Crate motor, used 5.0 liter, few questions, Edited and updated info

[DonsBolt]

I am thinking of freshining up my motor, but every local engine builder wants around $2500 to freshen my motor up. For that price it still wouldn't be a roller motor, so I am thinking about getting a Ford Racing 5.0 crate motor M-6007-B50
I can pick one up for $2900.00 which seems like a great price. Though if anyone knows of a place I can get it cheeper I am open to getting it somewhere else.

So if anyone is running this motor with a 4 barrel cerb how do you like it, and what will I have to chage on it to fit in my bronco.

Waterpump
Distributor?
Harmonic Ballancer?
Flywheel?

Any other issues I should be aware of if I doo this swap, and if you have any other sugestions on crate motors I am all ears.

 

[Grunt1058]

I picked up a rolled 74 with a Ford Racing Crate 5.0L Roller motor. It's got <30K miles on it and I'm selling it for $1500.00. Can get you in touch with the PO of the engine. He's still an active participant on my local BB in my sig.

Great wealth of knowledge on this engine. And, it was setup with an Edelbrock Performer 289 and 600 CFM carb. Someone stole my carb from the shop but, I still have the intake and a Carter 600 CFM carb I'll let go with it for the same price. Was asking $100 for the intake and $150 for the Carter.

Only thing... This is a 3 or 4 year old engine and was pre-aluminum heads. HP should be in the 285/290 HP range for this model.

Let me know...

 

[Grunt1058]

Also, the rollover was a 360° roll. The Bronco landed on it's tires so it didn't run upside down for more then a few micro seconds...

 

[DonsBolt]

Grunt
If we were closer I would jump all over that motor.

Let me think about it

 

[bob_lafrentz]

$2500 for a "freshened up" motor is WAY too much!! I just had a 5.0 rebuilt. All new parts and quality parts by a very reputable engine rebuilder in CA for $1800. I know you can get the same stuff done a little cheaper by someone else, but I prefer to pay for customer service.

I would say look around a little. I think if you find a good engine rebuilder, you will end up with a better motor in the end and it won't cost as much. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Grunt1058]

$2500 for a "freshened up" motor is WAY too much!! I just had a 5.0 rebuilt. All new parts and quality parts by a very reputable engine rebuilder in CA for $1800. I know you can get the same stuff done a little cheaper by someone else, but I prefer to pay for customer service.

I would say look around a little. I think if you find a good engine rebuilder, you will end up with a better motor in the end and it won't cost as much. Just my 2 cents.

I have to agree with that.

Though, I paid $2500 for my 351W to be rebuilt. It's not a freshed up motor. It's a hot motor pumping over 300 HP and screams like a raped eagle now. I still need to get it on the Dyno to verify #s though. ;D

As far as the 5.0L goes... If you have a forward air terminal in your area, and a truck, I can get the engine to you cheaper then any other carrier.

 

[ken75ranger]

Don, your not so far away from me that this wouldn't be worth looking at. It's from a thread I did a little while ago. It's the shop that did my rotating assembly.

It's right in Albany. Good guys. I checked with a few friends and they are the only local shop that has a good rep with everyone. If you want a short block 302 rebuilt with 30 over pistons he has them in stock for around $675 with good pistons. He doesn't use no name parts. I was looking at stroking it to 347 with an eagle kit for 1800. That's about 1200 for the kit and 600 to assemble and any balancing needed.
Universal Auto
900 Broadway
Albany, NY 12207
800-422-0303

$675 for the motor plus a g-note for your favorite heads, 500 for a roller valvetrain and you'll be ahead of the game.
As far as accessories you can run what you have. I have the part numbers for a balancer that will work. If you have an auto tranny I have a number for the flexplate too.

 

[shifter]

Don, you might check out the 6009-b50 shortblock. it is a roller and can be had for about $1200. Rebuild your heads or get a nice set of aluminum high flow heads for under $1000. Mine with y-303 gt-40 64cc heads is about 9.2 to 1 compression and runs very well. I was impressed with the quality and smoothness of the ford crate engines for the money. I dont have time to build bottom ends anymore, sometimes time is money! They also have a nice 347 shortblock, isnt christmas coming up?

 

[num]

Don, your not so far away from me that this wouldn't be worth looking at. It's from a thread I did a little while ago. It's the shop that did my rotating assembly.

