D20 issues

[jmangi62]

Hey guys,as some of you may know I just completed my 5yr restomod project 70. Well here's the thing,while driving the beast,all of a sudden out of nowhere,the twin stick lever for the rear axle(right lever), snaps into "n". So I have to stop,shift the lever back to "H" then continue on my way. Is there something I can do to tighten the lever so it stays in gear? It's a nv3500 and a twin stick D20 T style,not the S. Everything is new and freshly rebuilt or brand new. Ideas? I'll check in later,got some Sunday errands to do, lol;D Thanks guys. Jim ?:?

 

[Jebus]

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/dentent_spring/Bronco_Dana20_Transfer_Case

 

[Steve83]

The diagram & pics in this album show how it's put together:

(phone app link)


If it's not the pills, it might be the bearings for one of the cluster gears.

 

[jmangi62]

Thanks guys. Jebus l will check into this kit. Thanks.

 

[JB Fab]

If the rear is popping into neutral, the most likely reason is excessive endplay in the rear output shaft. The rebuild instructions have a measurement for endplay, but that is based on stock drivelines with stock angles. Any vibration from the driveline will cause the output shaft to vibrate in an elliptical pattern and the sliding gear to walk-off the output shaft into the neutral position. The transfer case should stay in the selected gear regardless if it has a shifter on it or not. By locking a shifter into position with a strap or a bungee causes the sliding gear to run in contact, under pressure against the shift fork. When I set up the rear output I use 5inlbs preload in the output. And run 50wt MT-1 rated lube.. Most people don’t understand that 90wt gear oil is should not be used in a D20 due to the moly-disulfate pressure additives in hypoid gear oil attack the bronze thrust washers on the idler gear.

Jon

 

[tabyers]

And run 50wt MT-1 rated lube.. Most people don’t understand that 90wt gear oil is should not be used in a D20 due to the moly-disulfate pressure additives in hypoid gear oil attack the bronze thrust washers on the idler gear.



Jon

What, specifically, do you run in yours? If you don’t mind sharing. Thanks

Also, the adjustable detents were a nice addition for me because one seemed loose and one seemed tight. But I’d definitely take a look at the preload too if that sounded familiar to your process.

 

[jmangi62]

Thanks Jon. I'm running your twin stick setup,which I love by the way. Best shifters for the D20. Thanks again.

 

[JB Fab]

I usually use Lucas:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MInKPKsKb15QIVQiCtBh3pTQZQEAQYASABEgKfePD_BwE

But the full synthetic makes the D20 kind of noisy since it flows so well.




Next time I will use a conventional 50wt like this:
https://www.napaonline.com/p/VME329

Don't use 50wt motor oil, it has detergents to suspend contaminants so they get filtered out, the 50wt transmissions lubes allow the contaminants to settle down to the bottom.

Jon

 

[jmangi62]

I usually use Lucas:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MInKPKsKb15QIVQiCtBh3pTQZQEAQYASABEgKfePD_BwE

But the full synthetic makes the D20 kind of noisy since it flows so well.




Next time I will use a conventional 50wt like this:
https://www.napaonline.com/p/VME329

Don't use 50wt motor oil, it has detergents to suspend contaminants so they get filtered out, the 50wt transmissions lubes allow the contaminants to settle down to the bottom.

Jon

Thanks again Jon, valuable info I will adhere to. Jim

 

[Lawndart]

Just to check -
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2771446&postcount=2

 

[JB Fab]

Just to check -
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2771446&postcount=2

^^^^^^
Absolutely the first thing to check! Take off the boot so you can see what is happening.