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Explorer rear discs: not working at all! Thoughts???

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chuzie

chuzie

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Well if anyone has a 76/77 rod (manual or power) laying around, how about a measurement? Let's put this to bed once and for all.

I wouldn't say it is worked out quite yet. When I get back into town, I want to take some measurements of my own and determine why Duff's angle bracket is not compatible with the booster they gave me since they don't seem too interested in helping out; other than selling me a new booster and bracket.

Don't get me started on that subject though. It won't be pretty.
 

DirtDonk

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You can always determine how far your existing rod sticks out through the firewall and see if it's compatible?
However, and I hate to volunteer someone else for something I could do myself if I was there, but why not call WH and ask someone what the measurement of our #3052 is?
You might have to wait a bit for an answer, if they have to wait for a convenient time to go grab one and put a tape to it, but at least you'll know then if this rod (which is listed for our own system only) is possibly compatible with what you're planning.

Frankly, I wouldn't expect it to be, from power to manual, but it sure looks to be close.
Might be worth a shot?

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Hold on, I have a couple of rods right here at my desk!
Be right back... After I find my calipers or a tape.

Paul
 
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chuzie

chuzie

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My existing rod looks nothing like the other rods. It has a clevis on the end for the booster.

I have called 3 major MC manufacturers/ reman and none of them carry the data for the rods. Kind of odd since they have to supply the rod with the MC. How do they make sure it is the correct rod?

I almost drove to autozone and ordered 3 MC just to see the 74 manual 76 manual and 77 power rods but it will take a few days to get them in stock.
 

DirtDonk

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Can't find a convenient tape, but my calipers say 5.88" from the inner part of the snap-ring groove (out at the ball tip) to the inner wall of the round bore.
Using a ruler, I come up with 7.25" (very roughly) from ball tip to round tip. I have one that's been shaved down from round to flat, to be more like a stock EB rod, which measures in at roughly 7" from ball tip to flat end.

This is by no means a direct factory replacement rod. Just something we're playing with and the flat end was manually ground down.
Not the same part as the one in our pic previously mentioned. But probably close in size.

Paul
 
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chuzie

chuzie

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Well that is a far cry from the one I found in the shop the other day that was 8-5/8 from ball tip to round tip.

I am inclined to assume the shorter version is old and longer is new accounting for aluminum spacer but that is 100% speculation. Need more data.

Thanks for the numbers Paul. You have us pointed in the right direction now.
 
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chuzie

chuzie

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Re: Explorer rear discs: NO PEDAL!!! Thoughts???

A case of beer to the first person to chime in with the stroke required for an 82 corvette MC.

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DirtDonk

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Actual stroke, or you still wanting the length of the rod?
Might mean the same thing in some conversations, but could be two different functions. So I asked.

Paul
 
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chuzie

chuzie

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Re: Explorer rear discs: NO PEDAL!!! Thoughts???

Actual stroke for full application. I need a target to shoot for if I'm gonna make this stuff work.

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DirtDonk

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Well that is a far cry from the one I found in the shop the other day that was 8-5/8 from ball tip to round tip...

Have you tried the one you found on for size yet? Can't take that long to just slap it on without the switch and see if it has the reach you need.
Especially if you're changing master cylinders anyway.

I do know that a friend's '71 with manual brakes and stock rod was too short for a '67 or so Corvette manual brake master cylinder, with deep piston recess.
So we made a small spacer "pill" to fit inside the piston and take up some of the room.
Similar in design (but a bit shorter) to the one that's included with all of our master cylinder kits. You can see what I'm talking about in this image.
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Hydroboost_Master_Cylinder

Paul
 
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chuzie

chuzie

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Re: Explorer rear discs: NO PEDAL!!! Thoughts???

I am going to try and modify the duff bracket to make it work correctly in spite of the fact that it should have worked correctly from day one. Again, cleaning up other peoples' messes.

To do so, I need to adjust the booster beyond what is available thread-wise on the bracket. Before I start modifying and welding, I need a ballpark stoke target so I don't have to make 3 different mods.

Correct me if I am wrong, but stroke is not necessarily how far the piston in the MC CAN travel but more how much it SHOULD travel.
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DirtDonk

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Well, I guess that would depend on who you're talking about and what the context of the conversation is. "Stroke" could mean either one.
And a manufacturer is only going to know their maximum stroke, with regard to their master cylinder. They literally have no idea what your "effective stroke" will be, in this custom application.

Depends on:

1. size of the tubing.
2. size of the pistons in the caliper(s) and/or slave cylinders.
3. pedal ratio
4. air in the system or not.
5. relative adjustment of drum brakes.
6. general pull-off designed into disc brakes, or the actual pull-off as dictated by the particular installation details.

You know... Stuff like that. ;D

Paul
 
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chuzie

chuzie

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Re: Explorer rear discs: NO PEDAL!!! Thoughts???

Then how do vendors determine how much adjustment to allow in their angle bracket linkage? Seems that if this number were such a large unknown, we would be dealing with inches and inches of clevis adjustment to account for the millions of possibilities.

The MC itself, regardless of any variable beyond the MC, should have a point of piston travel at which fluid pressure/flow peak. Any movement beyond this point will either have no additional effect or potentially a negative effect.

Am I wrong? There has to be a basic magic number. Tell me I am nuts.

