Cooter's Explorer 5.0/4R70W Swap

[Cooter_76]

Cooter I’m install the same 2 into 1 exhaust with headers as you. I’m running into the same problem as you with the transmission lines on the 4r70w. But my question is how did u get the transmission dipstick tube to clear the header? My in hits and won’t allow me to install my header. Also do you think the heat from the headers will be problem on the transmission lines running across the top of the frame rail? I ask because I installed my in the same way.


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My dipstick tube is making contact with the header flange. I don't remember if I had to bend the tube to get it to fit, but I know I've since been able to pull the tube and reinstall without messing with the headers.

I sure hope the transmission lines won't see too much heat from the headers. I tried to run them as far away as I could. I also put some heat sleeve on the lines where they cross over the exhaust.

 

[lagbolt]

Thanks for the pictures. I think for the dipstick tube I’m gonna move the bolt flange piece that goes to the back of the head down a bit. Allowing me to draw the tube closer to the bell housing.


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[904Bronco]

I re-bent the factory lines and added heat sleeving as well... Dipstick tube does require a little massaging... But I don't have headers, factory exhaust...

 

[lagbolt]

904 where did u get the heat shield for the lines?


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[904Bronco]

904 where did u get the heat shield for the lines?


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Thermo-Tec Thermo-Sleeve Protectors from Summit Racing

 

[Cooter_76]

I looked for a good picture, but came up with this point on the Pass side of the block to attach the negative cable from the Battery. Since it is unused, although my 96 Explorer Alt bracket has a 4th mounting bolt on the front side? I run a tap through these threads to clean out the dirt.

Chasing the threads from the back side of that hole with the engine in the bronco was a lot of fun. But it's the perfect place to mount the negative cable.

O/D - I used the switch that Duffy used... https://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/ They are sold at Summit racing, highly recommend the plug for the back with pigtails rather than soldering to the terminals directly

I found this button that comes laser etched with "O/D" and includes a pigtail for $20. Seems like a good option?

 

[904Bronco]

Chasing the threads from the back side of that hole with the engine in the bronco was a lot of fun. But it's the perfect place to mount the negative cable.


I found this button that comes laser etched with "O/D" and includes a pigtail for $20. Seems like a good option?

As long as its appearance works for you and it is momentary, it should be fine.

 

[Cooter_76]

Shifting attention to the firewall harness. This is where I could use some real specific (dumbed-down) guidance.

OBD II port - needs to be grounded (simple enough)

Ignition wires
- Hot in start only
- Hot in start AND run
I know I need to tie these in at the ignition switch, but I'm not sure which terminal each needs to be connected to, and how (specifically) the wires get attached. I'm also unsure if how I connect these wires has any impact on whether or not I need a starter relay/solenoid with an "I" terminal. Here's a pic of the back of my switch for reference:

Overdrive wires
- Light - needs hot in run on other side of light
- Momentary switch - needs hot in run on other side of switch

Check engine light - needs hot in run on other side of light

Inertia switch
- Run wire in firewall harness to switch
- Need to run a new wire from the switch to the fuel pump

Brake switch - Needs hot when brakes are pressed
I assume I need to tap into one side of this switch on the brake pedal, but I'm not sure which side, or how/where to make the connection.

Reverse light - Needs hot in run, plus a 10 amp fuse.

Gauges
- Tachometer signal wire - run to tach gauge
- Coolant temp wire - run to temp gauge
- Oil pressure wire - run to pressure gauge
- Volt meter gauge - Since I had Classy Gauges add this when they refurbished the cluster, I need to run a 12V "hot in run" wire to one side of the gauge, and ground the other side. I've read that people recommend tapping-into the 12V side of the cluster's voltage regulator, and have seen pics of regulators with two spade connectors on the 12V side. Mine only has one connector on this side.

Including the volt meter, I have 5 separate wires that need "hot in run." How and where should I connect these? The center post on the ignition switch?

 

[904Bronco]

Volt meter - I have had to add the second wire to the circuit that feeds the voltage reg for the instrument cluster. I add a ground wire to the cluster and ground the volt gauge to that point.

Starter relay "I" terminal is not going to be used again with Explorer EFI.

Brake switch - need a test light, one side will be hot all the time. Signal wire goes to the other one that has power only when brake pedal is pushed. Don't use a scotch lock connector.

