Drivers side ball joint

[Grey owl]

Rather than buying whole piece with the fixed ball joint on the drivers side why not cut off the drivers side ball joint thread the shaft and add another adjustable threaded ball joint. Has anyone done this.

 

[Oldtimer]

?
Ball joint is pressed into axle housing, and tapered stud is pulled into knuckle.

Are you talking about track bar or drag link ends?

Post a picture of part.

 

[thegreatjustino]

Tie Rod & Drag Link Kit | 3-way Adjustable | 66-75 Ford Bronco

66-75 Ford Bronco T-Style Steering Linkage Replace the factory early Bronco steering linkage with our heavy duty 3-way adjustable tie rod & drag link kit. The factory 66-75 Bronco tie rods and draglink assembly only allows for a single adjustment at the passenger side. This custom early Bronco...

www.wildhorses4x4.com

 

[Grey owl]

X

?
Ball joint is pressed into axle housing, and tapered stud is pulled into knuckle.

Are you talking about track bar or drag link ends?

Post a picture of part

Drag link ends. My 69 has only one adjuster

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes, that’s factory. Saving money at its finest!
You’re not incorrect to call it a ball joint, since it is in fact a ball and socket joint.
Just that the common name has become synonymous only with the steering “ball joints“ in the knuckle. And the words “tie rod ends“ or just “rod ends“ Have become more used in the case of the drag link and tie rod.

What you suggest has been done, and as Justino pointed out, the updated parts are available over-the-counter so to speak.
Cutting and threading is not something that everybody can, or wants do anymore. And many shops don’t wanna touch steering linkage to modify it.
So buying a ready-made kit, such as we sell is the way to go for many. That way not only can you get double adjustable tie rods, but an adjustable drag link as well.
Which to my mind is something FORD should’ve done right from the get-go.

 

[Grey owl]

It would be nice just to buy the new parts for sure. The downside is being in Canada. So my dollar is worth 68 cents US, shipping will be close to the cost of the part if not more, then duties and tax. Sadly the cost is just getting out of reach.

 

[DirtDonk]

Understand that. In many ways, it’s getting the same down here!

Figure out whether you need a die of the right size, or can have someone machine the threads on the lathe, would be the next big step.
Picking the part number shouldn’t be hard as the easiest way would just be to get another right side, short rod end, a sleeve and two clamps, and then measure three times and cut once!

 

[EPB72]

You dont need three adjusters ,and really no benefit but potentially weakening the tie rod assembly , if using the t style the one adjuster on the tie rod for setting toe so no changes needed , and just adding an adjustable drag link or modifying to center steering box/wheel for suspension lifts and retain full left and right turns,,

 

[DirtDonk]

I don’t think the OP is concerned about adjustability as much as replacement cost.
It’s usually less expensive to buy two short ends than it is to buy a short and long end when it comes time for replacement. As we’ve complained about for all these years.
I think that’s their main concern.

 

[DirtDonk]

Of course, looking at it from purely a price standpoint, if the Bronco isn’t driven every day, it’ll probably be half a lifetime before any rod end ever needs another replacement.
Making the extra cost of converting to this dual adjustable style, probably more than it’s worth.

 

[Grey owl]

Understand that. In many ways, it’s getting the same down here!

Figure out whether you need a die of the right size, or can have someone machine the threads on the lathe, would be the next big step.
Picking the part number shouldn’t be hard as the easiest way would just be to get another right side, short rod end, a sleeve and two clamps, and then measure three times and cut once!

I will have the machine shop do the threads on a lathe. Has to be done right safety is first.