stupid things from breaking, or eliminate them altogether (short of going to a hydraulic clutch system $$)?
 

Skuzzlebutt

PhD, Dr. of Broncology
Joined
May 26, 2001
Messages
4,393
Loc.
Honeymoon Bay
The cotter pin on mine broke about a month after I bought it. I used a paper clip to get me to a hardware store to get a proper pin and it's been fine ever since. That was ten years ago.

So I guess I don't know of any secret.

A couple things to check are all the bushings involved with the pedal, rod, & equalizer bar (bell crank). Worn or missing bushing allow vibration which could be causing the early failure of your pins.

P.S. You're the first guy to spell "cotter" correctly here in quite a while.
 

ballistic64

Full Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2002
Messages
441
Loc.
Piedmont , SD
If you havent already,slide a washer over the ends of the rod before installing the cotter pins,this will keep them from wearing so fast.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,708
The washer works good.
Check the pin and bore in the linkage, if they wear at an angle like they often do, it will always put pressure on the pin and kill it.
If you open the hood, you can pull the drivers side vent out, this gives excellent access to things like the back of the speedo. I can't remember if this will help with linkage or not.
 

edjolly

Full Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2002
Messages
357
Loc.
Denver Colorado
ballistic64 said:
If you havent already,slide a washer over the ends of the rod before installing the cotter pins,this will keep them from wearing so fast.


That's the ticket. If you go to a good hardware store, and get a brass shim type washer, the fix should last for years. Get two--one on each side of the pedal for smooooooth operation. Just make them thin enough. Check it once a year or so to watch the wear on the shim--the pin should last forever against a brass shim.

A regular washer will help, but they're not smooth, and they're harder than the pin, so they'll still wear it.

Or (this is a real good fix) an excellent hardware store will have plastic flanged bushings that will fit snug inside the hole on the pedal arm. Slide that round rod into that, put a brass washer in it, and you're living the high life. These need replaced once a year or so.

Ed
 
Top