Engine Died on Hwy today - No Spark

[saxman]

Engine died going to work today. Was running fine down here in central Texas. It is getting gas but no spark when I grounded the spark plug to the body. I am getting 12 volts at the battery. I am only getting 10.8 volts at the coil. Is this good/bad and what is my next step? Coil or Dizzy? Dizzy and coil are about 6 years old. It backfired about 10 minutes after I broke down, I tried cranking it and KA-BAM!

Thanks!

 

[Izzy]

What is your setup? EFI? Carp? Duraspark or something more stock?

Check if you are getting spark at the coil and that should help narrow down if it is coil or distributor.

 

[saxman]

How do I check for spark at the coil?

I have the duraspark setup. Stock computer, tfi coil, and a dizzy.

 

[Izzy]

Similar to the spark plug test. Pull the plug from the distributor that goes to the coil.

Ideally, you should use a hei tester from autozone. They are cheap and nice little tools for testing spark.

If not, you can hold the wire close to the distributor cap and see if it sparks while cranking. Make sure you use something to insulate your self, gloves, rubber grip pliers or something.

If you have no spark there, then the issue could be the coil. If you do have spark, then check your rotor, cap, or distributor.

Hope this helps.

 

[iwlbcnu]

I bet I know!!! Pull your cap and see if the rotor is spinning??? I had this happen last year, big kaboom every once in awhile making you think you have fire, but my dizzy shaft broke in half, think the bearing siezed.

 

[saxman]

LOL. Just got back from fishing in Navajo dam, NM. My rotor does not turn so that is good. I will check the coil tonight.

-S

 

[Izzy]

Your rotor does or does not turn?

If it DOES turn, go to coil.

If it DOES NOT turn, then you have an issue with the distributor or you could have a nasty problem with the cam gear.

The rotor should always turn since it is a mechanical operation based on the cam turning.

 

[saxman]

Your rotor does or does not turn?

If it DOES turn, go to coil.

If it DOES NOT turn, then you have an issue with the distributor or you could have a nasty problem with the cam gear.

The rotor should always turn since it is a mechanical operation based on the cam turning.

Sorry I was not clear. I just tried to move the rotor with my hand while standing in front of the engine, it did not turn. I think we want it to turn when I am cranking the engine on startup. Correct?

 

[Izzy]

Yes, leave the cap off and watch it while you crank the engine. It should turn

 

[WILDHORSES]

I remember a timing chain set coming apart on the highway. Just stopped running. No noise or nothing. The large gear just broke up in pieces.

Rotor spinning when cranking =small problem
Rotor not spinning=larger problem.

Hope for smaller, good luck.

 

[saxman]

I remember a timing chain set coming apart on the highway. Just stopped running. No noise or nothing. The large gear just broke up in pieces.

Rotor spinning when cranking =small problem
Rotor not spinning=larger problem.

Hope for smaller, good luck.

Looks like it is the bigger problem. I pulled the dizzy and part of the gear is broken off, about a quarter of it. Why did this happen and how do I clean the small parts out?

The motor is a rebuilt 351W that I put in in 2006. The dizzy was a reman for autozone, hmmm, oh well.

Is this easier to pull the engine or just take it apart as is?

Thanks,
SS

 

[Broncobowsher]

Now the big question is if it hurt the gear on the cam. It probably did, now you need a cam. That involves pulling the ting cover which means disturbing the oil pan, not a bad thing as you should drop the pan and pick out the pieces anyway. To get the cam out the lifters need to come out, so off comes the valve covers and intake. At this point you pretty much have is stripped down to a long block. If you have the cherry picker and engine stand you might as well use them. How is the rear main seal? You are right there as well.

 

[saxman]

Now the big question is if it hurt the gear on the cam. It probably did, now you need a cam. That involves pulling the ting cover which means disturbing the oil pan, not a bad thing as you should drop the pan and pick out the pieces anyway. To get the cam out the lifters need to come out, so off comes the valve covers and intake. At this point you pretty much have is stripped down to a long block. If you have the cherry picker and engine stand you might as well use them. How is the rear main seal? You are right there as well.

Yea, there are two small knicks in it that I can already see. I would think that any imperfections wold not be good, right?

 

[Broncobowsher]

Correct, any damage will destroy the new gear and end up doing this all over again.

 

[saxman]

so, how far do I go in taking everything apart? All the parts basically need to be bathed and cleaned, right?

 

[Broncobowsher]

so, how far do I go in taking everything apart? All the parts basically need to be bathed and cleaned, right?

Basicly you are doing a cam swap with an oil pan clean out. The big unknown is what things look like once you open it up? It's easy to snowball into a full rebuild.

 

[saxman]

ok, thanks for the info. Do I want to try and find these teeth and then just pull the cam and pan and then look for any physical damage?

 

[broncoitis]

Just pull it apart! The teeth may not have fallen into the pan and could be sitting just behind the cam cover plate that holds the cam in place behind the timing chain. Ya gotta take it all apart either way so may as well get to it. SUCKS that this happened but at least you got it figured out and can get it fixed.

I don't know what kind of shape your truck is in but I did a cam swap and removed the radiator and the front grill from the truck. Removing the front grill will give you more than enough space to work on what you have to. Also alot easier than pulling the engine I think.

Good Luck with the repairs and let us know how it is going. ;D

 

[saxman]

Finally had some time this weekend. Good news!

I pulled the pan and sure enough found the teeth and metal pieces in the front part of the double sump oil pan. I cleaned it out really well and then sprayed the hole where the distributor goes. Recycled my existing oil pan gasket (I had purchased an expensive one with metal washers in it so you can't crush the gasket back in 2006). Anyways, stabbed the new dizzy and the 351 fired right up. I ran it for about 20 minutes and then changed the oil again.

So, I will keep my fingers crossed. Not sure why the steel gear broke.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.

-Sax