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Drag link ball joint not replaceable ?......PROBLEM SOLVED!!

1977

Full Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
Messages
223
This all came about as a result of my earlier post.
http://www.classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70710


Not sure what the appropriate name for it is, but the rod end (knuckle/ ie the part that rotates) that connects the drag link to the pitman arm isn't rotating smoothly as I noticed upon disconnecting the two. Any suggestions on how to take it (the knuckle) off/out for further inspection and/or replacement? Can you buy just the knuckle?

?:?
 
Last edited:

Hogback

Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2004
Messages
524
i think you may be talking about the drag link
Lets start at the top, coming out of the steering box is the pitman arm, it is connceted to the drag link by way of a ball joint which is not replaceable, and in the other end is another ball joint which goes into the tie rod assembly about 10"-12" away from the passenger side nuckle. The three parts of the tie rod assembly is the longer driver side rod, the short passenger side rod, and the adjusting sleeve that connects the two. just to the right of the adjusting sleve is where the drag link's ball joint goes into the tie rod, the tie rod get's a little flatter there.
You have to replace the whole pieces of the system. I cant remember which vendor but it seems like one was giving a cheaper price if you buy them all at the same time.
the way you get them separated is with a separater. he he You can get them at AutoZone or somewhere like that on their "loan-a-tool" program. Basically you buy it then you can take it back for full refund.
Sometimes all these parts will get frozen and not move much, they really should just all be replaced. Be sure to replace the trac bar bushings at that time unless you reall yknow they are OK. I think Chuck's prices are pretty good on those parts

http://bcbroncos.com/store/index.php?cPath=37_82
 

Hogback

Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2004
Messages
524
after reading my reply i'm not sure it made a lot of sense, the tie rod runs horizontally, or parallel with your D44 front end (or D30), and it points at the inside of both tires. The knuckles are what the ties rods conncet to, and it's a major pain to take off if you have never done that. After a couple times though you'll feel very close to the bronco. But its not needed either for this job.
Unless seriously hampered with a small budget, (which is me) I would just get the whole tie rod works. just use a pickle fork separator on it, and also at that time replace the drag link because you could end up damaging one part trying to get the other part off. If it still doesnt want to come off with the fork, apply heat to the female part, ie. the steering knuckle or the pitman arm, and that will help.
If not sure about part names you need to order some catalogs and study up, plus you get to admire all those beautiful parts and dream of buying every one of them.
 
OP
OP
1

1977

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Mar 16, 2005
Messages
223
I shouldn't do this just to get my post back up to the top, but........... ;D
 

Coob

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Messages
90
Loc.
Houston, Tx
If you are going to go through all the trouble of replacing ball joints, why not go with Heim (sp?) joints and new drag link and tie rod?

I went through this myself upon tear down of my bronco and after much research and mulling all options, I decided to go with Heim and new rods. For me the selling point was durability, strength and flexibility.

Then agagin, if you are rebuilding to factory look, you might go the other way.

Just my 2 cents. ;D
 
OP
OP
1

1977

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Mar 16, 2005
Messages
223
Greased it already, plus when rotated, it's not smooth. I feel some binding inside, although I'm not sure if that is enough to cause my steering issues by itself. I hate to spend 150.00 to find out that it's not the problem. Has anyone ever taken one apart?
 
OP
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1

1977

Full Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
Messages
223
Coob said:
If you are going to go through all the trouble of replacing ball joints, why not go with Heim (sp?) joints and new drag link and tie rod?

I went through this myself upon tear down of my bronco and after much research and mulling all options, I decided to go with Heim and new rods. For me the selling point was durability, strength and flexibility.

Then agagin, if you are rebuilding to factory look, you might go the other way.

Just my 2 cents. ;D
I don't really care about factory originality, I just want to get it back to where it was before this happened. Heim??
 

Flash69

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 21, 2004
Messages
2,429
Loc.
Southwest Va
1977 said:
Greased it already, plus when rotated, it's not smooth. I feel some binding inside, although I'm not sure if that is enough to cause my steering issues by itself. I hate to spend 150.00 to find out that it's not the problem. Has anyone ever taken one apart?
You cant actually take them apart. You can take them off the truck and replace them but you cant change out the joints themselves. You have to buy either one end or both and or draglink.
 
OP
OP
1

1977

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Mar 16, 2005
Messages
223
Flash69 said:
You cant actually take them apart. You can take them off the truck and replace them but you cant change out the joints themselves. You have to buy either one end or both and or draglink.
So, I take it (the drag link) off and replace it. Is the old one a core, or does it simply get thrown away?? Seems like a waste if it does.
 

Flash69

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Jul 21, 2004
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1977 said:
So, I take it (the drag link) off and replace it. Is the old one a core, or does it simply get thrown away?? Seems like a waste if it does.
It sounds like youre not sure so if i was you id take it to a mechanic and let him check it to make certain that it is bad. If it is bad yes you just throw it away. Stay with him and watch what he does to check it. you should change it yourself instead of letting the mechanic. It will be a lot cheaper on you and it wont take long and give you some experience on working on it.
 
