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EDIS, SEFI & A9l. No spark or inj pulse

nvrstuk

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Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
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Any EDIS & A9L gurus reading?

I posted this on my build thread also.

My 464 sb engine is installed. SEFI, EDIS, A9L w/Jchip burned with permanent tune.

** Ran perfect with all this installed the last 7 yrs.

Turn the key to on. Fuel pump primes 2-3 sec, builds pressure, starter sounds perfect, no spark or gas. Zip!

All I had to do was connect all this stuff to what I disconnected it from last fall.

- Checked all grds.

- checked & have 12v to inj

- checked & have 12v to both coil packs

Zip for spark & Fuel in engine

Have a couple spare ecu's so what the heck, I'll try one of them.

-swapped ecu's with my perm chip. No spark or fuel.

Garry said dbl check 12v pwr to edis since it controls this... yeah, it has 12v with it's grd in the plug.


So today I swapped out my EDIS, ecu & crank sensor.

No spark or fuel yet coils have 12v & inj have 12v.

Like a great "Barn Find" it worked great when I shut it off last fall. lol
I did nothing to this SEFI/EDIS wiring other than I might have bumped it when mucking under the dash last winter.
 

73azbronco

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double check the connector/wiring/circuits. If you have a new ecu and all sensors, something must be disconnected in the crank sensor circuit

Its been a decade since working this stuff but shouldnt there be a way to force a spark pulse from computer? I'd also be looking open circuits in run/on of ignition circuit.

My one bet is its also something really really simple not right.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I peeled the wiring harness back and tracked the shielded crank sensor wire back to the ecu. All good visually.

I need to figure out if the crank sensor wires fo to the ecu first or the edis so I can do a continuity test.

I agree on something simple causing this... just not easy finding it! lol


Done swapping parts- going to try to follow any wire that looks like its got a connection or splice or ???

I looked at the ign switch yesterday but that is a hard object to see from 3" away!! lol
 
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DirtDonk

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Could the cam sensor have gone bad? Weird things happen when sitting…
I think there’s a pulse test you can do with the engine cranking, isn’t there?
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Some NOID tester tool..or a square wave reading scope.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Garry is saying that it's wiring, EDIS, or crank sensor.
I've checked the EDIS for voltage and I've swapped in a different one.I've checked the crank sensor wiring as good as I could and put a new one in and nothing...

Can't find any wiring issues but something happened over the winter I'm assuming when I was under the dash rewiring one switch is my guess.

I keep looking... but find nothing.

So to follow the definition of insanity I will keep looking and hope I do find something. l o l

Latest test- I have 10.8v to the coil when cranking.
 

DirtDonk

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I was gonna ask if you had tested while cranking also. Looks like you’ve already got that covered.
10.8 isn’t too bad while the starter is engaged, but make sure all the power is getting to all the correct terminals, all while the key is in the crank position.
My guess is that if it doesn’t get to just one component it could mess things up. But really, does it only have to get to the computer and everything else is good?
If so, where did you measure from? Did you get the 10.8 V at the battery?
Maybe the ECM relay is losing power while cranking.
 

rocknhorse76

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Ok Brian, you HAVE to tell everyone what you found to be the problem today! Maybe a couple plugs crossed up? 😂🤣
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Not sure about that... :)
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I was gonna ask if you had tested while cranking also. Looks like you’ve already got that covered.
10.8 isn’t too bad while the starter is engaged, but make sure all the power is getting to all the correct terminals, all while the key is in the crank position.
My guess is that if it doesn’t get to just one component it could mess things up. But really, does it only have to get to the computer and everything else is good?
If so, where did you measure from? Did you get the 10.8 V at the battery?
Maybe the ECM relay is losing power while cranking.
12.8 V at the battery but the voltage I recorded for the coils was during cranking so I'm sure that's why there is some voltage loss. I think it had 12v when it wasn't cranking yesterday.
 

36Fan

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Mine did something similar, it was the inertia switch had been tripped. Not sure if you have one or not.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I do but it's wired to only shut the fuel pump off... but I checked it again since I was "wandering about" looking for potential issues.
 

ksagis

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Sounds like you swapped in known good ECUs but moved the Jchip into each of the swapped ECUs with no joy? If so, could the Jchip fail in a way that it is the issue, so the problem remains?
 
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