Dual Tanks and EFI - What's your favorite valve?

[72_EB]

What are you folks using? Looking for a straight forward valve for running dual tanks with my EFI with either stock Aux and stock Main or stock Aux and 23 or 4 gallon EFI main. Thanks in advance!

 

[lars]

What are you folks using? Looking for a straight forward valve for running dual tanks with my EFI with either stock Aux and stock Main or stock Aux and 23 or 4 gallon EFI main. Thanks in advance!

Pollak 42-302 valve Actually that's the valve plus the electrical connector. Order from Napa. You can use your existing dash switch to control the valve. Simple to wire up. There used to be a wiring diagram on their site, I don't see it anymore. I have a copy of it on my computer at work. That's the factory valve on both Fords and GM trucks, though the Ford version has a different body molded for the impossible-to-find Ford electrical connector.

 

[eb66to77]

I am using the one that you get from BC Broncos.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Stock valve...
All the return goes back to the main tank. So run down the main, switch to aux. Transfer the aux to the main as you drive, finish off the main. Take out a loan and spend half a day filling both of them up again.

I did this because I couldn't find a good way to get a return into the aux tank. It also cuts down on the plumbing involved.

 

[RKM]

I bought the BC's one also. I wasn't thinking when I bought it. I still haven't done the EFI conversion, however I did think of the draining situation I would have if I ran the second tank. All I could come up with was another elec. valve from BC's to switch the return back to the secondary tank. I would wire them up together so the both flip valves on one switch.

I do like the valve on the link lars provided. It looks like it may have 2 feed lines and 2 return lines all in one.

So far I have the 23 gal tank in with a carb. I never put the secondary tank in an now I don't think I even need it with the big rear tank. I don't wheel so I really don't need the extra gas.

 

[lars]

I bought the BC's one also. I wasn't thinking when I bought it. I still haven't done the EFI conversion, however I did think of the draining situation I would have if I ran the second tank. All I could come up with was another elec. valve from BC's to switch the return back to the secondary tank. I would wire them up together so the both flip valves on one switch.

I do like the valve on the link lars provided. It looks like it may have 2 feed lines and 2 return lines all in one.

So far I have the 23 gal tank in with a carb. I never put the secondary tank in an now I don't think I even need it with the big rear tank. I don't wheel so I really don't need the extra gas.

The motorized one I used from Pollak is probably a bit pricey, but yep, it has dual feeds and dual returns for a full dual tank system with EFI. Run the feeds/returns from each tank to the valve, then a feed line to the electric fuel pump and the return line from the EFI fuel rail. The valve also switches the gas gauge sender unit signals, so you just run the wires from the senders to the valve. Then only one sender wire runs from the valve to the gauge. The motor in the valve only runs for about half a second. It shuttles a spool inside the valve to change the position, then shuts itself off. Thus it's hardly ever drawing power. I attached a shrunk version of Pollak's wiring diagram. I've got a larger version too if anyone's interested.

 

[RKM]

That is a cool setup. How much exactly is pricey? $100? $200

 

[casadejohnson]

That is a cool setup. How much exactly is pricey? $100? $200

Like lars said they are pricey! I think it was over $150 when I looked at them. My solution was to get one from the junk yard. I got mine from a an 89 Ford conversion van with dual tanks. Just look for any EFI ford van or truck with two tanks and it will have the valve. If you get the ford ones they are usually light grey instead of black like the ones you get from Pollak. I took the fuel lines as well from the fuel rail back it makes the connections simple. Lars also mentioned the ford electrical connection was difficult to find. I cut the wires and took the connector as well. Mine has worked great for me and it is also nice because your dash switch will switch your gauge at the same time that it switches tanks. I think I paid $5 for the valve and another $5 for the fuel lines at the Pick and pull. I have been intending to do a tech article on the Ford Pollak valve but I have not gotten to it yet. I do have the info for the wiring of the Ford valve someplace (Basically the same as what lars shows but I think the wire colors change) so if you go that way let me know and I can try to dig it up and email it to you.

 

[ransil]

I don't think they are that much maybe $65. JC whitney carries it.

 

[lars]

That is a cool setup. How much exactly is pricey? $100? $200

OK, found it at JC Whitney, of all places. They only sell the variant that includes the dash switch, but for $53.95, so what: Pollak motorized valve at JC Whitney

 

[72_EB]

Great info and options. Thanks!