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F250 shock mounts

Lloyd

Full Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2001
Messages
156
Loc.
Williamsburg, Kentucky
I'm getting ready to install a set of F250 shock mounts on the front of my bronco. I plan on using a grinder to remove the factory mounts as I don't have access to a torch. My question is how much of the factory mounting surface must be ground down?....Or can I cut the factory mount off flush with the top of the frame and attach the F250 mounts on top of what's left of the factory shock mount? Now, how confusing was that question.... I'd also be interested in seeing some pictures of how others have done this conversion. Thanks.
 

76Broncofromhell

Bronco Totalitarian
Joined
Jul 30, 2001
Messages
4,244
Loc.
Reno, NV
Die-grinder with a disc and an air hammer with a cold chisel attachment. You don't even need a torch. Then grind away most of the weld when you get the stock one outta the way. I mounted mine on the frame flush with bolts and welds. Sorry no picture right now.
 

CodeeB

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2001
Messages
706
Loc.
Atlanta
I always grind the weld off of the bottom ,then use a ziz wheel to cut the top weld next to the shoch tower. You don't have to go all the way through. Then take a chisel and break the bottom weld loose and pry the tower up with a crow bar. Usually after prying up and down a time or two they come off.
 

mp

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 22, 2001
Messages
2,914
Loc.
Austin, TX
Lloyd or others

Have you got a part number for the F-250 mounts? Source and price? Thanks!
 

admin

Administrator
Just your friendly, neighborhood webmaster...
Joined
Jan 1, 2001
Messages
38,757
Loc.
Phoenix, AZ
[quote author=mp link=board=5;threadid=15048;start=0#msg113879 date=1047350366]
Lloyd or others

Have you got a part number for the F-250 mounts? Source and price? Thanks!
[/quote]

E5TZ-18183-A

Still available from your dealer. Check around for pricing though. I called 6 dealerships and got 6 different prices, and they were all out of stock or only stocked one. :p

It was actually cheaper to get them through BC Broncos. :)

Couple or write-ups here:
http://classicbroncos.com/webmap/Suspension/Shocks_&_Mounts/
 

Lttrbox

Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2002
Messages
593
Loc.
IF
Agree with above. I just finished this last weekend. Grinded most of the weld out, used a BFH to deal with the top weld. Took alot of time to tack, grind, retack to get the angles correct to work with 9012s and a wristed arm. Oh ya maximum droop and compression also need to be considered. Kinda painful, but worth it.
 
OP
OP
L

Lloyd

Full Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2001
Messages
156
Loc.
Williamsburg, Kentucky
Littrbox, Do you have any tips for proper tower placement...considering compression and droop...while it is still fresh on your mind? How did you go about figuring it all out? thanks
 

admin

Administrator
Just your friendly, neighborhood webmaster...
Joined
Jan 1, 2001
Messages
38,757
Loc.
Phoenix, AZ
[quote author=CodeeB link=board=5;threadid=15048;start=0#msg113856 date=1047348111]
I always grind the weld off of the bottom ,then use a ziz wheel to cut the top weld next to the shoch tower. You don't have to go all the way through. Then take a chisel and break the bottom weld loose and pry the tower up with a crow bar. Usually after prying up and down a time or two they come off.
[/quote]

I just took mine off tonight (well one of them. Damn thing took 45 minutes!)

I used pretty much the above proceedure, except I couldn't get to the top weld (little thing like an engine in the way) so I just cut the bottom weld and air chiseled, then started prying back and forth. Unfortunately when it came off it took the corner of the frame with it. :mad: So just a word of caution; grinding down the top weld is necessary after all. :-X

Here's a pic:
http://classicbroncos.com/img/f250shocks6.jpg
 

admin

Administrator
Just your friendly, neighborhood webmaster...
Joined
Jan 1, 2001
Messages
38,757
Loc.
Phoenix, AZ
The F250 mounts are taller, giving you more room for longer shocks.
 

Lttrbox

Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2002
Messages
593
Loc.
IF
Do you have any tips for proper tower placement...considering compression and droop...while it is still fresh on your mind? How did you go about figuring it all out? thanks

Fortunately, I got some help from the vegas broncos club. My brother, a member, enlisted a long time vet to help with his. His is basically, the same setup as mine. So heres how it went.

Coils out, wristed arm unpinned, jack up one side, and basically guess on the alignment. What I looked for was the shock to move throughout its up down travel with as little movement front to back as possible. Tacked/clamped the tower and lower shock mounts. Lower the axle and jack it back up looking for any binding. Grind tacks off, redo. Several iterations later I found, for my case, the shock tower aligns with the vertical edge of the coil tower. The bottom of the shock tower is approximately half way up the frame. This was done with rancho 9012's.

Once here, I found it necessary to lean the top of the shock tower toward the inner fender such that about 1.4 in gap was present between the bottom of the shock tower and the frame. This move helped the front tire not hit the shock under full compression. BTW, the above testing I did both with and without the tire on when checking the binding/rubbing.

Weld the shock tower in place. Before you ask, yes, that set up is a little weak. I build a reinforcement plate from 3/16 steel that fit side to side from the back side of the coil tower to the side of the shock tower. Welded this in. Absolutely no flex now.

Sorry about the length of this, but placement of these components is important. The above took me on the order of 3 weeks to get correct and finish up. I posted some before and after pics with the above setup under the subject "the rest of the story". I have others if your interested.
 

choppy

New Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2002
Messages
12
Loc.
College Station, TX
I have the dual shock mounts, a taller mount in front of the axle, and a shorter stock mount behing the fron axle. My question is , if I remove the shorter rear (stock) shock and just use the taller front shock on each side, would this be comparable to the F250 mounts? Is there a disadvantage to being mounted in front of the axle? By the way I have a 3.5" lift installed. Thanks for any info.

The pic of my setup can be seen at:
http://www.jamesduff.com/images/eb/5101.jpg
 

LSUpete

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 11, 2001
Messages
2,062
I posted some before and after pics with the above setup under the subject "the rest of the story". I have others if your interested.




I would like to see your photos, but don't understand where you have them posted. Could you please email them to me?

Thanks
 

Lttrbox

Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2002
Messages
593
Loc.
IF
Is there a disadvantage to being mounted in front of the axle? By the way I have a 3.5" lift installed./quote]

The disadvantage is that you will need a longer shock in front. That is, given a shock mounted toward the rear of the axle will yield more axle motion than the same shock mounted in front.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Littrbox,
Please do send me some more pics. by email if you can. I learn much better by seeing things. Nice looking rig, by the way. I can't wait to get mine put back together.
thanks,
Lloyd
 

Lttrbox

Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2002
Messages
593
Loc.
IF
lean the top of the shock tower toward the inner fender such that about 1.4 in gap was present between the bottom of the shock tower and the frame.

I just saw this oops. 1.4 in gap, I really meant 1/4 in gap
 

choppy

New Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2002
Messages
12
Loc.
College Station, TX
So which shock #'s (rancho or bilstein) would be good to use on the front of a dual shock mount (with the rear shock) removed, with stock radius arms and 3.5" lift coils (offset radius arm bushings are installed)? Thanks
 
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