Dana 30 Rebuild: Outer Axle Seal removal

[sneditch]

Replacing axle seals on Dana 30 on my '69 Sport. I expected the "outer seal" to be between the axle stub and the spindle so a bit surprised to find these (image 38 is driver side, image 68 passenger) installed in the carrier tube ends. I googled the C/R 519034 and Trostel 124-5.25 and came up with references to Ford axle seal C6TZ3254B. I assume I am on the right track to replace them using these outer housing seals (http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/dana30_Outer_Housing_Seal/Bronco_Dana30)



To remove the old ones I am intending to use a seal puller and if that doesn't work then use a large socket on the end of a long extension to tap it out from the carrier side. Before doing either thought I would check with the brain trust here.

Also have a question on the appearance of rust in the carrier, including on the bearing seat, under the bearing caps, etc. (img 54, 22) I am concerned not to alter the bearing seats, cap seats, etc., but assume I need to clean this/kill rust to avoid any issues. Can I use rust remover, scrape lightly with brass brush, then coat with gear oil? Any other suggestions to clean or should leave it be and not risk altering the bearing seats, etc?


Thanks

Sned

 

[DirtDonk]

That's some pretty robust looking rust ya got there. I know it doesn't take much moisture to do damage, but looks like yours might have had it's fair share.

Is the rusty area as bad/solid as it looks, or is that more of a rusty slurry of oil, water and rust that's just sitting on the machined surface? If you've already wiped it the best you can, then I'm not sure what the next step is.
You're correct to be careful about machined surfaces, but not sure how critical that specific one is. Someone will see the pics and let you know though.

I would say your standard seal puller is going to work. Never heard of anyone really having to cuss and pull hair over one of the outer seals. But hey, maybe you can be the first!

Good luck.

Paul

 

[sneditch]

That's some pretty robust looking rust ya got there. I know it doesn't take much moisture to do damage, but looks like yours might have had it's fair share.

Is the rusty area as bad/solid as it looks, or is that more of a rusty slurry of oil, water and rust that's just sitting on the machined surface?

Hi Paul,

Here are some addtl pics. Its stuck on the surfaces fairly well. I hit lightly with a brass brush and I have lightly cleaned it and surrounding areas using mineral spirits and a thin layer of gear oil. Everything clean enough I suspect - significantly better than it was and hell its a Dana 30 so if I have to replace at a later time I know what I can upgrade to I guess. I am close to getting the remaining replacement parts, cleaning up existing, etc., and getting ready to start reassembly.

One question that comes to mind - is there a preferred state of the Dana 30 before putting it back under the truck? I.E is it more convenient to fully build it out including new disc brakes before installing or easier to get to some midway build out - i.e seals axles, gears in, cover on, and then in place to connect radius arms, etc., without brakes hanging on the ends?

Maybe a stupid question but I am in all new territory so any insights are greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Shon

 

[Skiddy]

Replacing axle seals on Dana 30 on my '69 Sport. I expected the "outer seal" to be between the axle stub and the spindle so a bit surprised to find these (image 38 is driver side, image 68 passenger) installed in the carrier tube ends. I googled the C/R 519034 and Trostel 124-5.25 and came up with references to Ford axle seal C6TZ3254B. I assume I am on the right track to replace them using these outer housing seals (http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/dana30_Outer_Housing_Seal/Bronco_Dana30)



To remove the old ones I am intending to use a seal puller and if that doesn't work then use a large socket on the end of a long extension to tap it out from the carrier side. Before doing either thought I would check with the brain trust here.

Also have a question on the appearance of rust in the carrier, including on the bearing seat, under the bearing caps, etc. (img 54, 22) I am concerned not to alter the bearing seats, cap seats, etc., but assume I need to clean this/kill rust to avoid any issues. Can I use rust remover, scrape lightly with brass brush, then coat with gear oil? Any other suggestions to clean or should leave it be and not risk altering the bearing seats, etc?


Thanks

Sned

I would be more concerned with the crack in pic one

 

[DirtDonk]

Upper right quadrant? Looks like it might be a ridge, rather than a crack maybe?
Hope so anyway!

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

...One question that comes to mind - is there a preferred state of the Dana 30 before putting it back under the truck? I.E is it more convenient to fully build it out including new disc brakes before installing or easier to get to some midway build out - i.e seals axles, gears in, cover on, and then in place to connect radius arms, etc., without brakes hanging on the ends?

Probably only someone that has done it multiple times would have a suggestion there. I don't think there's a hard-and-fast rule for us casual types. Often it's easier to work on when connected to the vehicle just to get the torques on fasteners, but if you've got a good fixture holding things steady (even if it's just sitting on jackstands but very steady) then the only reason I can think of to put it in first is to avoid having to maneuver the added weight around of a fully loaded front end.

So bottom line, it's up to your common sense until someone chimes in with a definitive answer. You're doing so good so far though, I think that whichever way you work it will be the best at the time.;D

Paul

 

[pcf_mark]

If you are working by yourself with a jack and jack stands I would leave the brakes off to reduce the awkwardness. That helps reduce the weight and the ends making it easier to manage.

 

[sneditch]

Thanks for looking out @Skiddy. I've reattached the pic I think you are referring and identified "the scratch" as I like to refer to it. I was using a pic to clean around the seal and inadvertently scratched that area. Hopefully this is what you are referring. If not please let me know. Appreciate you taking the time to provide info.

@dirtdonk, @pcf_mark - thanks for the insight as well. I was thinking to hold off on brakes until I get it under the truck. Will post as I go to and see how it works out.


cheers!

 

[Skiddy]

Thanks for looking out @Skiddy. I've reattached the pic I think you are referring and identified "the scratch" as I like to refer to it. I was using a pic to clean around the seal and inadvertently scratched that area. Hopefully this is what you are referring. If not please let me know. Appreciate you taking the time to provide info.

@dirtdonk, @pcf_mark - thanks for the insight as well. I was thinking to hold off on brakes until I get it under the truck. Will post as I go to and see how it works out.


cheers!

I am sure your eyes are better than mine, pics can do goofy things lol. keep up the good work man

 

[DirtDonk]

...I was thinking to hold off on brakes until I get it under the truck.

Thinking about it more, this sounds like a good idea, if only for the final torque on the wheel bearing outer lock nut. It's a minimum of 80 lbs, and should be more into the 100lb range. So that would be pretty awkward to do if the assembly wasn't locked down tight to something.
Like a truck!;D

Paul