Custom Driveline Options?

[SaddleUp]

I know I have seen a number of posts on this subject but I'm not turning up much that is useful. This post i mainly for those that have had problems with drivelines being broken. Essentially my problem is that my rear driveline is at 22 degrees which is pushing the limits of the stock CV joint. (I broke the third one last weekend) Before I run out and get another I want to know who others with similar problems went to and what your experiences were with them. Did they fix the problem? How much did it cost? I have no intention of spending $400 or $500 to fix this. Before I do that I'll buy 3 or 4 Big Bronco drivleines and cut them down to carry as spares. I want to see if there is an option to fix this right though at a reasonable price first though.

 

[Steve]

Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts in SLC, Utah. They can make you a custom CV driveshaft, and they have CVs with up to 40* of travel. I have his shafts front and rear on mine and have never had a problem. Not sure which CV you'd need, so not sure of cost, but for reference mine were ~$250 each.

 

[Gummi Bear]

I'd talk to Jesse at High Angle. I've never heard an ill word spoken about him, or his work.

http://www.highangledriveline.com/default.htm

 

[swa0330]

While we're all it it, how many inches of spline to you guys have sticking out and how many inches of travel do you need?

 

[Steve]

While we're all it it, how many inches of spline to you guys have sticking out and how many inches of travel do you need?

How much you need depends on the amount of suspension travel you have and the type of wheeling you do. When mine's sitting on level ground there is 2-3" of splines visible. When I had Tom Woods make my shafts I opted to pay more for extra long splines so that I never have to worry about that problem since I have a LOT of travel in my suspension.

I can do stuff like this and not worry about driveline angles or my driveshaft coming apart at the splines:

 

[swa0330]

I have the standard 35" tire lift combo and the CAGE setup. Plan on wheeling about where you are in that photo, not too much more extreme than that. How much forward travel do you have in your driveshaft. How much do you need?

 

[Steve]

I've never really gotten out to look at the shafts when I have it flexed out a lot. Typical drive shafts have 5-6" of travel at the splines. I paid extra to have mine built with 12" of travel at the splines. Probably overkill, but I didn't want to ever have one come apart at the splines. To me the extra $ was worth it to never have to worry about that.

 

[swa0330]

Just wondering because I have 3.75" showing and I think that WH f.ucked the lengths up. Actually, not them just the shop they use. I may have to get this dealt with soon. I have 3" of travel left before the driveshaft comes out. What's your opinion on that?

 

[Steve]

I have 3" of travel left before the driveshaft comes out. What's your opinion on that?

My opinion is that that's a bad thing that's just a problem waiting to bite you on the trail.

 

[Gummi Bear]

Just wondering because I have 3.75" showing and I think that WH f.ucked the lengths up. Actually, not them just the shop they use. I may have to get this dealt with soon. I have 3" of travel left before the driveshaft comes out. What's your opinion on that?

I've yet to pull my driveshaft apart, and it's a stock unit, that's just re-tubed.

I don't have ungodly amounts of flex, but it makes me wonder just how much spline I really need.

As much as I lust after the high zoot High Angle and Tom Woods driveshafts, I'll probably just have some made locally at Inland Truck Parts to my spec.

 

[broncow72]

http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/Drive_shaft_high_angle_and_long_splines.htm

I will still recommend these guys. Even though they are the ones I was refering to in another pissy post. I will say they have stepped up to the plate after my issue with them.
Although I also agree with Gummi, Next time I will find a local shop for the convenience of just that...LOCAL. If there's an issue, I can go there in person.
Good luck

 

[SaddleUp]

Just wondering because I have 3.75" showing and I think that WH f.ucked the lengths up. Actually, not them just the shop they use. I may have to get this dealt with soon. I have 3" of travel left before the driveshaft comes out. What's your opinion on that?

As long as you don't jump it and it is a rear driveline you will never have a problem with 3". Normally the rear drivelines (even with a lift) don't travel more than a couple of inches. If you are worried about it you can put a limiting strap in the center of the rearend. This will not hurt articulation any. It simply keeps the back from bouncing up where it will extend more. Using the strap also helps keep from running past the operating angle of the CV.

 

[samjaxfl]

A little off subject but how much will a front shaft move (5.5 suspension lift Tom‘s old style arms no body lift) Mine has about 4 inches?

I just purchased new front and rear shafts from DSSS and due to my own mis-measurement had to have it lengthened by them( very accommodating). When I received I, it was too short, probably my own fault again so had it shorted locally.

With my truck hanging on frame only from a rack I cannot connect the U joint on my d44 because it hangs lower than my new high angle drive shaft will accept.

Is this normal or do I need to get another one again with a longer slip joint?

 

[GoFastCrackPipe]

With my truck hanging on frame only from a rack I cannot connect the U joint on my d44 because it hangs lower than my new high angle drive shaft will accept.

Is this normal or do I need to get another one again with a longer slip joint?

I have the same issue. The problem is that the CV angle is maxed out before the travel of the front axle causing the CV to bind up. The only way I have found to fix this is by extending the driveshaft by moving the transfer case back (like with a doubler setup) or by switching to a high pinion front axle, or both. Until I figure out what exactly I'm going to do with mine, I have the front drivers side suspension flex limited with a strap.

