Factory power steering box leak

[broncobuddha]

Fixed one thing and started to move on to a want to have vs a need to have and the next "need" pops up.

Didn't see much on this in the archives....so Here it goes.

Have a factory 76' Power steering box (6 turn) on my 73'.

I'm running and have been running this setup for probably 10 years or more. It's got a saginaw pump that was a boneyard pick from a 94 Ford Van. Also running a 5.0 serp setup.

A while back I noticed the pump groaning majorly whenever even breathing on the steering wheel. Found the pump to be low on fluid. Topped it off. Quieted right up.

Yesterday, was driving around and the groan came back. Pump dry again.

Looking for leaks and it appears to be dripping out the output shaft by the pitman arm.

(I have verified there are no leaks at any of the hose connections on the pump or the box.)

It's definitely coming out of the output shaft part of the housing.

So, questions are, is this likely just a worn seal? Is it easy to replace?

If I decide on a complete rebuild, I don't think I'm going with anything from any of the parts houses and will most likely look to have my box upgraded to a 4 turn box by either Redhead or Blue Top. Anyone have any experience with them?

 

[904Bronco]

My suggestion is that if you go into it, go all the way and have it rebuilt. I have not done one myself, one of those items that I take to an expert...
Too many times my experience is you change a seal and then you disturb something and another leak starts elsewhere.

I was under the impression that all 76/77 PS boxes were all 4 turn boxes?

 

[broncobuddha]

Hmm. I thought they were 6 turns but to be honest I've never really paid attention. Now I'm curious. I'm going to test it later today.

And I think I tend to agree with you. Probably just have it rebuilt.

Blue Top actually offers a 3.5 turn option and a 4.25 turn option in their rebuilds.

 

[Speedrdr]

The 1977 Ford manual ( in amongst the 1200+ pages) it says the PS pump is a 4 turn. Don’t know about the 76.

Randy

 

[thegreatjustino]

73-75 stock boxes were six turn. 76 & 77 were four turn.

Replacing the seal at the pitman arm is simple and can be done with the box still mounted to the frame. Personally I'd try the easy & cheap fix first and see what happens before going to the extent of pulling everything apart and sending it out and spending the money for a rebuild.

 

[broncobuddha]

Thanks, Randy and Justino....

FWIW, I did go out there and though I feel my turning radius had suffered after going to 35s (they rub the stock radius arms) but From lock to lock it was right at about 4 turns. So that's good to know.

I still like the idea of an upgrade especially if I can get a 3 1/2 turn box.

However, I'm going to see what I can find on doing the lower seal. I heard from a buddy of mine who's done them still in the car and apparently it's fairly straight forward. Probably the biggest issue would be getting the pitman arm off.

I'm going to go searching but if anyone has a link to instructions or a video handy, I'd appreciate it.

 

[thegreatjustino]

going to 35s (they rub the stock radius arms)

Adjust your stops on the knuckles.

I'm going to go searching but if anyone has a link to instructions or a video handy, I'd appreciate it.

1. Remove pitman arm
2. Remove snap ring
3. Put a bucket under the steering box
4. Start the Bronco and turn the steering wheel - the pressure from the steering pump will blow the seal out (along with a bunch of fluid, hence the need for a bucket)
5. Turn off Bronco
6. Replace seal
7. Install snap ring
8. Reinstall pitman arm

 

[Speedrdr]

9. Replace PS pump with fluid.

Randy

 

[broncobuddha]

Adjust your stops on the knuckles.



1. Remove pitman arm
2. Remove snap ring
3. Put a bucket under the steering box
4. Start the Bronco and turn the steering wheel - the pressure from the steering pump will blow the seal out (along with a bunch of fluid, hence the need for a bucket)
5. Turn off Bronco
6. Replace seal
7. Install snap ring
8. Reinstall pitman arm

Never adjusted anything on the knuckles. Adjusting the stops will merely stop my tires from hitting the radius arms. It will not give me back my turn radius right? (I presume aftermarket arms will be needed to clear)

Perfect, thanks. I did find a video of a guy doing this on his 69'.

Jeff's kit comes with a new snap ring, 2 seals and 2 washers. Local parts houses like O'Reilly have a kit that doesn't include the washers, just the snap ring and seals. I presume as long as there's no damage, the washers can be reused?
Also, to confirm, the order from the closest to the pitman arm (bottom to top) should be snap ring, washer, seal, washer seal?

