Electrical Gurus Please help

[dgold_881]

Let me first say that my bronco was running fine up until the other day. I think I have a slow battery drain somewhere but haven’t been able to locate it. I tried to start it and nothing, doesn't turn over. I replaced the battery thinking the 3 yrs of constantly draining the battery wasn’t good and still nothing. I was able to jump start it from the starter solenoid and it starts right up. Also when I was installing the new battery when connecting the positive terminal up I was getting a slight tingle shock from my arm leaning on the fender. No metal touching just my arm. Is this normal? The only things I can think left to replace now are the starter switch and the neutral safety switch? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[707Bronk]

It sounds like maybe the starter solenoid or the ignition switch. You may also have parasitic drains.

Just to rule them out though I would start testing the solenoid and ign switch.

 

[dgold_881]

How do you test the solenoid?

It sounds like maybe the starter solenoid or the ignition switch. You may also have parasitic drains.

Just to rule them out though I would start testing the solenoid and ign switch.

 

[ransil]

pull the brown wire off the solenoid check the voltage on it , should have battery voltage on it only when the key is in the start position.

Pass - solenoid is probably bad
Fail - wire or ignition switch

 

[Viperwolf1]

1) Check if headlights work. If not, problem is battery cables, cable connections, or fusible link.

2) Does solenoid click or engage when key is moved to start? If not, problem is broken or misadjusted NSS, bad ignition sw, or wiring between both.

Ransil meant to say red-blue wire not brown wire.

 

[Steve83]

I think I have a slow battery drain...

Exactly what makes you think that?

...haven’t been able to locate it.

Exactly how did you try to locate the drain?

I tried to start it and nothing, doesn't turn over.

"Nothing" meaning no dash activity, radio, lights, etc., and no response when turning the key? Or "nothing" meaning it spins but doesn't light off & idle? Be VERY specific - we can't see or hear what you do.

I replaced the battery thinking the 3 yrs of constantly draining the battery wasn’t good...

It's not, but that doesn't mean the battery was ruined.

I was able to jump start it from the starter solenoid...

"Jump starting" means from another vehicle or battery; if you only bridged the starter relay, that's not a "jump start".

Also when I was installing the new battery when connecting the positive terminal up I was getting a slight tingle shock from my arm leaning on the fender. No metal touching just my arm. Is this normal?

Yes, that's what 12V going through 1' of skin feels like; sort of like 9V through 1/4" of tongue.

The only things I can think left to replace...

STOP thinking of replacing parts. Think of logically diagnosing the problem, and replacing as FEW parts as possible.

Once the truck is running right, you can start replacing things as your budget allows, but don't waste that money on stuff you don't need. It just makes diagnosis more difficult.

 

[dgold_881]

I'm getting no click when turning the switch to start. All the gauges dash lights and ACC work fine.

1) Check if headlights work. If not, problem is battery cables, cable connections, or fusible link.

2) Does solenoid click or engage when key is moved to start? If not, problem is broken or misadjusted NSS, bad ignition sw, or wiring between both.

Ransil meant to say red-blue wire not brown wire.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Try starting with the trans in neutral. If it starts the NSS is out of adjustment or bad.

 

[dgold_881]

Tried that same result. No click gauges lights ect work

Try starting with the trans in neutral. If it starts the NSS is out of adjustment or bad.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Do the voltage check on the red-blue wire with key turned to START.

 

[dgold_881]

Exactly what makes you think that? Because the battery is usually dead in about a week.
Exactly how did you try to locate the drain?"Nothing" meaning no dash activity, radio, lights, etc., and no response when turning the key? Or "nothing" meaning it spins but doesn't light off & idle? Be VERY specific - we can't see or hear what you do.It's not, but that doesn't mean the battery was ruined."Jump starting" means from another vehicle or battery; if you only bridged the starter relay, that's not a "jump start".Yes, that's what 12V going through 1' of skin feels like; sort of like 9V through 1/4" of tongue.STOP thinking of replacing parts. Think of logically diagnosing the problem, and replacing as FEW parts as possible.

Once the truck is running right, you can start replacing things as your budget allows, but don't waste that money on stuff you don't need. It just makes diagnosis more difficult.

All lights, turn signals etc work. When you turn the key to start it doesn't click it doesn't do anything but give power to the radio and anything else I turn on. The engine simply doesn't crank over when you turn the key nor does it make a sound.

 

[Viperwolf1]

NSS adjustment:

Loosen the 2 small bolts holding the NSS. Place trans in neutral (block wheels first). Insert small pin (drill bit) in hole in side of NSS. Adjust NSS body back and forth until pin can be pushed into hole approximately 1/2". Tighten NSS bolts.

 

[dgold_881]

Ok I'm getting 12.5v from that wire with the key turned on?

Do the voltage check on the red-blue wire with key turned to START.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Ok I'm getting 12.5v from that wire with the key turned on?

You mean the START position? That means the solenoid is bad or it has a bad ground.

 

[dgold_881]

Yes sorry

You mean the START position? That means the solenoid is bad or it has a bad ground.

 

[Steve83]

With the key in START, and the starter NOT spinning (fault mode), test voltage from the battery negative post 1) to the starter relay body, and 2) to the starter relay stud with the starter wire.

BTW
You're not doing your starter or battery any favors with those battery clamps with wing nuts. Everything would work better with soldered clamps, and they're affordable - probably cheaper than yours were.



But if you're dead-set on keeping those, at least add some THICK washers so the wingnuts apply force to the whole lead pad at the base of the stud.