It's right in Albany. Good guys. I checked with a few friends and they are the only local shop that has a good rep with everyone. If you want a short block 302 rebuilt with 30 over pistons he has them in stock for around $675 with good pistons. He doesn't use no name parts. I was looking at stroking it to 347 with an eagle kit for 1800. That's about 1200 for the kit and 600 to assemble and any balancing needed.
Universal Auto
900 Broadway
Albany, NY 12207
800-422-0303

$675 for the motor plus a g-note for your favorite heads, 500 for a roller valvetrain and you'll be ahead of the game.
As far as accessories you can run what you have. I have the part numbers for a balancer that will work. If you have an auto tranny I have a number for the flexplate too.

Wow, this is one hit home just a little bit for me. I have a Universal Auto rebuilt chevy 350 long-block in my Jeep. I did the swap myself and if I remember correctly, I paid around $1200 w/core for a well-done roller motor rebuild. I've put a couple years on that motor already with some good hardcore offroading and haven't had a single problem... except destroying two 1310 yokes on the dana60 with all the new found power until I went 1410.

I'd say it's worth a trip to the Albany to snag a decent rebuild. They always seemed to have had specials going all the time there. Used to go there for driveshaft work before finding a cheaper place off railroad ave in albany.

Clean work and OK warranty on their part.

 

[DonsBolt]

Here is a little update
I have talked to a few of my racing buddies, and now have a few options to replace my motor.

Here are some of the options

oprtion 1- 88 Mustang GT motor with 44,000 miles, complete for $500
95 Mustang GT Motor around 90,000 long block also around $500

Option 2- 331 Longblock- Probe flat top pistons, H beam rods, main girdle, F303 cam, GT40 Iron heads, ARP head bolts, Ford/Crane pedestal mount 1.7 roller rockers, Ford hyd. roller lifters, Melling timing chain and gears, timing cover, new water pump with around 1000 miles for around $2000

Option 3- There is a guy who has a DSS 331 and a built 306 still negotiating on prices, hehe

Option 4- I may have found a new engine builder about a hour away who can build me a engine for just under $3000. I have only talked to them by phone so far, but they are highlly recomended by a bunch of my SVT friends. They have a full machine shop, a engine dyno, and a dyno jet. I am going to visit them this week and tour there shop

Here is what the speced out for me. 5.0 roller motor that they tell me will make 420hp and 430 ft/tq depending on headers/intake/carb/etc.The compression ratio is 9:5 to 1, Bored .030 over, Coated hyper pistons, double roller timing chain, PBM full 1.6 roller rockers, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads with after market springs and a roller TFS roller cam or an Engle roller. The block will be decked, squared, bored, and honed with deck plates, also The crank, the rods are magnafluxed. It would come with my choice of oil pans, valve covers and either a 50 oz or a 28oz ballancer, all I will need is a intake and distributor.

I don't know a lot about the Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads, but he says those are why his engines make the power. I doubt the way I set it up will give me 420HP, but I am sure I can get it to rum in the mid 300 HP range. So hopefully the tour of the shop will make me feel confident in there shop, but it sounds like a good deal.

So now I have to decide if I want to go cheep and buy a stock mustang motor, or spend the extra money and get a built motor.????????????????

 

[trailpsycho]

Summit sells a TFS (Trick Flow Systems) setup that includes: heads, EFI intakes (upper/lower), matched cam, roller timing set, rockers, seals...just about everything but the electronics to make a small block (you will need some stock lifters) pretty beefy @ 350 HP and 370 ft/lbs using a 70 mm TB and MAF. They have them in aluminum or black (intakes) for about $2100. If I had an unlimited budget; its what I would do....well and maybe a little tweaky-tweaky in the bottom end (unlimited budget). BUt it will provide a powerful and long-lasting powerplant. Just an FYI. There are 4 systems like this for 5.0 two street-heat (aluminum and black finish) and two track-heat (same--alum & blk)...the street would be for better low end the track is more for high end...just to make sure you find/order the right one.

 

[shifter]

Here is what the speced out for me. 5.0 roller motor that they tell me will make 420hp and 430 ft/tq depending on headers/intake/carb/etc.

