EFI swap, darn thing won't run right

[racebronco]

found out I was checking the codes the wrong way, they were flashing way too fast & didn't slow down even after 5 minutes.. it was flashing about 10x a second.. anyways, got the codes finally, 22-map out of range (has new map), 51- -40degrees or ECT open, 53-TPS open/above max voltage, 54-ACT circuit open, & 98-a/f mixture not within range. by these readings I believe my computer has failed. I checked all the connections & pinned out the wires again. all ok. I must of shortedout the computer sometime while installing it. I'll let U know when I get another one.

 

[IPwizard]

Sounds like your getting the same thing I was when mine failed, kept showing sensors bad when they were new. You could have shorted it or it could have been bad when you got it. I'm pretty sure i toasted mine when I gave a lady a jump start. After that all my problems started.

The EEC is pretty tough but it is electronic so it can be sensitive also.

 

[racebronco]

Sounds like your getting the same thing I was when mine failed, kept showing sensors bad when they were new. You could have shorted it or it could have been bad when you got it. I'm pretty sure i toasted mine when I gave a lady a jump start. After that all my problems started.

The EEC is pretty tough but it is electronic so it can be sensitive also.

I probably shorted it when istalling it, but not sure, didn't really run the car much more than from the trailer into the garage before I stripped it.. got one frome the junkyard, gonna try it tonight.. wish me luck, I'm looking foward to wheeling 2morrow..!!

 

[SaddleUp]

found out I was checking the codes the wrong way, they were flashing way too fast & didn't slow down even after 5 minutes.. it was flashing about 10x a second.. anyways, got the codes finally, 22-map out of range (has new map), 51- -40degrees or ECT open, 53-TPS open/above max voltage, 54-ACT circuit open, & 98-a/f mixture not within range. by these readings I believe my computer has failed. I checked all the connections & pinned out the wires again. all ok. I must of shortedout the computer sometime while installing it. I'll let U know when I get another one.

Either wiring or a bad ecm. When I first installed mine it threw several codes which I corrected by narrowing down which ones were throwing the codes and then checking the wires for them. In all cases it was just a matter of seating the pins for that sensor in the ecm plug better. If you can do this with one or two sensors and have the codes disappear then I would look at all of the wiring closer. The TPS one looks suspicious though. I believe earlier you said it was at about 1.5 volts. (Too high as it should be at less than 1 volt at an idle) This would not be out of range though. To show as too high it would need to put out 5 volts or more. (5 volts is full throttle) These two figures don't coincide.

 

[jvanderveen]

your tps needs to be right at .999 volts. no joke it will really mess with throttle response if it isnt. oh and any of the ron morris. eliminator stuff like for the egr. you just pull the parts and install a 10k ohm 5 watt resistor between the 2 sensor wires. cut the wires and attach to each end of the resistor. that really all thats in the kit.

 

[IPwizard]

your tps needs to be right at .999 volts. no joke it will really mess with throttle response if it isnt. oh and any of the ron morris. eliminator stuff like for the egr. you just pull the parts and install a 10k ohm 5 watt resistor between the 2 sensor wires. cut the wires and attach to each end of the resistor. that really all thats in the kit.

The kit does come with a plate that goes between the T-body and the intake not sure if this really is needed tho. If its not needed then you could save $70 and make a trip to radio shack for the resistors.

 

[ransil]

your tps needs to be right at .999 volts. no joke it will really mess with throttle response if it isnt. oh and any of the ron morris. eliminator stuff like for the egr. you just pull the parts and install a 10k ohm 5 watt resistor between the 2 sensor wires. cut the wires and attach to each end of the resistor. that really all thats in the kit.

I thought the resistor needed to be 75 ohm?

 

[ransil]

I thought the resistor needed to be 75 ohm?

Just looked it up, look like it needs a voltage reference.

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=6

 

[SaddleUp]

Here is an pic I tossed together showing all of the required resistors and the diagram to eliminate the check engine light if the smog controls are removed. Note the upper diagram is from http://fordfuelinjection.com. The remaining list of resistors is also from information that was once posted there.

Note: The resistors do not necessarily need to be exact. When I did mine I got as close as I could by either finding a resistor or in some cases mulitple resistors that were rated for a minimum of the amps listed and that were close to the listed ohms. I.E. If it says 1/2 watt that is just a minimum. If it said 75 Ohms and I could only find 70 and 80 then I bought both and then used whichever one worked.It took a little trial and error but after an hour or so I had them in and the check engine light was off.

 

[racebronco]

well, I went to the pick a part & picked up another computer from a '90 towncar & a new tps(it kept giving screwy readings). it runs much better now, I was actually able to drive it to the gas station. it is giving me codes still, some I know don't matter. 22-map sensor out of range, 31-egr valve position voltage low, 81,82,84 & 85 KOEO codes & 22 & 31 memory codes.
I plan on doing the resistor thing for the egr. but can't figure out why it keeps giving me a MAP fault. the MAP sensor is new & hooked up to vacuum. it idles eraticaly & fluctuates between 1000-1300 rpm as well the vacuum does the same between about 12 & 18".. looking @ fordfuelinjection.com it gives the map reading in hertz, does anyone have any voltage readings I can use as reference?? also, what are U guys getting for vacuum @ idle??
thanx for any input, it's been a lot of help.

on a side note, I picked up a HO computer & MAF sensor from a 93 t-bird (P3M) @ the pick-a-part & it has a hypertech chip on it already. can I send it back to them for them to re-program??
thanx again..