OP
OP
1

1977

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Messages
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Flash69 said:
It sounds like youre not sure so if i was you id take it to a mechanic and let him check it to make certain that it is bad. If it is bad yes you just throw it away. Stay with him and watch what he does to check it. you should change it yourself instead of letting the mechanic. It will be a lot cheaper on you and it wont take long and give you some experience on working on it.
I'm not afraid of doing it myself. Hell, for a little more than it would cost to have the guy even look at it, I could have bought a new link. I consider myself to be a pretty good mechanic and general DIYer, I've just never had any steering issues in the past, or really dealt with any 4wd setups before. Spent most of my time until now working on cars, not EBs.

Maybe I'll go borrow my friends drag link for troubleshooting purposes, he's going to pull his transmission this weekend.
 

Coob

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Messages
90
Loc.
Houston, Tx
1977 said:
I don't really care about factory originality, I just want to get it back to where it was before this happened. Heim??


Not that I am pimping products for anyone but I researched these folks before making a decision as to what I wanted to do. Most of the advise I found right here on this forum.

http://stonecrusher.classicbroncos.com/
or
http://bulletproofsteering.com/main.html

Also you can check out the tech article on this site:

http://classicbroncos.com/stone_crusher_steering.shtml

Anyways - it may be worth it to you to just replace the joints in the short term. Again, I contemplated that for a while but my situation was a little bit worse off because I had a bent tie rod. :cool:
 

Pa PITT

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Jul 15, 2005
Messages
11,268
Loc.
Stephenville TEXAS
slop

boy I JUST CANT WAIT TO JUMP IN ON THIS ONE !
WELL MY TWO BITS WORTH, I'M AN OLD PARTSMAN , IF I WERE YOU I'D GO DOWN TO A LOCAL PARTS HOUSE ...ONE THAT HAS OLD FARTS IN IT ...NOT
THE YOUNG KIDS ON COMPUTORS AND ASK TO LOOK AT A "MOOG" OR PERFECT CIRCLE CHASSIC BOOK AND LOOK UP THE PARTS I WANTED.. IT'LL NEED TO BE AND OLD BOOK , BUT GOOD PARTS HOUSE SAVE THEM..EVEN AS REFRENCES ..... OH BY THE WAY I DIDNT SPELL WELL IN THE 1ST GRADE EITHER....KMA....
.
......GET THE NAMES DOWN CORRECT AND IT'LL ALL WORK OUT ....
SOME ONE LAST NIGHT ON A DIFFERENT PLACE SAID, TAKE OFF THE DRAG LINK LOOSE FROM THE STEERING GEAR AND MAKE SURE IT'S NOT IN THE STEERING GEAR BOX FRIST.. ..OR IS IT JUST THE JOINTS IN THE REST OF THE OF THE STEERING .......I'LL BET IT 'S IN THE GEAR BOX ! TIME FOR POWER STEERING OR I'VE GOT SEVERAL MANUALS FOR SALE ....PaPitt........
 
OP
OP
1

1977

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PAPITT said:
IF I WERE YOU I'D GO DOWN TO A LOCAL PARTS HOUSE ...ONE THAT HAS OLD FARTS IN IT ...NOT THE YOUNG KIDS ON COMPUTORS .....
AMEN Brutha!!!!!

PAPITT said:
TIME FOR POWER STEERING .....
Got Power steering. Disconnected the drag link, moves freely by hand and with engine running. How do I know fer'shur short of disassembly???
 

Flash69

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1977 said:
How do I know fer'shur short of disassembly???
I had all kinds of trouble out of mine a while back. I didnt know that my box was bad. I changed everthing on it and it ended up that the only thing it could be was the box. I sent it to west texas offroad and the rest is history. Mine drives good now.
 
OP
OP
1

1977

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223
Flash69 said:
I had all kinds of trouble out of mine a while back. I didnt know that my box was bad. I changed everthing on it and it ended up that the only thing it could be was the box. I sent it to west texas offroad and the rest is history. Mine drives good now.
Well, if I can't figure it out soon, I guess its time to talk to wifie-poo and start throwing money at it. Maybe I'll start with that Stonecrusher setup, seems pretty reasonable. I think it starts out at around 265 for everything under there. Does that include the drag link?
 

Flash69

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Jul 21, 2004
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At least when you do get it figured out and fixed you will have a bunch of good parts in your rig. I have an all new frontend. Whatever works i always say.
 

jbeyer

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Mar 3, 2004
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1,679
Loc.
new york city
1977 said:
Well, if I can't figure it out soon, I guess its time to talk to wifie-poo and start throwing money at it. Maybe I'll start with that Stonecrusher setup, seems pretty reasonable. I think it starts out at around 265 for everything under there. Does that include the drag link?

chuck has a hiem joint steering set up that you should check, also.
 
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