Engine died while driving....

[MartyG]

....I've checked and it's getting fuel, I think the culprit might be the distributor.
351w
I've pulled one of the plug wires and there's no spark. Not that long ago I had a mechanic try and fix my vehicle for something else and he put on this distributor and removed my old one along with the coil and the MSD unit (pissed at myself for forgetting to collect those from him). Are you guys seeing any problems in the cap? Do these things go out very often? Its only around 4 months old




I sanded down the rotar but still nothing. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

[Rustytruck]

Pull the rotor off and check for shorts through it. Also check the connections on the module and make sure they are tight and seated properly.

 

[SteveL]

If dizzy has power going in and nothing to plugs could be dead ignition module. Not sure if the hei has it but the stock dizzy has a sheer pin on the dizzy gear that will snap if there's any issue with the oil pump.

 

[Broncobowsher]

The cheap HEIs are known for breaking the rotor shaft. Can you spin the rotor (beyond the play of the centrifugal advance)?

On the cap there are two electrical connections. One should show "BATT" and have battery voltage with the key in run. Check for battery voltage there. If good, remove the wire for "TACH" and check for spark again. Sometimes the tachometer (or tach wiring) goes bad and shorts to ground killing spark.

 

[MartyG]

Hey, thanks Gentlemen...I will check it. Dist. has power, btw. There was an issue with one of the plug caps on the dist having a hole and arcing/grounding out on the hood for a while until we figured it out...maybe that damaged the module?

 

[DirtDonk]

It's entirely possible Marty. Hard to say for sure though, as they do tend to go out on their own as well. Many here are using the HEI setups like yours (even the cheaper ones) with good results for a long time. But just as many have reported problems. Some right out of the box, but usually down the road a piece.
Maybe yours just coincidentally retired with prejudice.%)

But more testing should reveal what's up. The rotor spinning with no resistance is a dead giveaway, or you could spin the motor by hand or with the starter and watch the rotor too. If it does not spin with the engine cranking, that's the issue.

And here's where I will go against the usual admonishment to not just throw parts at a problem without proper diagnosis. Since I'm a believer in having a spare ignition module at all times for just such a reason, a new one installed would not be out of line in my book.
If it runs after the new one, then you know you had a problem with your old one. If not, at least you have a good spare to keep in the glove box.

But if you do change the module, whether from testing or just for throwing some parts at the problem, make sure you follow the instructions. Not sure if it's still the case, but in the past it was an absolutely critical step to put thermal paste (or was it just dielectric grease?) between the module and housing when installing a new one. Early HEI's would kill a module almost as fast as you could start the engine at times!
I'm guessing it's the same procedure nowadays, but it doesn't hurt to double check.

Paul

 

[broncoitis]

Yeah I have to agree with Paul on having a spare Ignition Module and putting on the paste is a must and probably the more the better because I have smoked a couple of them from the heat coming off of the fan from the radiator and they are right there getting blasted!

In fact I relocated mine to the firewall on the drivers side where it would be out of the direct heat! So far so good! The other nice thing about relocating it to me is that if it does go bad for some reason it is a fairly quick swap and you don't have to touch the dizzy and mess up your timing which can be finicky! My .02

 

[MartyG]

Paul...thanks, you're always so great with suggestions and ideas on a problem...it's really appreciated.
I will remove the module...the guy who worked on it says he'll replace it, which is at least some comfort he's standing by his work. I'll make sure to liberally use some dielectric grease.
Broncoitis...thanks as well!

 

[Broncobowsher]

Dielectric grease is wrong.
Thermal transfer grease is correct.
There is a big difference.

 

[MartyG]

Dielectric grease is wrong.
Thermal transfer grease is correct.
There is a big difference.

Excellent...thanks. And where should I put that...all around the ignition coil?

 

[Broncobowsher]

The coil mounts dry.

The thermal transfer grease goes between the module and the aluminum housing of the distributor. You typically get a little pill of the thermal grease inside the box with the new module.

 

[MartyG]

The coil mounts dry.

The thermal transfer grease goes between the module and the aluminum housing of the distributor. You typically get a little pill of the thermal grease inside the box with the new module.

Great...thanks!

 

[broncoitis]

Marty, were you ever able to figure out what the problem was?

 

[MartyG]

Well...originally...the dufas that put in that HEI didn't notice that the boot on one of the plugs was cut from the hood closing on it...thereby grounding it out while the engine was running w/ the hood closed. Haven't replaced that ignition coil yet...will let you all know.