 

[DirtDonk]

Never adjusted anything on the knuckles. Adjusting the stops will merely stop my tires from hitting the radius arms. It will not give me back my turn radius right? (I presume aftermarket arms will be needed to clear)

Correct. Right now your tires are the "stops" where adjusting the real stops will simply put them back in the mix and stop your tires from rubbing.
Nothing gets your turning radius back other than either, as you said, aftermarket arms that have been made with the "kink" or elbow shape to allow more tire clearance, smaller tires (not usually an option), or wheels that put the tires further away from the arms with different offset.
The latter method however is not usable in many cases because getting enough clearance for the arms might let the tires hit the body instead. Or just be unusable because they stick too far out.
So all you're doing with adjusting the stops is stopping the tires from hitting.

I had to install longer bolts on mine to get it just right if I remember. I know I did new bolts, but maybe something happened and the old ones broke? But I thought I remembered needing just a little more length than the originals had.

paul

 

[Speedrdr]

9. Replace PS pump with fluid.

Randy

I must be dyslexic. I meant to say “replace PS fluid in pump”. Must need a proofreader before I hit post button.

Randy

 

[DirtDonk]

You should see some of the things that I’ve caught just in time! And, of course, a few of the things that I’ve missed initially…

 

[reamer]

Just installed a Blue top , fantastic! if the 70's boxes are like the 80's... the 80's Ford box's machined in the race in the castings and installed a bering, not a good mating surface, this is why they leak and new "rebuilt" ones leak too the machines "race" is not true. From what I was told Both Red Head and Blue Top machine out the in-casting-race and install a mated race and bering.....

 

[broncobuddha]

Definitely be interested in your experience with the Blue Top.

I'm going to do the lower seal hopefully this weekend but I think ultimately I'd like to get their 3.5 turn box.

 

[broncobuddha]

Coming back to this as work in the garage always seems to come in spurts.

Found a 3/4 drive 1 5/16 socket and a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter. Pitman arm nut and arm came off fine. (It's marked so I know how it goes back on)

Got the snap ring out and nothing falling out.

Started it up to rotate the steering wheel to use pressure to push the old seals out. Nada. Not even leaking though it's got plenty fluid.

Went lock to lock a couple of times, no dice.

Should note that lately I've been running synthetic or reg power steering fluid vs Type F. Not sure if that's my issue.

A friend mentioned taking the top cover off of the box and driving the seals out from above but would like to avoid this.

Any other suggestions?

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[broncobuddha]

Well, after a little searching I saw another suggestion of overfilling the reservoir with fluid which is what I ended up doing and it was enough to build pressure to blow the seals out. I kept the pitman nut in place so everything got caught so it didn't fall and that way I could make sure and see what order things went in, which is a helpful tip for anybody who's reading the thread.

I've got everything in but I was able to use the deep socket I had (1 1/8) to drive the seals up enough to catch the bottom seal. Then I had to put in one of the old washers and a screwdriver and kind of tap it home. Got the snap ring in and think we're good.

Started it up, checked for leaks. Multiple lock to lock turns. Re attached the pitman arm and nut to 120ft lbs, jacked up the front and again, multiple lock to lock turns. Then drive it around the neighborhood and got it good and warmed up and still no leaks. Topped off fluid to hot level.

I'll keep an eye on it but so far so good.

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[broncobuddha]

And now after driving it some more it's leaking again, presumably from the same place. Sigh.

Maybe it'll be a Blue Top afterall.

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[broncobuddha]

Bringing this back to the top. Been limping along with this box just keeping the PS fluid topped off.

I started re-visiting this in preparation for taking the box out and shipping it off to Blue Top.... Discovered that it's leaking out of the weep hole at the very front of the box.

I confirmed all hoses and my pitman shaft seals are all good.

I didn't even realize these had a weep hole. I would presume that leaking there would be an indicator of a worn/broken/bad seal somewhere internally.

So at one point I thought I'd get away without having to rebuild or replace the box but it looks like that is still going to happen.

I did find another alternative to sending mine off to Blue Top.

CJ Pony parts has new, not reman'd EB PS boxes in stock for $470. Since it's new, no core needed.

 

[gnpenning]

Can you post a picture of the leak and the hole you are talking about?

If it is what I think you are taking about that isn't a weep hole just a hole to help get the snap ring out. There is a seal for the cup (plug) and you may be able to replace in the vehicle? I would need to double check.

Cheap easy fix.

 

[thegreatjustino]

There is a seal for the cup (plug) and you may be able to replace in the vehicle

That cup sits up against the core support. It would be very difficult (it not impossible) to get that all taken apart , resealed, and put back together with the steering box bolted to the frame.