Electrical Help

[Bronco919]

Hi everyone,

Finally got the Bronco running again after 2 years. (WOO!!!) But here's the problem list:

When I rev the engine, the volt meter also increases to around 18 volts. Is my regulator shot?

And I moved the old regulator over on the firewall to make room for the duraspark ignition module and the cigar shaped ground wire broke off. (Could be the reason for above?) Do I need this or can I just ground it without the cigar shaped thingy?

Oh and I used to post here several years ago when the bronco was running, but I've forgotten my username.

Sam
Houston, Texas

 

[Bronco919]

Looks like that "cigar" shaped object is what reduces the voltage? Cuz that wire going into it is hot. Had to find out the hard way. But I will take it up to the parts store to identify what it is...

 

[Bronco919]

Ok, got more news. They called it a condenser, but they found it on the ignition section of their book. The replacement they gave me is a different size; they were also not sure if this is what I needed either. Is it time for a 1 wire alternator? Do they sell a 1 wire 3g alt that works with a v-belt setup? Any help is appreciated!

Sam

 

[NJ Bronco]

I am having the SAME EXACT problem. Let me know how things work out!! Im very close to picking up a 140amp, one-wire powermaster from summit.

 

[Mr Joe]

It was my understanding that the condenser on the regulator housing was for radio noise surpression.... correct me if I'm wrong, but it's not causing your problem. Measure the voltage with a voltmeter at the battery when it's running.

 

[broncow72]

Hi everyone,

Finally got the Bronco running again after 2 years. (WOO!!!) But here's the problem list:

When I rev the engine, the volt meter also increases to around 18 volts. Is my regulator shot?

And I moved the old regulator over on the firewall to make room for the duraspark ignition module and the cigar shaped ground wire broke off. (Could be the reason for above?) Do I need this or can I just ground it without the cigar shaped thingy?

Oh and I used to post here several years ago when the bronco was running, but I've forgotten my username.

Sam
Houston, Texas

Where in Houston are you, I might be able to swing by and give a hand if needed.

 

[RRRAAAYYY2]

When you moved the regulator, did you leave it plugged in? If so you likely blew it up already when you bolted it down. Get them to test your old regulator. If it is defected, get a new one, and absolutely make sure you bolt it in place before you plug the wires into it.

As for the one wire alternators from Summit, I will give you a better alternator at a better price. Call me at 1-888-214-7774 if you are interested.

 

[taxx]

Must be that time of the year for this too. Mine is doing the exact same thing, 18 volts at the battery when you give it a little juice. Just started Friday so I parked it till I can fix it.

I plan to swap the regulator as that is its job, but I wonder if it was the alternator that fried the regulator by throwing too much at it in the first place? Or is it just time for a new regulator?

My alt is only about 8 or 9 months old and the reg is god knows how old. The reg is only a $10 part but I don't want to keep frying them if there is another problem.

 

[RRRAAAYYY2]

Must be that time of the year for this too. Mine is doing the exact same thing, 18 volts at the battery when you give it a little juice. Just started Friday so I parked it till I can fix it.

I plan to swap the regulator as that is its job, but I wonder if it was the alternator that fried the regulator by throwing too much at it in the first place? Or is it just time for a new regulator?

My alt is only about 8 or 9 months old and the reg is god knows how old. The reg is only a $10 part but I don't want to keep frying them if there is another problem.

A bad rotor can fry a regulator, but generally speaking it is the regulator that throws things at the alternator. It controls the output of the alternator by sending a certain amount of current to the rotor for a certain amount of time.
The regulator turns itself on and off several times (upto 333) times a second. When it is off it reads the voltage in the system, and then adjusts how long it should turn itself back on for. If the voltage is low, it turns itself on for a longer period of time. If the voltage is high it turns itself on for a less amount of time. Regulators can and do fail and either don't turn on at all, or stay turned on to long, causing the voltage to climb, commonly called full fielding. In this case they go all out and the faster you spin them the higher the voltage.
Now if it is getting a faulty value for system voltage, i.e. resistance due to bad wiring, it will turn on longer and make the system voltage go to high, usually a steady 16,17, etc reading. Likewise if a battery is faulty, it will trick an alternator into charging to high. Also if the alternator is charging anything over 15.3 it will damage the battery very quickly.

Last but not least, if you buy a $10 regulator, you will experience a much higher rate of failure than if you bought a $15.00 regulator. Make sure you bolt it in place before you plug it in.

 

[Bronco919]

I still haven't put on the new "condensor" if that's what it actually is, but after re-doing the ground, it only ticks back and forth 14-16. From what RRRAAAYYY2 says 15.3 is the max, is 16 pushing it too much?

Thanks for the help.

Sam

 

[taxx]

A bad rotor can fry a regulator, but generally speaking it is the regulator that throws things at the alternator. It controls the output of the alternator by sending a certain amount of current to the rotor for a certain amount of time.
The regulator turns itself on and off several times (upto 333) times a second. When it is off it reads the voltage in the system, and then adjusts how long it should turn itself back on for. If the voltage is low, it turns itself on for a longer period of time. If the voltage is high it turns itself on for a less amount of time. Regulators can and do fail and either don't turn on at all, or stay turned on to long, causing the voltage to climb, commonly called full fielding. In this case they go all out and the faster you spin them the higher the voltage.
Now if it is getting a faulty value for system voltage, i.e. resistance due to bad wiring, it will turn on longer and make the system voltage go to high, usually a steady 16,17, etc reading. Likewise if a battery is faulty, it will trick an alternator into charging to high. Also if the alternator is charging anything over 15.3 it will damage the battery very quickly.

Last but not least, if you buy a $10 regulator, you will experience a much higher rate of failure than if you bought a $15.00 regulator. Make sure you bolt it in place before you plug it in.

Well just to be safe I am gonna have the alternator checked first and see what it is doing before I just replace the regulator.

 

[RRRAAAYYY2]

I still haven't put on the new "condensor" if that's what it actually is, but after re-doing the ground, it only ticks back and forth 14-16. From what RRRAAAYYY2 says 15.3 is the max, is 16 pushing it too much?

Thanks for the help.

Sam

Yes fore sure. The 15.3 figure is for good quality batteries as well. If you have cheap batteries it is more like 14.7, closer to 14.1 if they are really cheap.
If redoing the ground helped, I would try redoing the ground again. And any other grounds that you can find. Actually you might want to check all of your connections and wiring. Here is a link on how to do voltage drop testing, something I strongly recommend you do:
http://www.svapowerproducts.com/html/voltage_drop.html
If you have one spot that is bad, you likely will have many more. Hopefully you find more good news than bad with the test.