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Dana 44 - Build or Buy Complete

hsach

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Joined
Apr 19, 2013
Messages
346
I am moving on from the rear end of the '67, waiting to hear back from one vendor, but I will probably order a complete Currie rear with drum brakes.

For the front, it currently has the D30. I bought an empty D44 housing from Wildhorses4x4 years ago with plans to have a local company build it for me. Here are the basics of the bronco build. '67 with a 2/1/2" wildhorses lift, I will install this when I put the front and rear housings in. 1" body lift already installed. I am leaning towards a Blueprint new small block 302/347, if they do the 347 with the new castings. 4R70W trans and the transfer case will remain D20. Gear ratio of 4.56.

This bronco will not see any hard off-road driving, I want as good street manners as possible for this. I know caster is not going to be specific to my bronco since they are all a little different, but I want start in the best place possible since I will be putting in everything new.

I am waiting to hear back from a local place about building the D44, no idea of a cost yet (just heard back, around $2500). They will build it out to the knuckles I provide. I thought local was my only option, but I contacted Tom's Offroad and they have a 44 Mag Dana 44 front end with a low pinion option. Tom's Dana44 I can order it with an open carrier instead of the Power Lock. They also have an option of adding axles and brakes. I have to ask about that since you can't separate those 2 things on the drop down menu. I already have a conversion front disc brake package from Wildhorses so I only need the axles. They also sell new pre-ground knuckles with ball joints installed, I would prefer these over grinding down my drum knuckles.

This option of buying the Dana 44 from Tom's brings up the caster issue, and certainly where I am out of my element. The Tom's Dana 44 comes with 4 degrees of positive caster on the outer C's, and the pinion is rotated up 2 degrees. Since this will be all new, I don't have a starting point on caster and will need to use a best-guess on what degree C bushings I would need with the added in positive caster.

Similar issue with the stock Dana 44 housing build. Not sure which year it is, but the caster will vary a little and wondering if the 7 degree bushings are the safest bet with a 2 1/2" lift.

And if I didn't confuse myself enough, I am also looking at the Duff's T-Rex stock length arms. Not sure yet, but if I put them on they come with 4.25 degrees of caster built in, and I will have to adjust the C bushings to compensate as well. Do these t-rex arms improve steering over stock? I know they alleviate rubbing on larger tires.

Given the 2 options above, does the Dana 44 from Tom's give me a much better starting point for steering geometry over the stock D44? Also, please let me know if I am overlooking any drawbacks with the Dana 44 from Tom's. The Dana 44 on Currie's website was only available in a High Point and it is 1" wider, so I am hoping to avoid stuff like that with the Tom's D44.
 
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jamesroney

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2007
Messages
1,823
Loc.
Fremont, CA
I am moving on from the rear end of the '67, waiting to hear back from one vendor, but I will probably order a complete Currie rear with drum brakes.

For the front, it currently has the D30. I bought an empty D44 housing from Wildhorses4x4 years ago with plans to have a local company build it for me. Here are the basics of the bronco build. '67 with a 2/1/2" wildhorses lift, I will install this when I put the front and rear housings in. 1" body lift already installed. I am leaning towards a Blueprint new small block 302/347, if they do the 347 with the new castings. 4R70W trans and the transfer case will remain D20. Gear ratio of 4.56.

This bronco will not see any hard off-road driving, I want as good street manners as possible for this. I know caster is not going to be specific to my bronco since they are all a little different, but I want start in the best place possible since I will be putting in everything new.

I am waiting to hear back from a local place about building the D44, no idea of a cost yet. They will build it out to the knuckles I provide. I thought local was my only option, but I contacted Tom's Offroad and they have a 44 Mag Dana 44 front end with a low pinion option. Tom's Dana44 I can order it with an open carrier instead of the Power Lock. They also have an option of adding axles and brakes. I have to ask about that since you can't separate those 2 things on the drop down menu. I already have a conversion front disc brake package from Wildhorses so I only need the axles. They also sell new pre-ground knuckles with ball joints installed, I would prefer these over grinding down my drum knuckles.

This option of buying the Dana 44 from Tom's brings up the caster issue, and certainly where I am out of my element. The Tom's Dana 44 comes with 4 degrees of positive caster on the outer C's, and the pinion is rotated up 2 degrees. Since this will be all new, I don't have a starting point on caster and will need to use a best-guess on what degree C bushings I would need with the added in positive caster.

Similar issue with the stock Dana 44 housing build. Not sure which year it is, but the caster will vary a little and wondering if the 7 degree bushings are the safest bet with a 2 1/2" lift.

And if I didn't confuse myself enough, I am also looking at the Duff's T-Rex stock length arms. Not sure yet, but if I put them on they come with 4.25 degrees of caster built in, and I will have to adjust the C bushings to compensate as well. Do these t-rex arms improve steering over stock? I know they alleviate rubbing on larger tires.

Given the 2 options above, does the Dana 44 from Tom's give me a much better starting point for steering geometry over the stock D44? Also, please let me know if I am overlooking any drawbacks with the Dana 44 from Tom's. The Dana 44 on Currie's website was only available in a High Point and it is 1" wider, so I am hoping to avoid stuff like that with the Tom's D44.
Where are you located? If you are close to Fremont, I can help you. And where are you coming up with this "they are all different" stuff? Every one I've ever built measured the same. Also, what clocking position are you running with your D20? An additional 7 degrees on the inner C worked for me with 3.5 lift.
 

