Did all early broncos have a rear cv joint in the driveline?

[benelibutton]

I dont think its a rod bearing knock but maybe. How would I diagnose that?

 

[DirtDonk]

The orientation of the shaft halves is probably not overly important. At least it's not in some applications. Ford and other O.E.'s had many a shaft that way in their pickups. Not as many Bronco-like applications (as in, short wheelbase) to compare to of course, so it may have some effect in a short shaft that it doesn't in a long one.
Even my F350 has the short side forward with a single-cardan shaft. The front shaft is a double-cardan shaft though, like we're used to.

I like the idea put forth of driving it in front wheel only when you get the chance. That has helped diagnose things many times.

No matter what the noise ultimately ends up being, getting u-joint and driveshaft angles within spec is always of primary concern in a modified 4wd.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Have you checked/replaced your lubricants in the gear boxes since you've had the truck?
When you're able, check for freeplay in the output yokes too.

Now, for something completely different... Your leaf springs are "custom" to say the least.
Someone put a short and thick add-a-leaf under the main pack and reversed the spring clips. Or at least the one in the pic. Looks like the bolt is acting as a budget lift!
That thing ride pretty stiff?

Paul

 

[benelibutton]

Idk I dont have much to compare it to besides the stock suspension that was shot. It feels better than that one did. Trust me new leafsprings are next on my list. It dont feel that bad until I hit a speed bump. I knew I shouldnt have put them in but I was on a budget.

 

[benelibutton]

A guy kinda threw them into a deal . I got james duff springs, adjustable track bar drop bracket and bushings for around 100 those were the only thing I regret about it.

 

[DirtDonk]

Ah, that's right. Those were the ones you asked about a few weeks ago.
Well, for now I would just take the cross-bolt out of the clippy-doodle thingy and see how things go.
The "anti-fanning" clip is just to keep individual leaves from splaying out independent of the main pack. The way yours is set up (with the bolt in from the top leaf instead of the bottom) I don't see how removing the cross-bolt could cause any trouble. It's just there to keep the ears from spreading and to limit the amount of spread the leaves can achieve.
Rock-crawlers remove them all the time to get that last little fraction of wheel travel by letting the springs spread farther than the bolts allow.

Paul

 

[benelibutton]

Oh and that bolt is just dangling there right now. I could move it with my hand its not holding anything up.

 

[benelibutton]

Yea ill remove it. What did u think if the driveline should I put a cv in

 

[benelibutton]

Oh and I had the fluids checked the day I got the engine running I smung into a loccal shop and had them check and top everything off so I could continue to drive and tune the carb. I never fully changed them yet though.

 

[toddz69]

It was brought to my attention today that I didnt have a cv joint on my driveline. I was wondering if this could be the cause of my ratteling noise that has been bothering me. I lifted it last weekend and the rattle noise is exactly the same before and after the lift. Anyways, if your soposed to have an exteded driveline to lift your truck 3 1/2 inches how would it even be possible to run a stock driveline without the cv joint after I lifted it ( I wouldnt think it would be long enough).

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that Ford never installed a non-double cardan driveshaft in an EB. All the factory documentation I have (dating back to August of '65) shows them. As Paul noted earlier, having one from the factory would mean the t-case output and 3rd member input would need to be parallel. That's possible but would mean you're exceeding the recommended operating angle for a u-joint.

In my opinion - put a proper driveshaft in your truck and then start your troubleshooting. Your current driveshaft is probably causing some odd harmonics that may be causing vibrations/rattles elsewhere in the powertrain.

Todd Z.

 

[benelibutton]

Ok thanks

 

[Ranchtruck]

If it's a light rattle noise, I would check the shifter linkage rods for the spring washers where they attach to the shift levers on the transmission.

 

[benelibutton]

Thats what I was thinking. Whats a spring washer. I have looked under there and wondered if something is missing. I have nuts on the inside of the linkage before it goes through the shift levers but that it just a nut

 

[benelibutton]

I fixed it. It was the driveline not having a cv joint is what the problem was

 

[Teal68]

Excellent!

 

[wheelsblank27]

I fixed it. It was the driveline not having a cv joint is what the problem was

Just saw this thread and have the exact issue you were goin through w your EB. The po must have installed a non cv and didn't disclose that to me when I bought it. Long /short the wrong shaft causedthe rear pinion bearings in the 9" pumpkin to dislodge and fall into the gears causing a whining sound on decel (I wrote a thread about the whole deal). I had to rebuild and ended up gettin a trutrac anyway but you should def. check the oil in your rear axle thoroughly for metal and if you drove it for awile w out cv joint might be same issue.
Also wanted to know where you got your new d shaft cause I'm gettin ready to pick up mine and solve this disaster once and for all.
I've done way to much work on my rig too not drive it.