Inertia switch - is main power for fuel pump. Do overkill and use 14 gauge wire from switch to pump. (Same size wire for ground) Feed to inertia switch should be at least that size in Explorer harness. If inertia switch is in the Engine compartment (???) then it should be mounted to a solid surface, free of vibration and protected from the elements.

All of the harnesses I have dealt with have been aftermarket, so I am of little help with factory wiring diagram. But easy to figure out with a test light. Main power in, start wire, accessory power, and power in start/run. The wire in your diagram (purple) is for the brake light switch, separate from the main large wire plug. Most of the things (5) you listed need minimal (amps) power, an 18g wire would be sufficient. Many ways you can do this... easiest world be tap into appropriate wire, run that to a protected terminal block. Run your wires from that point.

 

[Cooter_76]

Volt meter - I have had to add the second wire to the circuit that feeds the voltage reg for the instrument cluster. I add a ground wire to the cluster and ground the volt gauge to that point.

Gotcha

Starter relay "I" terminal is not going to be used again with Explorer EFI.

Good!

Brake switch - need a test light, one side will be hot all the time. Signal wire goes to the other one that has power only when brake pedal is pushed. Don't use a scotch lock connector.

But I have a package full of scotch locks that are begging to be used! ;D

Inertia switch - is main power for fuel pump. Do overkill and use 14 gauge wire from switch to pump. (Same size wire for ground) Feed to inertia switch should be at least that size in Explorer harness. If inertia switch is in the Engine compartment (???) then it should be mounted to a solid surface, free of vibration and protected from the elements.

I'm planning to mount the inertia switch on the driver side kick panel.

All of the harnesses I have dealt with have been aftermarket, so I am of little help with factory wiring diagram. But easy to figure out with a test light. Main power in, start wire, accessory power, and power in start/run. The wire in your diagram (purple) is for the brake light switch, separate from the main large wire plug. Most of the things (5) you listed need minimal (amps) power, an 18g wire would be sufficient. Many ways you can do this... easiest world be tap into appropriate wire, run that to a protected terminal block. Run your wires from that point.

I haven't hooked-up the battery yet, for fear of frying something. Guess I'll need to do that soon.

Thanks!

 

[Bruners4]

If you put a turn signal bulb in-line with the negative battery cable and the battery terminal, it acts as a current limiter to avoid causing damage to the wiring and switches if there is a dead short. With everything turned off, the bulb should not be lit. No current flow = no light. When something is turned on, current will flow and the bulb with light up but nothing else will get damaged as the bulb limits the current in the circuit.
I use this same technique when looking for a parasitic current draw when everything is turned off.

 

[Cooter_76]

If you put a turn signal bulb in-line with the negative battery cable and the battery terminal, it acts as a current limiter to avoid causing damage to the wiring and switches if there is a dead short. With everything turned off, the bulb should not be lit. No current flow = no light. When something is turned on, current will flow and the bulb with light up but nothing else will get damaged as the bulb limits the current in the circuit.
I use this same technique when looking for a parasitic current draw when everything is turned off.

Great idea. Thanks!

 

[my77bronco]

I’m glad this is an ongoing current post as I am going to look at a 97 explorer tomorrow with front differential damage good runner they say. 500$. Planning on replacing my 302 and 435 in my 77 bronco. Good threads and pictures here.

 

[Cooter_76]

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!

https://youtu.be/DzqDa4p23nw

I've been chipping-away at the wiring under the dash for the last couple of weeks. I still have a lot of little stuff to do, but this was a big milestone.

- Neutral safety switch must need to be adjusted. I had to pull the shifter down into halfway between reverse and neutral to get it to crank. Then it fired right up!
- Have several power steering leaks to address
- Need to install a coolant overflow tank
- The oil pressure gauge was pegged immediately. I'm using the Explorer sender. Wondering if I need a Bronco sender?

Giggity, giggity!

 

[jbawall]

Congratulations! Isn’t that the best feeling when after all that work it fires right up!
I used my old bronco oil pressure sender and it works good. I would imagine that is what you need to communicate with the stock oil pressure gauge, but I am no expert!

 

[Bruners4]

F'nA! That is great to hear. Can't wait for the driving video!

 

[wsager]

Awesome! Thanks for the detailed write up.

 

[904Bronco]

Well Done Sir

 

[Cooter_76]

Well Done Sir

Thanks again for all your help!

 

[Rocko1012]

used both temp sender and oil pressure sender for 77 Bronco for 97 explorer swap with stock gauges, both work great.