Early Bronco parking brake ideas

[Crude dude]

Im looking for a way to put parking brakes on my 70 Bronco. I haven't had the truck on the trails in years but I want to work on the safety end of things before I get tempted to take it out. What I have currently is a C4, Dana 20 and a 9" with the TSM disk brake conversion that uses 78 Monte Carlo calipers. I have been looking (half-ass'd) for a way to install either a driveline brake or to use a differential out of something that has disk brakes and parking brakes. I will have to re-install the brackets required for any rear differential parking brake setup because as a kid I had no need for them and cut them off the underside of the body (dope). Anyone using a driveline brake somehow? Would have to be a site to see since its so close to the tub. Thanks fellas!

 

[pa69broncoguy]

you can buy Cadillac calipers that have the e-brake built right into them and they will bolt on right where your monty calipers are. I think speedway has them

 

[ntsqd]

There's a write-up here on how to make those Cad calipers actually work.

Was it me, I'd dump them and go with the Exploder set-up. Much better parking brake system.

 

[TN1776]

I kick myself a little for not putting Explorer discs on my newly installed big bearing 9" housing. I went with drums because I did not want to change master cylinders, etc... I just needed to replace my small bearing housing and get back on the road. Hindsight is 20/20. When I wear out these drums I will probably toss some Explorer discs on the rear, one day.

 

[rjlougee]

First you have to swap out the calipers so you can have the e-brake option.

Then you can get the handle and bracket from a ZJ (I don't remember year, but probably '96ish). This has a short cable to a bracket that holds the cables from the back, basically replacing the part you cut off your tub.

You could go with a line-lock, but I wouldn't use them for long term braking.

I know there are a couple companies making disk parking brake systems for the Atlas and other aftermarket T-cases, I don't think anyone has made one for the D20 yet.
HTH, Joe

 

[76Broncofromhell]

There's a write-up here on how to make those Cad calipers actually work.

Was it me, I'd dump them and go with the Exploder set-up. Much better parking brake system.

Yep. Caddy calipers are shit.

There was also some backwoods engineering I thought of by using 2006+ Mustang rear calipers and some .75" thick rotors (Likely redrilled Toyota 86-95 IFS rotors).

I chose the Mustang calipers because they are dirt cheap because of all the guys upgrading and have a fairly decent parking brake designed into them.

 

[Crude dude]

So Explorer is the way to go. I was always curious how the spring setup worked on the Caddy calipers, didnt look too good. Is there a certain model and year of Explorer I need to be shopping for? I have a BB 9", should I get the backing plates, calipers and rotors off of the Explorer?

 

[pbwcr]

Lots of Fords came with rear disks with park brake feature. They are much better than the GM versions that do the same thing.
Look at various years of up scale Mustangs. 90 Superbird Mustang is a good choice. Later SVT versions use a similar Varga caliper.

I thought Explorer rear disk used a drum park brake. That woulds suck. I tried them and pitched then in the trash after a year or so of use. The drum fills up with gravel. Enough said.
PaulW

 

[ntsqd]

The Varga calipers are the only hydro-mechanical calipers that I know of to work. That is not an easy thing to do.

First that I've ever heard of the Explorer p-brakes having an issue with gravel. All drums will have an issue to some degree or other with dirt contamination.

A drum brake is the better solution for holding position. Calipers are not "self-energizing" where drums are.

 

[badmuttstang]

ntsqd, you nailed it on the head a drum brake will work better for a ebreak if its a coming down to mechanics. A caliper can do just as good a job if not better if it where to be mechanical not hydraulic. All drum brakes that I have every dealt with in my lifetime as a certified mechanic and as a hobbiest have never worked well at "self energizing" things get gummed up and parts stop moving freely but when you pull or push the ebrake it all mechanical and the cable moves the levers causing it to push out and hold. A caliper set up as far as I know has never come from the factory where it uses hydraulics to apply the ebrake force. As stated some have wired in linelocks to use as a ebrake but eventually the hydraulic pressure will bleed off so it not a good idea yeah its a good idea if you have a stick and do a lot if rock climbing. It can save a clutch or two. The problem with caliper brakes being used in are case is they where not designed for the application. A pinion brake would do the job so much better but how wants to give up that space so one mounted to the transfer case would make a lot more sense. You get a lot more clamp load out of a pinion brake then you ever will out if a drum break.
To solve the issue with some people that don't want the pedal or lever for a ebrake but still have the option in the back meaning you have cables still you can hook up a e-stopp unit. It basically takes the place of the handle/pedal and gives you a electric one push the little button and your good to go.
http://www.estopp.com/#!about/c1x9v

John

 

[suthernboy]

badmuttstang - that system is NICE! I don't need anything for my stock Bronc but it could come in handy for future projects. Thanks for sharing! Any idea of price range?

