I've been doing my own alignments for years. Its really no big deal. I've done a rough alignment on a car (my old VW bug), then taken it to an alignment shop only for them to tell me they couldn't get it any better than it already was. I haven't done a bronco yet, but here are a few general tips.
1) make sure your rims are not bent first (jack the wheel up, set a stool near the edge of the tire, spin the wheel and check the runout by using a ruler or probe stabilized on the stool. Hopefully your runout will be under 1/8" or so.
2) The telescoping pipes that Papitt described is the way I measure my toe in. I went a step further by adding a cone shaped tip to each end. Measure off the rim and not the tire (tire casings can be inconsistent and uneven). As an alternate, you can jack up the front of the car, spin the wheel, use a can of spray paint to spray a colored streak down the centerline of the tire, then quickly use a screwdriver stabilized on the ground/fender/stool to scribe a true line in the wet paint as the tire spins (you'll just be hitting the tops of the tread blocks. This could be tough with all terrain tires, but if you do it for each front tire, you can measure off that line at the front and rear of the tire using a tape measure.
3) to measure camber, use a magnet/stick/tape/clamps (whatever works) to fasten a plumb line off your fender or hood so it dangles straight down past the center of rotation for the wheel. Measure from the plumb line to the top and bottom of the rim. With some basic trigonometry, you can figure out the camber pretty easily. Take the wheel off and support the vehicle with jackstands under the axle so the suspension is still loaded and you can use the same method to measure forward/backwards to the center of the top/bottom ball joint or kingpin to figure out your caster.
Oh, and by the way, you have to do the caster and camber on a flat and level surface. Otherwise the angle will throw the measurement from the plumbline off. Check your work surface with a long carpenters level at the exact location where the tires are going to sit to confirm that it's flat and level.
This can be tedius and you may decide it's worth the $80 or so to have a pro use an alignment rack, but it is definitely doable...