• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Finding/choosing a donor Explorer

FirstTimer67

Newbie
Joined
Sep 9, 2020
Messages
31
I’m looking to do the serpentine upgrade and gt40 heads on my 351W and figured finding an inexpensive donor would be better than wrestling around the junkyard for several hours. I have a few options nearby for $800-1200 for a ‘96 (and one early ‘97) but wasn’t sure how much I should be considering mileage. One has 201k, another 235k, and another is 267k. At what point do I spend a little more for fewer miles, or is it even worth it?

Also, since I’ll have a full vehicle I’ll be pulling the efi components as an option for the future. What else is worth stashing or selling before selling the chassis?
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,843
For a quick turnaround, there is also member sanndmann3 here that sells them complete. He does the junkyard-crawl and sells them at what I hear is still a pretty reasonable price for keeping your hands clean.

That said, your idea of the whole vehicle is not bad either, especially if you can use some of the other stuff.
For the front accessory drive though, I don't think mileage will matter in your case. At those 200k-plus ranges, it's going to be hit-or-miss as to whether you need to replace all the wear items or not, or if they have already been replaced. Or not...
The pulley bearings might wear out in as little as 50 or 60 thousand miles. An alternator might last 200k or more, or it might be done at 120k already. So the alternator might be junk, or might have been replaced recently with new.
You'll just have to look at those things carefully. If they all look original, they're probably all on equal footing. But if some look to have been replaced it's a reasonable bet (but still a gamble) that you can use them.

Remember the water pump too, as that is part of the Explorer front drive system.
Alternator, water pump, power steering pump are all unique-ish to the Explorer.

And all that same stuff goes double for the engines. While you might find a pristine Explorer engine at 250k miles that's ready to bolt up and go in your Bronco, I still consider anything over 125k to be in need of opening up and taking a peek in there before gambling your time on putting in a bad engine.
Some Explorers were babied, some were rode hard and put away wet. Some were overheated and melted things inside before they found themselves in the junkyard.
It's all a crapshoot over 200k miles.
So as Clint Eastwood used to say... "Do you feel lucky? Well, do ya?";);D

Good luck!

Paul
 

wizard12

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2015
Messages
80
EFI in the future

If you are looking at EFI in the future, in addition to the harness and the ECM it is a good idea to take:

- OBD2 port which is just under the dash on the driver side. The longer the wires on it you can keep before cutting, the better.
- the inertia/rollover switch for the fuel pump
- fuel pump if you plan on doing an in tank pump
- coil packs and the cam position sensor.
- I kept the throttle cable and used it with the bronco peddle.
- the air box and plumbing
 

1buckeyefan1

Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
630
If you are looking at EFI in the future, in addition to the harness and the ECM it is a good idea to take:

- fuel pump if you plan on doing an in tank pump

Something I didn't realize was worth keeping was the mounting flange on the fuel tank if you want to drop the Explorer fuel pump into an older tank. I kept the pump from my donor, but not the flange.
 

Jedeka

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2014
Messages
241
I picked up a 2000 Explorer with a salvage title this week that has 143,xxx miles on it. It runs and drives. I would sell it complete for $1150.
 

Bruners4

Newbie
Joined
Jul 22, 2019
Messages
39
Loc.
1/2 way to everywhere
The rear axle assembly is a score for the CJ and early Wrangler guys.
Having done what you are looking to do, having a doner parked out back would have solved so many little things. My '97 doner had the GT40-P heads that I sold along with the rear axle. I ended up scraping the body and just about broke even before buying BPE heads to replace the GT40-P heads.
Rock Auto has a kit with belt and all the pullies that is reasonable.
 
Top