Drag Link Length compared to Track bar length

[DirtDonk]

Looking at the pics, your bars are relatively parallel. But I would still rotate the draglink up more than it is, even if that puts them out of parallel just a tiny bit.

Loosen all three adjusters (all six clamps) so it rotates freely and point the grease fitting on the lower draglink end up a little more towards the bumper/radiator area.
The actual degree spec is about 65° based on some recent measurements a member here did on his stock setup.

Try that and see if things calm down a bit more.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Oh, and if rotating it a bit more makes them out of parallel, perhaps that second hole would be an option to bring them back closer.

Did we talk about centering things and making sure that the trackbar drop bracket was welded on? I think so, but wanted to mention it here too.

First two things to do when making sure a suspension and steering are dialed in and playing together well, are to make sure that the axle is centered, and that the steering box is centered.
Then everything else can be adjusted to accommodate those two basic things.

Paul

 

[navalbronco66]

Just a word of caution to anyone trying this method... it should work fine as long as the track bar and drag link are the same length, but if one is longer than the other and depending where the pivot points are located relative to one another, then the vertical measurements could be different even though the bars are parallel.
My track bar is shorter than the drag link used with my GM 1 ton steering conversion. I have F150 knuckles, went tie rod over and using my track bar riser. I set it all up so the bars are parallel at ride height for best results, and in my case this is an instance where the vertical distance between pivot points does not match.

Here's a picture from when I was setting up my steering and a crude drawing trying to show what I'm talking about as well.;D

I'm working on the same setup ( F150 knuckles, TRO, Ruff stuff TRE kit) with a WH 3.5 lift, is there any reason why you went with that track bar with the helm joint, I used the WH horse track bar. Also seems that the track bar is mounted to a custom mount on the frame? My track bar comes a lot closer to front diff core than yours.

 

[migs]

I'm working on the same setup ( F150 knuckles, TRO, Ruff stuff TRE kit) with a WH 3.5 lift, is there any reason why you went with that track bar with the helm joint, I used the WH horse track bar. Also seems that the track bar is mounted to a custom mount on the frame? My track bar comes a lot closer to front diff core than yours.

The frame mount is just the factory one with some reinforcement plates welded to it. I bought the ruff stuff steering kit along with thier heim joints to build my own track bar to go along with my track bar riser on the axle. I also rotated my knuckles back for good caster and pinion angle. the riser makes a big difference in keeping the track bar away from the axle... just have to watch out for the oil pan!;D


As to the original posters issue, was wondering the possibility of the over inflated tires for the weight of the vehicle maybe creating extra suspension movement as they may not be absorbing some of the bumps that a lower pressure would. thinking of them as acting like a couple of giant basketballs!

 

[Mike42p]

Not to hijack the thread but I am having a similar issue - just a little different so I thought I would ask opinions. As you can see in my pic my trac bar is actually almost hidden behind my drag link. I have 76 with the JBG 5.5" lift and drop trac bar bracket with Chevy TRE conversion upgrade. How should I set this up differently? Riser? Lose the drop bracket? Not sure how to proceed so any help is appreciated.

 

[navalbronco66]

The frame mount is just the factory one with some reinforcement plates welded to it. I bought the ruff stuff steering kit along with thier heim joints to build my own track bar to go along with my track bar riser on the axle. I also rotated my knuckles back for good caster and pinion angle. the riser makes a big difference in keeping the track bar away from the axle... just have to watch out for the oil pan!;D


As to the original posters issue, was wondering the possibility of the over inflated tires for the weight of the vehicle maybe creating extra suspension movement as they may not be absorbing some of the bumps that a lower pressure would. thinking of them as acting like a couple of giant basketballs!

I like that track bar riser, looks custom, possibility on explaining how you made it.

 

[DirtDonk]

Even though it is hard to see for sure Mike, I'd lose the trackbar drop bracket.
At least that would be my normal recommendation for a Bronco that had been changed from an Inverted-Y setup to an Inverted-T setup.
That's just general practice for any setup, but since your tie-rods are also different (longer draglink) and mounted TRO, pretty much everything on yours is at least subject to closer scrutiny before making it permanent.

But just looking at the pivot points, I'd think raising the upper trackbar bolt/pivot location is a good start.

