Dana 44 ARb Install

[Sevrlyph]

I was reading over the instructions for installing an ARB in a Dana 44 and they talk about using a differential housing spreader. This is a pricey tool to buy for a one time use.

Is it a must have? If not, what are the tricks to not using one and not messing up the install?

 

[JWMcCrary]

Housing spreader is not necessary. Just use enough shims so when your backlash is in specs it takes a little tapping from hammer to get it in. I did mine this way and have not had any problems.

 

[bronko69er]

x2, deadblow hammer only, spreader not necessary.

 

[70_Steve]

I was reading over the instructions for installing an ARB in a Dana 44 and they talk about using a differential housing spreader. This is a pricey tool to buy for a one time use.

Is it a must have? If not, what are the tricks to not using one and not messing up the install?

Here's a good Tech article on how to set up a Dana differential.
http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/

If you use the shim pack thickness calculated when you first start setting up the carrier, you should be able to get the carrier in with a few taps like JWMcCrary says. When you're ready for the final install, and add some shims for the bearing preload, it may take more that a few light taps. I had to wack the crap out of mine with a deadblow hammer. But, it went in.

Also, if you feel the need, I build a case spreader for about $25. It has it's limitations, but it does work.

 

[Broncitis]

I too have heard that a spreader is not usually needed, however, with an ARB install I was told by a very experianced tech from a local shop that it should be used. This is because the way the shims are placed outside of the race on the ARB install. If you tap it in like on a non-ARB setup the shim will get damaged or not go in.

This tech came up to my place and installed an ARB in a customers vehicle I had torn apart and found a blown detroit in while doing some other work. Since it was already apart and on the lift, he did it at my place. I had never done an ARB install and wanted to watch him do it, so it worked out well.

He worked at the largest local 4x4 shop for several years before going back to general repair. He' said he's done hundreds of gear setups and dozens of ARB's.

FWIW,
Drew

 

[bronko69er]

This is because the way the shims are placed outside of the race on the ARB install.

Never heard of this, every carrier I've installed (including ARB's) I've put the shims under the bearings (maybe I'm crazy?). I had a bad experience once where a shop tried to put them outside of the bearings and ended up getting one under the race and bent up in front of the tube and seal. I didnt realize it till the axle shaft wouldn't go in. Messed up the seal too. I prefer them to be under the bearings.

 

[JWMcCrary]

The newer ARB's go outside the bearing, at least that what's I was told and the way my instructions call for. I was able to tap the shims in with the bearing cap.

 

[bronko69er]

Well then, I stand informed

 

[ken75ranger]

The newer ARB's go outside the bearing, at least that what's I was told and the way my instructions call for. I was able to tap the shims in with the bearing cap.

Eaton's E locker is the same way on one side. Eaton told me to put the thick shims to the outside,thin ones toward the race. Worked fine for me on the 2 I've done.
Almost forgot- Ford 8.8's are also shimmed outside the race.

 

[hstock68]

HEY GUYS!
Im looking for a dana 44 front end for my 68 bronco. i live in san diego california and dont know if you guys have herd of anyone trying to get rid of a complete axle. Old, New, Disk, or Drum all ok. thanks

 

[bmc69]

Regarding the shims going on the outside, between carrier bearing and the case..Drew is very correct. First, the outside shims are included in the ARB box for that reason..the ones that would be used betwen bearing and the carrier do not fit anyway (bearing ID larger on the ARB dif than on Dana 44 carrier) AND, if you did place shims between the bearing and the carrier, it wouldn't take many to cause the tiny air supply hole to be misaligned with the slip ring groove where the air passes through. This will leave the ARB with a leak and possibly make it inoperative altogether.

As for the spreader...(I set up a lot of ARBS)...I make two wedges cut from oak and drive them, one on either side, between the carrier main housing surface (opposite the ring gear) and the case. That is a satisfactory way to spread the case and load up the bearing and shims on the opposite side from the wedges and allow the last of the shims to be installed between the other carrier bearing outer race (the side with the slip ring and air tube) and the case itself.

I should take pics the next time I set one up...I mean to every time, but,....%) In any event, every ARB dif I've ever set up is still going strong...some pushing almost 10 years of routine trail abuse.

 

[Broncitis]

In any event, every ARB dif I've ever set up is still going strong...some pushing almost 10 years of routine trail abuse.

Oh, you are so screwed now that you posted that, you'd better go BEAT (not knock) on some wood! :-X ;D

I forgot about the ARB bearing size being totally different as well. Did not know then when the customer got his ARB kit and the local Jeep shop that sold it to him also sold him a standard R&P setup kit which we returned since the ARB came with everthing needed (carrier bearings, shims, etc.)