conversion to electric choke

[Jason72Bronco]

Im running 12 volts to my choke using the throttle solenoid wire thats right there at the carb for EBs with an automatic. It gets power any time the key is on.

This is also what I used....

 

[jckkys]

It's surprising the wiring arrangement used by the factory that is the simplest, most sanitary, and is already there, somehow needs to be changed. Worse yet I'm the only one posting on this thread who's even tried it. And after trying it, I found it works well. There seems to be an irrational need to fix what isn't broken. Chokes have a purpose and a choke that opens too soon defeats that purpose. Only if it's assumed all chokes open too slowly, would a race make any sense. The stater terminal heats and opens any brand of electric choke cap as quickly as anyone would want it to.

 

[Slowleak]

I don't have a factory wire from the stator on my '77 and my carb apparently was set up for hot air only in spite of the emission related thermostatic controlled choke coil which many 77 models had. My cap did not have a connection for a wire either. My Bronco has a Phoenix DSO so it may be that Ford did not add the electric assist to it. I don't know.

Anyway, I added the electric choke cap. It specifies 12 volts keyed power. I agree that the stator will work as quick as I would want but so would any keyed power source. The fact is, the solenoid wire is already there and using it is the simplest and most sanitary for me. No wiring was tapped into or modified. It took a 8 inch pigtail plugged into the connector.

I expect that the other posters, just like me, would be happy to use the factory stator wire if it was already next to the carb or could even be found. The bottom line is that it is really not that big of a deal, it just needs power.....if it opens too soon you rotate the cap to adjust it. Thats why it rotates.

 

[Steve83]

...I'm the only one posting on this thread who's even tried it.

You've said that twice now, but how did you determine that?

 

[cs_88]

When I bought my Bronco it had a 1406 that was connected to the alternator. When I installed my 3G I changed it over to 12V because that's what Edelbrock recommends.
Seemed to work just fine either way.

 

[jckkys]

Well 83, nobody has disclosed what would have to be more relevant ie. actual experience using the stater, while instead speculating on what they think should work. If any poster on this thread besides myself, had indeed used this method, they kept it to themselves for no logical reason.

 

[Slowleak]

I have owned several Broncos with electric chokes connected to the stator. Thats the way Ford built them. So I do know from actual experience that it will work fine either way.

 

[Jason72Bronco]

The instruction sheet with my new Holley carb, stated the electric choke must be hooked to switched FULL 12v supply....in bold red letters. So that's what I did. No probs since then. (My voltmeter at the starter switch showed less than 12v)

 

[turbotim2]

This whole thread is a solid argument for a manual choke...

 

[Jason72Bronco]

Viperwolf1 provided this excellent advice to me on 12v supply for electric choke:
"You should have switched 12V at that other unused connector just below this one. That was for the idle speed solenoid. Should be a blue wire."

Original thread so you can see pics he is referring to:

http://www.classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262610

 

[Steve83]

...they kept it to themselves for no logical reason.

Maybe because it's irrelevant chest-beating. If I had never seen a carburetor, that wouldn't affect my statements' accuracy. But my Bronco originally had a carb with a statOr-powered choke heater. And in my decades of working on vehicles professionally & as a hobby, I've seen a few others.

Now my chest is sore... %)

My point was, and remains, that you have to begin by KNOWING what kind of heater you've got.

 

[jckkys]

Apparently the Holley and Edelbrock choke caps haven't been told that they can't work with the stater power source. They didn't read the instructions or see 83's diagrams. Instead they go right on working perfectly well for many years. Reality is inconvenient that way.

 

[Steve83]

You live in your own version of reality, don't you? I never posted anything like what you're imagining. But have fun...

 

[chrisd0729]

The fact is, the solenoid wire is already there and using it is the simplest and most sanitary for me. No wiring was tapped into or modified. It took a 8 inch pigtail plugged into the connector.

I have a 77 with manual tranny - does that mean I don't have this solenoid wire? If I should have it, where exactly is it near the carb?

thanks

 

[Slowleak]

On my 77 it is a red wire coming out of the firewall just above the valve cover on the drivers side. There is a 4 wire plug going to the neutral safety switch which comes out of the same hole. I dont know if wires route the same way on a non-auto or if they have this wire in the harness.

 

[jckkys]

I wouldn't be surprised if your solenoid wire suffered the same fate as my new '77. The insulation either wore or melted creating a dead short. So when I turned on the ignition a little puff of smoke came from under the dash and I found a bare and burnt wire on the intake. I had removed the solenoid and it took a while to figure out what the wire had done since the engine ran as well as ever. The origin was the ignition switch. There was no fuse protecting the circuit. It may be the solenoid was not part of the standard wire harness and could be selectively added to meet local emissions laws. My '77 had a manual originally, so the tranny type doesn't make a difference.