 

[SaddleUp]

I have the same issue. The problem is that the CV angle is maxed out before the travel of the front axle causing the CV to bind up. The only way I have found to fix this is by extending the driveshaft by moving the transfer case back (like with a doubler setup) or by switching to a high pinion front axle, or both. Until I figure out what exactly I'm going to do with mine, I have the front drivers side suspension flex limited with a strap.

Dan, Next time I get a chance we need to look at yours closer to make sure he clearanced the CV joint before he put it together. If not we may be able to squeeze another 5 or 10 degrees out of it. Or you could probably call him and ask. We discussed it a bit when I was talking to him about my options. The right way to fix yours woud be to rotate the knuckles on the frontend housing but there isn't much sense in doing that with your plans. (Unless you decide to stick with the Dana 44) If you stick with the D44 then you could still do it but make the amount match up to what the longer drivetrain comes out to.

Thanks to all above for the suggestions. After reviewing my options none of the places could offer me anything that gave me any substantial strength increase without upgrading to a modified 1350 CV (Larger center pin with no bearings that is pretty much only good for off road use and isn't serviceable). The norma 1310, 1330, and 1350 cv's all have the same size center pin which is what I had issues with. I think I've solved the binding now and therefore that should fix it. I rebuilt the last CV driveline (It just had a loose ball) and got a partial kit driveline locally for $130 and made a spare one as well. Total cost was less than $150 and I now have a spare.

 

[jmaples]

Front drivshaft bind

I have the same issue. The problem is that the CV angle is maxed out before the travel of the front axle causing the CV to bind up. The only way I have found to fix this is by extending the driveshaft by moving the transfer case back (like with a doubler setup) or by switching to a high pinion front axle, or both. Until I figure out what exactly I'm going to do with mine, I have the front drivers side suspension flex limited with a strap.

I got rid of the cv in the front and got a prem long travel with ujoints from Tom woods. I also got a new yoke for the tcase. No more bind. $299.00 or so.
Jmaples

 

[SaddleUp]

I got rid of the cv in the front and got a prem long travel with ujoints from Tom woods. I also got a new yoke for the tcase. No more bind. $299.00 or so.
Jmaples

I was going to suggest this as a possible option as well. A regular u-joint can be run at a higher angle than a CV can and is probably actually closer to being correct considering the angle Dan has on his frontend now. He just spent $300 or more on the driveline he has now though so I'm not sure if he wants to go and spend the money for another right away. He's also planning to change out his drivetrain in the near future so he may just want to let it be until he does that.

 

[samjaxfl]

Saddleup, I realize your response was for someone else but would you suggest the same for me?
My issue with this fix would be with my transmission bracket. Its just below my C/V joint on the front of my 3550 and would cause an issue with the bracket. Your response is appreciated. Thanks

 

[SaddleUp]

Saddleup, I realize your response was for someone else but would you suggest the same for me?
My issue with this fix would be with my transmission bracket. Its just below my C/V joint on the front of my 3550 and would cause an issue with the bracket. Your response is appreciated. Thanks

It's hard to say for sure. If you run regular u-joints then the angles on both ends should be parellel to each other. For the frontend where it isn't run as often it isn't as critical as the rear is. Keep in mind that the main reason for a CV is that it is better at smoothing out and eliminating driveline vibrations. It also allows one end to be pointed directly at the other which can make it work where a regular one wouldn't. That is why my first suggestion as to the right way to fix it is rotating the knuckles. Doing so would make it last longer than a regular one. The suggestion Jason made above in many cases may actually be the most cost effective way for many to do the front though since the frontend tends to end up almost parellel with the t-case anyway after they have been lifted and caster added to them. (It may eliminate the need to rotate the knuckles and in your case help get around tranny mount issues) Also keep in mind that very few of us actually run the frontend at the right angles for the driveline. Most of us compromise by getting the castor so it works well on the street and just run the driveline wherever it ends up. Usually this isn't an issue in front since the frontend seldom sees the same use as the back does. (At slow speeds the front driveline can live for a long time with a bad angle as long as it doesn't bind)

 

[num]

jumping in late on this thread...

I have Jess' 1350 CV shaved for a good drop. Totally eliminates drive-vibe.

It's been working bomber for a few months and a bunch of trails, but another axle-wrap issue has developed. I have yet to bind the actual CV joint, but I've DESTROYED 3 axle-end ujoints. My driveshaft is currently hanging on my bronco right now until I figure out why exactly my rear axle is wrapping like heck. Either way, it's cheaper to carry around a stack of axle-end ujoints and I have yet to see a deformed 1350 yoke as a result of my beating. If the CV were to break often, that would be an issue to resolve. Jess at highangle puts together a 32* 1350 CV for a decent price. He offers a 42* option as others do as well, but I would question the maximum RPM for that shaft even now. Still seems like a grey area. Friend of mine got Jess' 42* CV for the front of his beast 70s highboy ford running a d60 front, 44" tires, high gears, and fresh 460. It was perfectly stable on the highway and romping on the trail, but I would still question how much it could be trusted. It's also a considerable investment.

Have you ruled out trying to limit the center drop of the rear axle? It might be something to consider hoping it won't combat articulation in your case.

Anyway, see what Jess and Tom Woods have for shaft seeing as I have bought shafts from both. Great stuff - decent price - and cater to applications such as yours.

best of luck!