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hsach

hsach

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Joined
Apr 19, 2013
Messages
346
Where are you located? If you are close to Fremont, I can help you. And where are you coming up with this "they are all different" stuff? Every one I've ever built measured the same. Also, what clocking position are you running with your D20?
I am in Reno. The "they are all different" stuff comes from here. I keep seeing posts saying D44s up to '74 might be different than later 75 ones, also 76-77 are different because of power steering. I may be reading it incorrectly, but this is why I made the post. The D20 is most likely in the stock position, I haven't removed the engine/trans yet.

I updated the original post as well, but I just heard back from the local shop. $2500 for everything except for the knuckles I will provide.
 
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1969miller

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Full Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2022
Messages
150
Loc.
Elk Grove
I am in Reno. The "they are all different" stuff comes from here. I keep seeing posts saying D44s up to '74 might be different than later 75 ones, also 76-77 are different because of power steering. I may be reading it incorrectly, but this is why I made the post. The D20 is most likely in the stock position, I haven't removed the engine/trans yet.

I updated the original post as well, but I just heard back from the local shop. $2500 for everything except for the knuckles I will provide.
The info you are reading about the year break is most likely for the full width half ton housings in the F100s and F150/fullsize broncos.
 

lars

Contributor
Been here awhile
Joined
Jun 29, 2001
Messages
3,102
Loc.
NorCal flatlands
Where are you located? If you are close to Fremont, I can help you. And where are you coming up with this "they are all different" stuff? Every one I've ever built measured the same. Also, what clocking position are you running with your D20? An additional 7 degrees on the inner C worked for me with 3.5 lift.
^^^what he said. Differences are in track bar mount (last couple of years are different) and steering knuckles (irrelevant to the discussion of the axle housing). That's about it. And if you are putting serious money into a D44 without cutting/turning the knuckles to get adequate caster, the other efforts are pointless. Yeah, I know, flamethrowing words. But I stand by them.
 

jamesroney

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2007
Messages
1,823
Loc.
Fremont, CA
Another one done today. 3.5 lift, Tie rod over, track bar riser, 12 degrees of pinion incline and 7 degrees of caster on 0 degree rubber wedges.

@lars ...I should just start building these things...
 

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hsach

hsach

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Members Only
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Apr 19, 2013
Messages
346
^^^what he said. Differences are in track bar mount (last couple of years are different) and steering knuckles (irrelevant to the discussion of the axle housing). That's about it. And if you are putting serious money into a D44 without cutting/turning the knuckles to get adequate caster, the other efforts are pointless. Yeah, I know, flamethrowing words. But I stand by them.
Lars, this is essentially what my concern was when I started this thread. Putting serious money into a D44 without turning the knuckles. I was only looking at a local shop or a complete package from a vendor, and I was having trouble getting anyone local to give an estimate. That is why the Tom's Dana 44 looked good to me, C's turned 4 degrees and the pinion rotated 2 degrees up to compensate for the 2 1/2" lift. Besides the extreme :)eek:) amount of money and the 3 to 4 month lead time, this seemed like it would get me the best steering possible.

This place truly is amazing with the offers of help and advice.
 

Oldtimer

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Jr. Member with Sr. moments
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
970
Loc.
Sunnyvale, CA
Another one done today. 3.5 lift, Tie rod over, track bar riser, 12 degrees of pinion incline and 7 degrees of caster on 0 degree rubber wedges.
Is rubber better choice than poly for wedge bushings?
 
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lars

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Been here awhile
Joined
Jun 29, 2001
Messages
3,102
Loc.
NorCal flatlands
Another one done today. 3.5 lift, Tie rod over, track bar riser, 12 degrees of pinion incline and 7 degrees of caster on 0 degree rubber wedges.

@lars ...I should just start building these things...
Those photos frighten me. I'm not sure I've ever managed to make any drivetrain component on my Bronco look that good. At least not for more than a few minutes.

And yes, you should. If I had the shop and equipment I might consider it myself. But the mere thought makes my arthritic hands hurt worse.
 

jamesroney

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Sep 11, 2007
Messages
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Loc.
Fremont, CA
Is rubber better choice than poly for wedge bushings?
The legend is that the the factory rubber bushings provide the best flex and ride. I've always used polyurethane but couldn't find any in 0 degrees. So I'm going to see if the rubber ones are actually better.
 

lars

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Been here awhile
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Jun 29, 2001
Messages
3,102
Loc.
NorCal flatlands
The legend is that the the factory rubber bushings provide the best flex and ride. I've always used polyurethane but couldn't find any in 0 degrees. So I'm going to see if the rubber ones are actually better.
Please give a report when you've put some time on them.
 

Oldtimer

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Jr. Member with Sr. moments
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
970
Loc.
Sunnyvale, CA
I don't like the rubber bushings (both C and the doughnuts at back of rad arms).
In a panic stop on pavement they never compressed the same, the axle would twist, and the back end would snap around.
More than once I stopped sideways in the crosswalk.
Went to all poly, and stop straight every time.
Maybe rubber C and poly doughnut bushings will give more flex, and stop straight.
 

Speedrdr

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Not so wise OLD owl
Joined
Nov 27, 2017
Messages
1,351
Loc.
Paris, MS
^^^ same here. When I went from rubber to polyurethane C bushings, (on a ‘72) it turned from a loose grip on the wheel not knowing where it was going. With poly, I didn’t really have to hold the wheel at all. Always stopped in a straight line. Not sure if being drums on all corners had anything to do with that, but not willing to test rubber with disc fronts.

Randy
 

bax

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Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,493
I am a cut and turn fan myself. I cut the wedges and the C's off. Put the wedges back on the axle and bolt them into the arms. Adjust pinion angle , set the C's to -7 degrees. put a few tack welds on everything and take the axle out . Weld it up. But I use high pinions from 76 f100's if I can find them. Shorten them to bronco width in the process. Doing one now.
 
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