Dana 60 build

[mavereq]

I picked up a pair of dana 60's for my bronco. The front is out is a late 80's F350. I decided to plate the housing on the driver side so the link mount can be welded to steel instead of cast iron. Here be some pics:

 

[mavereq]

The housing was pre and post heated. I used nickel rod on the cast and 7018 for everything else. We flipped the housing up and welded the passenger tube to the housing. After it gets mocked up and checked for clearance I'll add the link brackets and truss. The track bar bracket will be fabricated once the steering is setup.



I'm planning on running ORI struts instead of coils this time. I ordered high steer arms from ruffstuff.

 

[frenchy]

Great work, beautiful welds to. Can't wait to see it under the rig.

frenchy

 

[treihesse]

I wanna see how you like the ori struts.

 

[Desert Thrasher]

Subscribed!

 

[mavereq]

Thanks. I'm really looking forward to getting these axles in. I'm ordering the struts this week.

 

[mavereq]

I still haven't decided on which locker to run. I'm probably going to run the stock axles until I can afford RCVs.

 

[treihesse]

Man those 35 spline inners and outers are so frigging strong. I wouldn't waste my money on RCV axles. I saw more of those fail at the hammers than traditional axles. Good set of chromoly axles and good joints and your good. I have a buddy who runs a jeep with 40" trepadors sticky compound chromoly axles Spicer joints and hes 500+ hp and hes never broke. He swears by making sure your hubs are legit so he says yukon hardcore or flanges. The reason for this is when a warn or mm hub lets go it shock loads axles and u joints. Just my .02 but im building a as built proof as possible with 40" tires as I can so Im running 35 spline factory ten stubs, yukon hubs, dutchman inner axles and a Detroit locker. I had viperwolf set up a stronger dana 20 for me with front digs for better turning it the tight areas.

 

[KyleQ]

Spicer joints and 35 spline outers are a must - the stock junk can't handle much.

I've never broken a stock lockout - those are find if you must stay stock.

The rear 60 is not worth the effort - unless you run aftermarket shafts.

 

[mavereq]

I was wondering how strong the 30 spline stubs are. I have 35 spline for the rear, but I have to get the spindles bored.

 

[treihesse]

30 splines are weak. Basically a 60 ear with a 44 shaft.. the 35 splines are saweet

 

[welndmn]

I like it, that's different how I've done it in the past

 

[KyleQ]

I was wondering how strong the 30 spline stubs are. I have 35 spline for the rear, but I have to get the spindles bored.

They will pop as soon as you push it, destroying your lockout, spindle, wheel bearings and wheel seal. It sucks - I got these to fix that problem...

I also broke a knuckle with my hi steer after a fear years of abuse. I limited my steering cylinder far before the steering stops, but it still cracked...

 

[treihesse]

I thought about the east coast gear setup too but I like a lockout style. I found these all on pirate for 400 bucks. 35 spline. Look for some deals there out there

 

[Mountain Ram]

I also picked up my 35 spline axles (NIB) and used Warn hubs on Pirate- I think I was right around $350 shipped to my door. Not bad when you can find a deal. Definitely worth it to do this one right the first time.

As for the knuckles, I have the Artec high steer arms that I drilled to line up with the existing tie rod hole. This puts the steering bolt in double shear with my full hydro setup. This helps alot on the high steer knuckle failures. I am not sure how Kyle's was set up, but aftermarket knuckles are not cheap!!

 

[SpareParts]

It took me 3 years to break a stock outer stub...But maybe I was just lucky. I broke it with a set of Warn Lockouts. When it happened, it swelled my spindle and ruined the locking nuts removing them. Lucky I had spares spindles already or it would have cost a bunch more. The great thing with buying them before you break them, is you have spares to fall back on. So it does almost cost you twice when you break the stock stuff.

I need to look into the Artec or similar arms to double sheer mine....

 

[Yeller]

It took me 3 years to break a stock outer stub...But maybe I was just lucky. I broke it with a set of Warn Lockouts. When it happened, it swelled my spindle and ruined the locking nuts removing them. Lucky I had spares spindles already or it would have cost a bunch more. The great thing with buying them before you break them, is you have spares to fall back on. So it does almost cost you twice when you break the stock stuff.

I need to look into the Artec or similar arms to double sheer mine....

Took you 3 years longer than me...lol lasted almost 2 days...;D but I drive like a drunk retard....

Call me before you spend money.....

 

[KyleQ]

I also picked up my 35 spline axles (NIB) and used Warn hubs on Pirate- I think I was right around $350 shipped to my door. Not bad when you can find a deal. Definitely worth it to do this one right the first time.

As for the knuckles, I have the Artec high steer arms that I drilled to line up with the existing tie rod hole. This puts the steering bolt in double shear with my full hydro setup. This helps alot on the high steer knuckle failures. I am not sure how Kyle's was set up, but aftermarket knuckles are not cheap!!

Nice deal on the parts, I got a hookup off Pirate for mine, but paid slightly more. I did get Yukon shafts instead of the Nitro/10 Factory shafts they were having problems with. The pucks are easy to remove and seal back up - my diff is welded and I'm a trailer queen, so I don't need lockouts... I got both my knuckles to the door for less than ONE knuckle from anyone else, new or used. It was a score of a deal! The steel welded on mine is available in pre-bent kit form on Pirate, as long as you can weld and have a BBQ grill, you can do this at home.

It took me 3 years to break a stock outer stub...But maybe I was just lucky. I broke it with a set of Warn Lockouts. When it happened, it swelled my spindle and ruined the locking nuts removing them. Lucky I had spares spindles already or it would have cost a bunch more. The great thing with buying them before you break them, is you have spares to fall back on. So it does almost cost you twice when you break the stock stuff.

I need to look into the Artec or similar arms to double sheer mine....

I broke my first stub the first time out with my NP435 IN MY BACK YARD - the C4 was easier on parts. Every time I broke a $30 D60 stub it destroyed over $100 in parts. I'll repeat that. Every time I broke a $30 D60 stub it destroyed over $100 in parts. Do yourself a favor and plan on dropping $550 on stubs, pucks/lockouts, and SPICER ujoints.
I started off with Ballistic Fab hi-steer and PSC full hydro - I limited the ram internally and it still cracked nearly half way around the top of one knuckle. I wouldn't say I was hard on it, I drive into an obstacle easy and then pounded on it - still broke it. My link angles are perfect and it still popped -

I am on 37" Boggers and welded differentials. Everything I read said the D60 should be indestructible on 37's - NOT.

I would go with the Artec Fab hi-steer arms in a heartbeat - Ballistic makes a fixer for mine, so I'll weld these on for $30...

Destruction doesn't stop there - NP435 outputs, 35 spline D70HD axle shafts, D70 ring and pinions...


I'm starting to think I should pull the nice Spicer ujoints off the ends of my drive shafts and run parts store junk so its easier to fix... Well, off to build more horsepower and run bigger tires ;D

 

[mavereq]

I have the ruffstuff high steer arms. They just showed up today and I haven't opened the box yet. I'll be running them double shear.

 

[KyleQ]

Nice - those should keep your knuckles alive.