 

[IPwizard]

Did you have any luck getting your problems resolved?

 

[racebronco]

Mainly having the idle problem still with the code 22 for the MAP sensor & it's running extremely rich still. I managed to burn about 4-5 gallons just letting it idle for about 2 hours.. I'm gonna get some resistors this week & see if that makes a difference..

 

[IPwizard]

Courious, is your setup for Mass air or SD?

What is your EEC program code?

Just didnt see a mass air meter in the pic you posted earlier, and I wasnt sure if the towncar was DS or MAF.

 

[racebronco]

Courious, is your setup for Mass air or SD?

What is your EEC program code?

Just didnt see a mass air meter in the pic you posted earlier, and I wasnt sure if the towncar was DS or MAF.

currently speed density, but I did pick up a MAF setup to upgrade to later.
don't remember the program code, I'll try try to look tonight.

 

[ProjectEB]

First time poster, long time reader. I am currently a ford calibrator and before that a ford tech but I havent worked on gasoline in years and EEC-IV even longer than that so feel free to call me out on anything I get wrong but I wanted to chime in on this one. Since you keep getting MAP codes where are you pulling the MAP signal from? Is it from the stock location? If so try unplugging the MAP and see how it runs. This will set the computer into default mode and should clear the problem up somewhat if the MAP system is at fault. Also if you want to know what the MAP sensor is seeing it should be checked with a DVOM capable of measuring frequency(see below). I am assuming you have the chart for your elevation so I wont go over that.
Have you checked the timing to make sure you are near spec? What is the ignition timing timing doing during this whole ordeal with and without spout installed? The idle vacuum sounds a little low so maybe you have a timing issue/firing order/vacuum leak concern. It might be time to get out the propane.

Edit:
I looked through some old books and found a voltage chart for the MAP sensor:
Altitude (ft) Voltage(+/- .04V)
0 1.59
1000 1.56
2000 1.53
3000 1.50
4000 1.47

These readings are for key on engine off.

 

[racebronco]

Courious, is your setup for Mass air or SD?

What is your EEC program code?

Just didnt see a mass air meter in the pic you posted earlier, and I wasnt sure if the towncar was DS or MAF.

EEC program code is currently M0Z2 computer is F0VF-12A650-AC

First time poster, long time reader. I am currently a ford calibrator and before that a ford tech but I havent worked on gasoline in years and EEC-IV even longer than that so feel free to call me out on anything I get wrong but I wanted to chime in on this one. Since you keep getting MAP codes where are you pulling the MAP signal from? Is it from the stock location? If so try unplugging the MAP and see how it runs. This will set the computer into default mode and should clear the problem up somewhat if the MAP system is at fault. Also if you want to know what the MAP sensor is seeing it should be checked with a DVOM capable of measuring frequency(see below). I am assuming you have the chart for your elevation so I wont go over that.
Have you checked the timing to make sure you are near spec? What is the ignition timing timing doing during this whole ordeal with and without spout installed? The idle vacuum sounds a little low so maybe you have a timing issue/firing order/vacuum leak concern. It might be time to get out the propane.

Edit:
I looked through some old books and found a voltage chart for the MAP sensor:
Altitude (ft) Voltage(+/- .04V)
0 1.59
1000 1.56
2000 1.53
3000 1.50
4000 1.47

These readings are for key on engine off.

awsome info. I'll check the map tonight. also, I'm running an edlebrock performer cam with performer heads so that might be why my vacuum is kinda low. when I had it set @ about 10degrees btdc I only had about 14", but set it till I had the most vacuum @ 16.5". I also cannot see my timing pointer because my water hose is in the way, so I have to do it from undernieth & I get it as close as I can..

 

[racebronco]

I was trying to check the map sensor & was measuring between the green wire & ground & getting 4.9 volts. I unplugged it I measured the pins to the cmputer & am getting 4.9v for the orange/white wire & also getting 4.9 for the green wire..//?? this does not sound right so I pulled the connector on the computer & checked continuity between the two wires. nothing. I even cut the wire near the computer & checked it there plugged in, still getting 4.9 volts. swapped in old computer & got 5.0 volts. are both my computers screwed or is this normal???.?
also, was I checking the map right?? bewteen the green wire & ground??
thanx

 

[IPwizard]

I dont know if this helps or not.

http://www.autoclassroom.com/2007/01/use_the_map_sensor_as_a_vacuum.html

 

[ProjectEB]

With the key on and the map plugged in you should be checking the middle pin. I dont know what color that wire is. With the MAP unplugged and the key on, one of the pins should be VREF(around 5V) and the one the opposite side should be near zero. If that isnt the case you have a wiring problem.
That being said the speed density system is extremely sensitive to modifications that affect volumetric efficiency. It does not deal well with mods like the ones you have made. If I had to guess I would say that you need to go to the MAF system to get it running better with this head/cam combo.

 

[oldiron]

second

I would second what project said. SD systems respond very poorly to VE changes, or any change that increases airflow over a given range. If you have the pieces together, go the MAF route to take advantage of your changes instead of them crippling you.
HTH
Greg