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Engine Block Cleaning

Puritan21

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2003
Messages
64
Loc.
hour from St.Louis
What do you guys use to get the engine block clean enough for paint?

I have removed the intake, heads, oil pan, timing cover, and would like to clean the block before taking it to a machine shop.
 

TN1776

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 24, 2006
Messages
2,632
I'd let the machine shop tank the block. That should get it clean enough for paint. Otherwise, something like Superclean should cut the grease, then wipe the block down with lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol to remove any residue from the cleaner to allow for paint to adhere. POR-15 makes a couple of good prep products for this purpose as well.
 

brian72

Early Bronco Student
Joined
Jun 18, 2001
Messages
4,157
good answer - I got mine as clean as possible then hit it with a wire wheel and then cleaned it again. what a mess in the garage.:p
 

broncosbybart

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 13, 2002
Messages
2,644
what all are you going to have the shop do? we used to bake the block then bead blast it. of course, it involved a complete machining job and thorough cleaning after.

if you're not going that route you could use thinner with a scrub brush/wire wheel. you could then use brake kleen or if you have a spray bomb, you could just fill it with thinner and use paper towels. last thing would be to go back to thinner and blow it dry with your air hose.

edit- brian put his post up before me. same process. yes, it makes a mess...
 

mlogan24

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 14, 2001
Messages
1,380
Not to take this too far off topic, but I think this is relevant. Anyone have some tips for cleaning transfer cases at home? I've got a 203 and 205 that I want totally clean before I install them. The two biggest hurdles I've found is how do you clean something that big in an area where you don't want anything running in the gutter and what works to clean out porous cast cases?
 

okorangebrnco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 25, 2004
Messages
1,669
Before machining, My block was put through a process called bake & blast. This process brings the block to 500 degrees and then blasted with steel shot. This process does require machining afterwards. I have also heard of people doings this to transfercases and and transmission cases. I hope this helps, because my block and heads now that i think about it were done and they looked like fresh castings
 

TN1776

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 24, 2006
Messages
2,632
Thanks for the help.....I'll let them tank it. I didn't know if they would get pissed if I brought it in all nasty.

I'm sure your engine is not the nastiest they've seen... If you're worried about it, just call them up and ask "how nasty is too nasty"...

mlogan24 said:
Not to take this too far off topic, but I think this is relevant. Anyone have some tips for cleaning transfer cases at home? I've got a 203 and 205 that I want totally clean before I install them. The two biggest hurdles I've found is how do you clean something that big in an area where you don't want anything running in the gutter and what works to clean out porous cast cases?

When I did mine I picked up an oil absorbent mat from the local auto parts store - like a big thick paper towel that was about 3'x5', set the case on this and scrubbed it like crazy with Superclean (or whatever I had around at the time). I may have done some touch up with carb cleaner or brake cleaner too. This was only because the nearest hot tank was full and I didn't want to wait a week to get my case tanked. I got my case very clean this way, painted it up and it looks great.
 
OP
OP
Puritan21

Puritan21

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2003
Messages
64
Loc.
hour from St.Louis
Does anyone know what the standard rate is for having the bore measured and crank endplay checked? I don't have all the tools necessary (inside mic) to see if it's going to need bored.
 

needabronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 2, 2004
Messages
6,411
Loc.
Prescott/Farmington
To get your bore measured is free. End play is something to check when you are assembling it, so I'm not really sure if they check it... In my experience machine shops will charge a little more if it's really nasty.

On another note I got busy over the holidays and forgot to respond to your PM. I have not torn my engine down yet, so I'm not sure when those parts will be available. I may go back to MO for a free 351W in a couple of months if you still want my parts then... Casey
 

mlogan24

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 14, 2001
Messages
1,380
I'm sure your engine is not the nastiest they've seen... If you're worried about it, just call them up and ask "how nasty is too nasty"...



When I did mine I picked up an oil absorbent mat from the local auto parts store - like a big thick paper towel that was about 3'x5', set the case on this and scrubbed it like crazy with Superclean (or whatever I had around at the time). I may have done some touch up with carb cleaner or brake cleaner too. This was only because the nearest hot tank was full and I didn't want to wait a week to get my case tanked. I got my case very clean this way, painted it up and it looks great.

Sounds exactly like what I need-thanks! Hope you guys aren't getting too blasted by the storms.
 
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