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broncnaz

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The spacer in the 78/77 modles tells me they were probably using a 76/77 MC with the earlier rod as the later mc would be for power brakes and have a shallower hole for the rod.
Your 8 5/8" rod sounds about right I just measured the MC off my 71 and thats about what I come up with although I didnt pull the rod out of the piston. But here's another measurement for you. From the MC mounting surface to the center of the hole in the rod I have 7 7/16"
I would just bottom out your MC and measure out what you actually have for stroke. As things can be different with different parts one MC may have 1.5in of stroke but the next may only have 1.2 in of stroke due to different parts used during the build.
You have to figure that the vendors more or less sell setups that are for stock systems and with the adjustments availible that usually covers most setups. Also have to figure that the bell crank also has some leverage ratio built into it as well.


The stroke of a MC is usually not that important but if you have to fully or even half stroke it to get brakes then you have a volumne issue. which means a bigger bore is needed.
there are equasions that will determine what bore size of MC you need. More or less the lenght of the pushord is determined by the pedal ratio. Just need the pedal to bottom out about the same time as the MC does.
 
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chuzie

chuzie

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Just need the pedal to bottom out about the same time as the MC does.

Now that is definitely something I can quantify and make happen. :cool: So screw the number, just make it happen with relation to the pedal travel and stroke available.

Thanks.
 

DirtDonk

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Am I wrong? There has to be a basic magic number. Tell me I am nuts.

Ok, you asked for it. You're nuts... ;D


And I see you have your path laid out now, but I wanted to touch on this "old" business anyway.


Then how do vendors determine how much adjustment to allow in their angle bracket linkage? Seems that if this number were such a large unknown, we would be dealing with inches and inches of clevis adjustment to account for the millions of possibilities.

I'll leave that ultimate answer to someone who does know. I was not involved in the choosing of components, so don't know what all was specified originally. Probably just "stock" as broncnaz said.
These brackets are all at least based on the original. If not exact copies then, they're all very close. So the aftermarket didn't have to think on it too much, unless they were adding variations on the theme.

The specifications of the stock master cylinders were a known commodity too, and were pretty standard based on the design (deep or shallow) of the piston. Again, for static mounting. Not on total travel.

I would still think that "total, or excess travel" is not even in the equation. Only static adjustment. Which would naturally fall into a very narrow range I would think. The adjustments deal with pedal height and starting point only. Not maximum travel. And the master cylinder's piston starts at a known point. Fully released, or rearward in most cases.
The only time you reach maximum travel is during bleeding, or when your brakes fail. And at that point, I don't think it matters much what the total fluid flow and pedal height were. Or whether the piston bottoms out first, or the pedal does.

So given that, a stroke of 1.25" at the master is going to be 7.5" at a Bronco pedal. And that's a LOT!

Although as said above they probably didn't matter in the end, since the full length of the stroke is likely something that nobody wants to contemplate ever being reached. If you have to factor in maximum stroke length, then you've done something wrong with the rest of the system.
If they do factor it in, it's probably "in committee" where the guys designing the pedal box and the guys designing the firewall/floor and the guys spec'ing out the brakes all hash it out over beers and dogs and figure out how, when the brakes fail catastrophically, the pedal will bottom on the floor so the master never reaches it's bottoming out point. By a small fraction of an inch maybe.

A a system such as a hydroboost, with potential damage from over-travel, would need to factor that in. Just in case someone got over-zealous during bleeding, or the system bled down from a leak and someone pushed on the pedal.
Maybe a vacuum booster too. But those could both have been taken care of in the design of the booster as well as the master. Just don't let it break until it passes more than most masters are capable of?
They're all in cahoots somehow!


The MC itself, regardless of any variable beyond the MC, should have a point of piston travel at which fluid pressure/flow peak. Any movement beyond this point will either have no additional effect or potentially a negative effect.

Well, you kind of said it there in your question "no additional" and "negative effect" is basically what you get in a hydraulic system, with regard to stroke. At least when it's all working properly, there is very little to no "additional travel" in the master.

Once you reach that point where your action is what you want it to be (aka braking sufficiently) then there really is not much more stroke going on. Sure, you're moving a bit more fluid and that's pushing the piston a tiny fraction further, but most of what you're doing is simply applying more pressure. Not more travel.
So a lot of what you feel at the pedal too is flex in different components. From the pedal arm, to the firewall, to the linkage, to the soft rubber lines. There is more moving under your foot than just the piston of the master cylinder and fluid in the lines.
Once the friction material hits the friction surface, everything else is just compression and flex.
And fluid does not compress. At least not to the point we'd measure at our level. So most of the rest is just flex.

I'd bet that the amount of additional master piston travel once you're actually braking is less than 1/8" in the master bore. Everything else is just pedal movement.
Except when it's NOT working properly. And though I'm sure the designers wanted to factor in things for when it wasn't working properly, the key parameters were for when it WAS working properly.

It's not the stroke then, or location of the piston that's adding additional braking force. It's the pressure the master is exerting on the fluid, and therefore the slave cylinders (calipers and wheel cylinders).
Ok, so during that time, the piston probably is moving slightly. But it's a pretty darn small amount I'd bet.

If all of that rambling didn't make sense. Welcome to the club!
I just made it up as I went a long...

Paul
 
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chuzie

chuzie

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Damn, you sure type fast Paul.

You make a bunch of valid points and observations. Thanks for taking the time to contribute. I will be sure to let you know how this all turns out on Mon or Tues.
 
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