EFI my EB w/ 5.0HO Throttle Body and EDIS

[Rkilpatrickii]

I am using auto tune, in Fuel Table 1 and it is running pretty awesome, but a little rich. I can't take it out on the road yet because it dyes when I take my foot off the peddle for more than a second. I think it has something to with the PWM idle.

Here's what I get:

This is on a:
347 stroker
Cobra heads (3 bar)
Cobra intake
73mm throttle body (99 mercury mountaineer w/5.0)
80mm MAF (97 F-150 w/5.0)
24lb injectors
Edelbrock long tuned headers
LS2 coils
36-1 crank/cam ignition

 

[EFI Guy]

Keep in mind, I have no Experience with MS, but here's my advice.

Unplug the IAC completely, adjust the throttle screw until it will just barely run on it's own. Then reset your TPS. See what rpms it barely runs at and enter that value in to your RPM closed box.
Then plug it back in and set your desired idle speed. Ideally you will be at 35% duty cycle at desired idle speed, if there are no adders like dashpot in effect.

 

[Rkilpatrickii]

I read this last night and it didn't make much since. But with a little sleep...
That is a great ideal.

 

[Rkilpatrickii]

I going to run some more test. I want to find out if this thing has a particular polarity. I looked everywhere on the internet and couldn't find anything, so at the time i didn't think it mattered. I just connected the thick red wire to 12v and the thin white stripe wire to the ECU. So when I was running my original test at the set up, I wasn't sure what i should see on the PWM idle valve. As far as I can tell, it may not be working at all right now.

With it off of the throttle body;
Under Output test mode (PP2 Idle):

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369787895.470535.jpg (232.05 KiB) Viewed 18 times
On = I see or hear nothing
Pulse = I can hear and feel it is on, but see nothing
Off = a nice clear clunk, but I still can't see anything.
(The same thing happens if I run it inverter)

In idle test:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369787947.887924.jpg (227.06 KiB) Viewed 18 times
On = nothing
Off = clunk sound
(Inverted: nothing happens)

I'm not sure if I am using these test correctly, but it seems cut and dry.

 

[EFI Guy]

Referring to IAC in steps is a GM thing, and is Greek to me. Ford IACs run off of duty cycle rather than position. So testing it at 150% duty cycle wouldn't make much sense, 100% would be the max (open 100% of the time).

Also vacuum is required on the correct side of the valve to aid it in closing, I'm not sure how well bench testing one would go. It sounds like you have it wired correctly, just make sure it's installed correctly (not backwards). Then see if it changes idle speed at idle.

 

[Rkilpatrickii]

Ya, I ran some more test last night, and decided it was broke. I tried everything, I even try tapping the leads on the battery. I bolted it back to the throttle body. I was going try what u first suggested but first I wanted to try one more thang. I got a new set of numbers from one of the mustang forums. http://www.theturboforums.com/threads/344810-Ford-Mustang-Idle-Control-Valve-with-Megasquirt
I started it up, and took my foot off the gas, (I was going to jump out and start adjusting the stop screw on the throttle body) and I watched the RPMs drop down to almost 500 when, the my supersize the RPMs stated going back up. The RPMs went to almost 800 before it started to drop again and settle right at 750, just what I wanted.

So I still want to say thank, without guys like u, guys like me would be totally lost.