 

[badmuttstang]

There not cheap speedway sells them for $439 I have seen them on eBay straight from the manufacturer for around $200 every now and then. They sells them when there scratched up on there I keep toying with the idea of buying one just to put away for the day I decide to use it but I know by then they will drop the price. That's just my luck. Some Mercedes Benz came from the factory with a similar set up but they are even higher priced when you find one used.

John

 

[badmuttstang]

Oh and here's a link to speedways price.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/E-Stopp-Electric-Emergency-Brake-Kit,65217.html?gclid=CJblw8-gqMUCFQGTfgod_p4Aow

John

 

[ntsqd]

Clamping force is clamping force, whether hydraulic or mechanical. Deflection in p-brake calipers is a big issue. It is hard to design a floating type caliper to not be flexible, and any flex is lost clamping power and a mushy feeling pedal. Even the front Ford or GM sliding calipers will have observable flex.

The issue with hydro-mechanical p-brake calipers is getting enough leverage without also having excessive cable travel. Then making that leverage system work and live within a hygroscopic brake fluid environment is just as big or a bigger challenge.

Pinion brakes don't necessarily have higher stopping or holding power. They just take advantage of the R&P ratio, which can (but doesn't guarantee) result in a higher effective stopping or holding power. All comes down to how much torque the brake can generate at the tires, either directly or multiplied by the R&P. The type of diff is also a factor, an open or ARB type diff combined with a pinion brake isn't a great idea as one slipping tire will alow the vehicle to move. A Detroit would be my first choice.

Two weekends ago I was up at the Bakersfield Cruiser Parts Swap-Meet and noticed that a Viper parked there had a separate, seemingly purely mechanical parking brake caliper. No idea if this was stock or aftermarket, but it might be good to look into. I know that wilwood has a couple mechanical calipers, but they tend to be limited in max rotor thickness. At the time that I worked for them these calipers were considered to be adequate only for things like go-karts and John Deere "Gators".

 

[badmuttstang]

The secondary caliper on tte viper is stock or should be i have seen plenty with them and worked on a couple of them so if its not they are a dealer add on. A lot of high end sports cars from Europe have the same kind of set up. Im sure someone could fab up brackets to make something like this work but in all honesty whats wrong with the stock drums in the back. If you have the need for better brakes go hydro assist and disc brakes in the front, yes disc's offer an advantage if your going to be getting your brakes wet a lot i.e. paying in deep water but your money is better spent staying with the drums and ditching the vacuum booster or no booster at all and going hydroboosted. Than you still have a good working ebrake and way more stopping power.

John

 

[sykanr0ng]

I've been looking at TSM Mfg.'s transfer case output disc parking brake every now and then wondering about re-engineering them.
They make one for the NP205 and several for various Toyota's.
The brackets are CNC cut flat steel.
The calipers are 100% mechanical.
If there is enough interest they might make some for the Dana 20, they already make kits to fit other rare 4x4's.

http://www.tsmmfg.net/transfer-case-pb.html

 

[badmuttstang]

Just looked at their site and thats the style I was trying to refer to earlier plus when I looked at their rear brake options they show a picture of a disc brake set up that has a mechanical ebreak on it as well.

John

 

[Timmy390]

I've been looking at TSM Mfg.'s transfer case output disc parking brake every now and then wondering about re-engineering them.
They make one for the NP205 and several for various Toyota's.
The brackets are CNC cut flat steel.
The calipers are 100% mechanical.
If there is enough interest they might make some for the Dana 20, they already make kits to fit other rare 4x4's.

http://www.tsmmfg.net/transfer-case-pb.html

The make one for the Ford 9 inch too. Don't look good for a rock crawler but for a street/light offroad machine, looks inviting.
http://www.tsmmfg.net/mb3.html

Their not the only game in town on the driveshaft E-brakes. I've seen pictures of ones that side mount on the 9 thus giving more clearance. Also read something about Rovers using them behind the T-case.

Is there a reason no one's running these type e-brakes? Had my rig roll off down across my yard a few years back. Ended up jumping a ditch crossing a road and into another ditch. Clipped a tree along the way. Left it in second gear when I parked. Had the E-brake set but it didn't help. Got luck, no damage to the rig. The tree is still recovering.

Tim

 

[ntsqd]

Floor clearance is the usual reason cited for not using a t-case located pinon/drive-shaft p-brake.

High Angle Drive-line has or had such an offering, though I don't recall the applications offered.

 

[badmuttstang]

For some reason looking at that set up from TSM made me think of a thread from back in 2009 where jdcone listed use of a golf cart 6" disc brake being a good t case ebrake can't do a quote on the thread so here's the whole thing. Its a vast knowledge of junkyard score's he lists it in the first post if you only want to read that far but it doesn't say how to hook it up they do look really similarly after I did a search.

John

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=137398&highlight=junkyard+steals