Clutch will not release to put in gear.

[Dogman71]

Working on my project, trying to get it on the street after 30 years...so the short story is 30 years ago I had my buddy's brother replace the clutch on my EB. Although a great mechanic with a lot of engine builds he had problems, worked on my EB around other cars he was working on then his family threw him out. I had to pick up my EB with an unfinished clutch and the truck sat all this time until about 1 1/2 years ago I brought it home and started working on her. Anyways, finally got to the point where I fired it up a few weeks ago, replaced a column shifter rod that was rusted and I had snapped the adjuster so now I am able to shift gears on the column while the vehicle is off. Looking at what appeared to be left to complete the clutch work, it was missing the adjusting rod, spring, and dust cover boot. The transmission was lined up with the cross member but was missing the lower mounting bushings, nuts, bolts and washers. The cross member was not bolted to the frame as well. He had checked the transfer case back in the day, it was clean, he repainted it along with the tranny. It was all bolted in place along with the bell housing so I provided the missing parts mentioned and adjusted the clutch rod as per specs with the approx 1" of pedal play. I also replaced the bushings and felt washers on the clutch equalizer bar. So, ready to try put in gear and go but pushing in the clutch pedal it wont go into gear, just grinding, obviously not forcing it. I put it in gear while turned off, press in the clutch pedal, go to start it and it lunges as if I hadn't pushed in the clutch pedal. I messed with the adjustment rod, same issue. I can see the adjustment rod pushing on the clutch fork the full length. So, took the boot off and found the clutch fork seems to have about 1/2" of vertical play, not sure if this is common. I can feel some pressure but not very much when I push on the clutch fork by hand. I'm hoping it is some sort of adjustment needed before I get to play and remove everything to expose and inspect the clutch. I'm pretty good on R&R parts but have never tackled a clutch project so bear with me on my inexperience. Any suggestions would be helpful! I would ask him but he passed away some years ago now..

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, My guess the clutch is stuck to the flywheel. I don't know if you can drive it, starting in gear, that would probably loosen it. I'm sure someone here will have a reasonably safe way to loosen it up. Good luck

 

[bronkenn]

I agree with Ron. I have seen clutches stick to the flywheel before and have put the trans in the highest gear and have someone give you a little tug with another vehicle and that usually will break it loose. Just take it easy and it should free up. Ken

 

[Dogman71]

That would be great, humm I do live on a decent slope and it is tuned well...I think I will wait for a few more responses before I try it and bring along my AAA card for the tow back Lol, but it does make sense!

 

[Crush]

Yep nclut h stuck to flywheel im sure. If You can get it in the clear with a long run infront if you then start it in 1st gear With your foot on the clutch pedal. Keeping your foot on the pedal give it gas and let it off making the bronco buck. You can also manipulate the coutch pedal while you are doing this. It should eventually break loose. I have had several old cars that sat for ling periods of time do this. This maneuver has worked every time but once. That truck had to have the trans removed and the clutch pried off the flywheel

 

[Broncobowsher]

If you are sure the linkage is working properly and the travel should be releasing the clutch, it is stuck.

Start it in gear. Hold the clutch to the floor. On and off the gas, get aggressive if you need to. Don't expect it to be a gentle operation that happens on the first try. It can take a fair number of tries before it releases. I have also heard of propping the clutch pedal to the floor with a 2x4 so you can use both feed to mash the gas and brakes (all 3 pedals mashed at the same time).

Worst case, the clutch stays stuck or the disk looses material, you get to do a clutch job. Which you are going to have to do anyway since the clutch is stuck together. So nothing to loose by trying it.

I have had motorcycles that were real bad about this. I had to ride around with the clutch pulled and get on it hard a couple of times for it to free up. The bike was showing me that I needed to ride it more.

 

[cldonley]

I had a 65 Chevy pick up with a 327 and 3 on the tree back in the 70s. I worked on a tow boat so I was gone 30 days and came home to a stuck clutch. I started it in gear and let it lurch around for a few and it came loose. Drove it a long time after that with no issues. Since yours has been sitting so long, may not be that easy, and may have to replace like Bowsher said, but starting it in gear should free it up.

 

[blubuckaroo]

Did you replace an old three fingered pressure plate with a diaphragm type? I've found the diaphragm type needs more travel to disengage.
I had to adjust the rubber pedal bump stop higher to get enough travel.

 

[Dogman71]

In reading about the full pedal travel length being adjusted by raising or lowering the bumper stop, I did not mess with it since the clutch fork is moving the full travel. I can hear it bottom out. I'm not certain if he used a diaphragm back then, he may have as an upgrade. I had peeked at the rubber stop and wasn't sure how it could move up or down, seams the bolt ran thru it on the bracket but I really didn't get under the dash to really get a good look as to how it works, just looked light a fixed stop. I'm sure it is adjustable if I look into it further but again I'm getting the full clutch fork travel. Let me know if that is not the case...Thanks!

 

[Teal68]

The hole in the stop is off center so depending on the position it is tightened down it adjust the length of pedal travel.