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Cooling Issues

broncoP

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2001
Messages
890
Having cooling issues. Thermostat wouldn't open, wasn't getting any coolant to upper hose. Ran truck without thermostat and it flowed through upper hose and through rad. . I Put it in boiling water and it opens so it is good. Drilled a 1/8 hole in it, put it in and it opened and flowed through upper hose but then wouldnt flow through rad? Engine was rebuilt about 14 yrs ago, runs great but only started periodically. I replaced waterpump as it was gummed up a bit. Could rad being plugged a bit cause this. Was gonna order one of those aluminium rads on ebay. I also just did head gaskets on motor.
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
On the thermostat did you put the flat side with the copper sensor towards the engine side and the domed bail side towards the radiator hose? Did you fill the radiator with engine running with the front of the truck nose high so bubbles can work their way out of the engine? Did you fill the radiator to the top with no airspace? Do you have a coolant recovery bottle?
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,918
How was your water pump gummed up? If the insides were in bad shape, it's very possible for any other part of the engine and cooling system to be gummed up too. So only you'll be able to tell by inspecting it further.

Is it the stock electrical system? Reason I ask is that I would hesitate to put an all-aluminum radiator in a Bronco that sits for extended periods of time. The aluminum is more susceptible to electrolisys and all the other fancy sounding names where dissimilar metals and stray electrons are combined.
Brass/Copper is susceptible too of course, but much less so than aluminum.

If your electrical system has been modernized and grounds added, it's likely not going to be a problem.
Still, I'd make sure to add the sacrificial anodes to it, just in case.
Like this: http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/s?keyword=sacrificial+anode

Good luck.

Paul
 

SHX669

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 9, 2009
Messages
1,997
Is it possible you have a wrong rotation/ direction water pump?
Things can get misboxed - i got a high dollar fan that was reverse rotation in a std rotation box - looked kinda funny - glad i didnt install.
 

U-Bronco

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2002
Messages
78
Loc.
Vancouver, BC
remember that water boils at 212F, all you've proven by dropping it in boiling water is that it opens... it could be opening at the wrong temperature...
 
OP
OP
broncoP

broncoP

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Sr. Member
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Oct 22, 2001
Messages
890
I didnt raise front of truck and don't have a overflow tank in it right now.
It has been upgraded to electronic ignition.
The waterpump had some crud blocking flow a bit. When I pulled heads I inspected /cleaned passages in block, they looked good. Couple head bolts weren't at proper torque, put new head gaskets and retorqued.
I was wondering about waterpump but I did end up getting it to flow.
I ended up ordering one of those 3 core aluminum rads on ebay last night. How can they do it for $110 shipped, China I guess.... I'm thinking rad could be plugged up a bit judging by some of the crud I found.
Should I also try bypassing heater as well. I did blow it out and gludhed it but maybe some crud in there.
I will try the things you guys mentioned and buck up and try another 5 buck thermostat. Probably wait till rad dhows up though
 

DirtDonk

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The waterpump had some crud blocking flow a bit. When I pulled heads I inspected /cleaned passages in block, they looked good.

That's good news. But yes, the smaller passages of the radiator are usually where things can more easily build up too, so you might be on to something with that.

Couple head bolts weren't at proper torque, put new head gaskets and retorqued.

Did any of the cooling issues happen to start, or get worse, after the new gasket install? Just wondering because there are some head gasket issues with certain brands that many have had around here over the past few years.

...I ended up ordering one of those 3 core aluminum rads on ebay last night. How can they do it for $110 shipped, China I guess...

That's exactly how. It can be made, shipped and distributed for less than the cost of just turning the lights on at a factory here. Unfortunately for our factories. Cost of a higher standard of living and fairness to the workers I would guess.
But you have to accept the trade-offs sometimes too, when you get something that's either inferior or fails quickly or happens to include toxic components that are illegal here even to import, but that get missed often enough to make it worth their while.
But hey, it's cheap... And in most cases for companies like Champion at least, the product usually works as advertised.

Should I also try bypassing heater as well. I did blow it out and gludhed it but maybe some crud in there.

Well, other than to avoid contaminating the new clean stuff, I don't see any reason to isolate the heater. It actually adds cooling capacity to the system rather than taking it away.
I would just make sure it's clean and leave it connected.

Paul
 
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OP
broncoP

broncoP

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Sr. Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2001
Messages
890
. I used Felpro gaskets, a hair thicker than whst was on before. 66-68 or around there used a different rad overflow setup didnt they, ? This is a 67. Can that make a difference?
 

nvrstuk

Contributor
Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
Joined
Jul 31, 2001
Messages
8,988
broncoP, you mentioned there was junk in your coolant passages. Make sure you clean the block, heater core, waterpump, etc with block cleaning solution BEFORE you install the new China radiator or it will be plugged up before your engine reaches operating temperature.

I've used citric acid for the last 20 years but you can go to your local parts store and buy some stuff that will release the crap that's stuck to everything in your cooling system. Follow the directions to the letter.

You must do this before installing the new radiator!

Good luck.
 

DirtDonk

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Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,918
66-68 or around there used a different rad overflow setup didnt they? This is a 67. Can that make a difference?

No EB had an overflow setup until '73. If you mean the "surge tank" setup that only the early models had (the brass tank with the filler cap that sat on top of the engine compartment) then yes, it went away after '67 or '68 if I remember.

Paul
 
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