Engine Pricing Opinion

[PolarrrBearrr]

So, I need some opinions here.

I have a '76 with a 302 that I am converting to an EFI 351. I am in the process of working out a deal for the 302. It is (at least as far as I can tell) a stock 302. The cap on the valve cover has an Edelbrock logo on it, but that could mean that the cap was made by Edelbrock and nothing else. (There is a Hurst shifter, so it leads me to believe there may be some aftermarket parts, but other than the cap, I can't find any other markings, though the engine is still in the truck).

At any rate, I started tearing down the truck, and while the engine ran when I got the truck, I can't start it now because the wiring is out of the truck (I had a mess from a plow set-up and had to cut a lot out).

Now, I've talked with the potential buyer, and he is interested, but we are negotiating price. Since he needs to take my word that the engine runs, and he can't do a compression test, he thinks a fair price would be $100 - $150. I was thinking more along the lines of $450. I told him I was willing to negotiate, but I'm not willing to go that low.

From what I understand, he is looking for a 302 for his Mustang (I think it was an early 70's model). I figured he was going to pull the engine and rebuild, even though the engine (as far as I can tell) has no leaks. (Though replacing all the seals on a 30+ year old engine is a good idea anyway).

Am I crazy for asking that much, or is he lowballing me? Or is there some happy medium?

 

[ransil]

you are crazy..........

Non running engine is a core....

I just took 2 to the junk yard to get them out of my way.

 

[BroncoDawg]

You didn't mention if you know the mileage on the motor?
What does the motor look like, leaker or clean?
Edelbrock breather and Hurst shift knob mean nothing.

He's lowballing you if the mileage is low and engine is reasonably clean.
Some sellers get a higher price by offering to by it back if it doesn't run well on fire up, but that's your call. Good luck.

 

[Lebe]

!'d take the $150 and run.

 

[ep67bro]

I think you would be able to get around $200 as a top end price. If it was running and had low mileage maybe a little more.

 

[weasel]

I don't know what the price of a used engine would go for, but couldn't you manual crank the engine for a compresson test, or just use jumper cables from a good battery to the start to do the test even if it is on an engine stand?

Just my though or am i crazy?

 

[Socal Tom]

I was at a junk yard once, and the guy started a 429 on a pallet, with a squirt bottle, a battery some jumper cables and a peice of wire.
If its in the truck, it shouldn't take more than a few minutes to rig a couple of jumpers and battery to start the thing.
Tom

 

[FFMDX]

I sold my running 302 (~80k mi.)out of my '69 minus the carb, exh manifolds for $300. It had a new HV water pump and I had just replaced all the bottom end bearings. That seems to be the going price around here...

Picked-up an efi 5.0 for $350 with all the parts and pieces....

 

[trailpsycho]

Tell him to come to my place I have a 80K mi 5.0 engine and my old 302 and he can have both for free, but I will take his 150 if he'll sleep better.

Now, if it was a fresh engine, it would be worht much more... but as stated above a non-running motor that you have no real history on...you didnt build it, you dont KNOW that its original (and if it were it wouldnt be worth the $150--being that its probably already been built once in its life) and what its mileage, history or compression is.

Take the $150, smile, help him load it and say thanks.

 

[PolarrrBearrr]

I didn't say it didn't run - I said I couldn't start it. I thought there might be a way to start it without some of the wiring, but I wasn't sure.

I'll check the mileage a little later.

 

[recoiljunky]

I've got a similar engine but with no carb or intake that I would give him if he would come pick it up.

You're asking too much.

 

[PolarrrBearrr]

M'okay. I'll drop the price. Thanks guys.

 

[Buldozer]

Yep, unless you want to sell it for a boat anchor, get it running. Like others have said, unless you can produce receipts and can prove it is fresh, it is basically a core (boat anchor). At least that is how it is here. Get that thing running and if it does not burn oil, your price will go up closer to what you are looking for.....maybe just a little less depending on leaks and appearance. Good luck!

 

[needabronco]

Can't start it in almost any book = doesn't run.

The only way to really prove it runs would be to spend 5 minutes with a battery and some jumper cables and start it up.

I sold a 'running' 5.0 long block for $250 once and I was lucky to get that much. I'd say take $150 or haggle to $175 if you feel lucky.

 

[chavis77]

I just paid 250$ for a 87 351w running with water pump pullys 4v intake the hole 9 yards

 

[Broncobowsher]

As others have stated, unless it is running it is a core. I pay between $50 and $200. The $200 was for a 5.0 HO with almost everything (harness, computer, missing the O2s and there harness).

Being a '76 makes wiring the duraspark a little more difficult. Points are a piece of cake.

Getting the engine running should add $50 to $100 to it's value.

As for the aftermarket stuff, it is probably just pretty stuff on top and nothing inside. Unless you have proof otherwise that is all you should try and sell it as. I actually consider the original stuff more valuable because I know there is a better chance it has not been molested inside.