Probably no problem with the slight hijack. But if this opens up a can-o-worms or you want to get deeper into it, definitely start a new thread with some pics and we can work out different scenarios for you.

Good luck!

Paul

 

[bush450]

I feel your pain I have a duff 3.5" monster lift and have the exact symptoms. I added a WH track bar riser, because my track bar and drag link were off that really didn't help at all so then I changed out ball joints my lowers were shot, that changed from white knuckling it to just paying attention to the road and knowing its gonna get some bump steer and accell decel steer like you said your dealing with. I am on 35" toyo MT's they are new I have a detroit soft locker in the rear. So that can have some to do with it. It kinda feels like pulling a trailer with the weight passed the axle so it kinda gets that scary speed wabble thing lol. I will keep you updated if I figure out the cause still need to check all bolts and everything. I am also very interested in the castor

 

[Mike42p]

Thanks Donk. I'll start with losing the drop bracket and move along from there. Maybe I'll send some pics when I get the time to take it off.

 

[tad3790]

Well, sorry... I had to go away and not able to tune back in here. Here is an update on my ride....
I lowered the tire PSI to around 35lbs (in several 2-3 lb increments) That help a TON! I was running wayyyy too much tire psi for a load range E tire. Thanks for that bit of information... I shoulda known!

I welded my drop track bar bracket, and made the track bar and drag link the same exact length.

This has made my Bronco quite easy to drive. Soooo much better. I actually drive on township topsy turvy roads and I can run down the road with one hand on the wheel now.... NICE!

I do however know my steering in not centered in it's travel. I need to figure out the best method for that next. I assume I need to remove the pitman arm and center the steering wheel in travel and reinstall.

Thanks a bunch for all the little pointers. It does not seem like there is much to change on these things... but when you really set out to dial it in... there is actually a good bit to have right if you want to ride down the road with a relaxed sphincter. lol

 

[DirtDonk]

Hey congrats! That's definitely good news. Glad to hear it's a bit more enjoyable to drive now, like it should be.

Yes to the steering re-center, but let's get our terminology consistent too, so we know we're on the same page. When you're centering the box, while you "might" use the steering wheel as your cue, DON'T use it at first. You just never know if the wheel or shaft have ever been pulled and re-oriented by a PO just to go the easy route in the past.
You may already have known that, but I wanted to run down the full setup just in case.

So, yes, recenter the box, but make sure that it's the box that is centered and that the steering wheel matches that.

1. If possible, drive to your work position so that you know the tires are pointed straight ahead. This isn't absolutely required, but it sure makes things easier to dial in.

2. Disconnect the draglink from the pitman arm (or the pitman arm from the box, whichever is easier for you).

3. Turn the steering wheel all the way to one extreme (steering lock) then count the turns exactly that it takes to get to the other lock. Some Ford boxes are as low as 3.5 turns, others are 4 or so, while other older ones might be as much as 6.25 turns lock-to-lock.
You need to be pretty precise on the count, so you can go exactly half-way back to the middle.

4. Find the center of the box by going half way back. So if you have a 4.5 turn box for example, you go back exactly 2.25 turns. This is the boxes on-center position from which you'll base all else.
If your steering wheel matches exactly, great! You're in luck and don't have to change anything. But if it's off slightly, don't do anything else until you've re-centered it on the box.
That might mean pulling the wheel and moving it over a spline or two, or pulling the steering shaft off the box and rotating it a spline or two. Whatever works for you.
Once you have the wheel reflecting the box, you're gold from here on out.

5. Adjust draglink length to match up to the tapered hole exactly. Run the nut down and torque to 40lbs and go for a drive.
If while you're driving you find that the steering wheel is cocked off a tiny bit (or more) you can then re-adjust the draglink length on the vehicle to pull the wheel (and therefor the box) back to centered.
The ultimate deciding factor is how it's aligned when you're driving, vs just sitting in the driveway. You might get it right on the money the first time, but often as not it's a teeny bit off when you go for your first drive.
No big deal, as that's what the adjustable draglink is actually for anyway. To fix that.

Sorry if you already knew that, but it's so important that the box be the center of the steering universe that I figured I'd run it down for anyone that is listening in.

Good luck.

Paul