Those are some pretty high numbers they are qouting you there, I know some mustang guys that would love to have that with 5 liters. Not saying it cant be done but it might not work well in an offroad rig, the cam would have to be pretty wild and low end torque and drivability will really suffer. Vacuum for your brakes is something else to think about.

 

[DonsBolt]

Here is what the speced out for me. 5.0 roller motor that they tell me will make 420hp and 430 ft/tq depending on headers/intake/carb/etc.

Those are some pretty high numbers they are qouting you there, I know some mustang guys that would love to have that with 5 liters. Not saying it cant be done but it might not work well in an offroad rig, the cam would have to be pretty wild and low end torque and drivability will really suffer. Vacuum for your brakes is something else to think about.

Hehe
Ya I know, I am heading over to visit his shop in a few minutes. In reality I really only want 300-350 HP so I will most likelly ask him to keep the compresion to 9:0 to 1 and go for a torquier cam. Also with my performer 281 intake and at most a 650 carb it should reduce the HP and make it a torquier motor.

I might even go for a 351, as the price is about the same. Since I plan on going with a 1 inch body lift I should have room for it.

I will let you know how the tour went when I get homne tonight

Don

 

[shifter]

I agree 300 - 350hp is a realistic goal, too bad you cant stuff that lightning engine in there!

 

[rmfreeze]

...too bad you cant stuff that lightning engine in there!

Like this one?

That one is going back in my Lightning and not in my Bronco. It's also getting a turbo this go around and not a supercharger.

 

[DonsBolt]

Holly bling

That will be fun to keep clean

 

[rmfreeze]

I know. I started out to just put polished covers on it and ended up with that. I plan on polishing the custom intake back to the turbo as well and then coat the hot side in black.

 

[76 bronco J]

the B cam motor may not be good for the bronco, right now I'm running the m6007b51 with the E cam- on the topend I have a weber 500cfm,1 inch phenolic resin spacer on a performer 289 manifold-exhaust is Jet Hot long tube heddmans with 2 inch duals- the motor runs excellent however the cam is touchy about timing & you can only get about 16 pounds of vaccum idling at about 900 rpms with 16 degree intial timing-these crate motors are definetly setup more for mustang usage - this would probably be good with your standard but with automatics it get pretty rumbly in gear with 11 to 12 pounds of vaccum- I noticed ford approves the E cam emission legal only with the 5 speeds- I still do have excellent throttle responce which I think the 500 helped and can lug the motor severly with it dieing - I may be choking the motor up on the topend with the carb & exhaust but it pulls hard all the way to the rev limiter at 5,500 rpms- I like the motor but think the explorer cam in the B50 shortblock would be the better choice except then aluminum heads would probably be overkill except for the weight factor - extra bonus with these engines is the explorer dress is started for you which is one of the best changes I have made-you get more way room with aluminum brackets ,harmonic balancer/pulley with no bolts or spacer BS ,130 amp alternator,modern remote resevoir power steering pump,plus there is no spacers or bolts rigged up through the water pump bolts like the stock setup- for the oil pan get the newer smooth rail part #M-6675-A50 - this pan accepts the one piece gasket better and you can use the modern stiffing rails on each side of the pan- this pan can only be used with 83-01 blocks because it comes in through a hole in the block on the drivers side- this did require some bending around the headers but this pan seals way better than my old one did- on these motors make sure you change out the oil pump drive shaft if not running the TFI fuel injection distributor or the explorer sensor thing that goes there-

 

[DonsBolt]

Well after what mother nature gave us today, looks like I have nime to build the pefect motor.

I like my rust free body and want to keep it that way, I ,ight drive it to get some work done, but only if the roads are clear for a few day. So she is pretty much parked for a while. Here is a pic I just took of my Ballcony a little bit ago.

 

[Hallz]

That sounds high!

My buddy Sean works for HCI here in Sac and has been building preity Stout SB fords, you may give him a call and see what he says and how much to build and ship you something.

here is a quick article he did about his girlfriends new motor.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2005/10/BuildersNotebook/index.php

Sean @ HCI tell him Mike "HallZ" referred you. (He is kinda odd & cockymind you) but has built proven & strong motors.
HCI Motorsports
5112 Bailey Loop
McClellan CA 95652
(916) 643-2291



Either that or buy a crate short block, Probaly the best route IMO.