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Firewall to floor pan measurements/angles?

Vpwjrsm

Newbie
Joined
Dec 25, 2017
Messages
3
Yep, I'm the idiot that didn't take good pics or measurements before deciding to tear things apart. Having issues getting my firewall and floor pan assembled somewhat close to where it should be.

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I assembled my upper cowl, firewall and floor pan, but when I went to mock in my dash and E-Brake, I found a problem. I bolted my E-Brake to the firewall and it angled up too high to correctly attach under the dash. If I push it down to the correct level for the dash, it bows my firewall out and starts to lift the floor pan out of level.

From the diagram I have:
A - Top Cowl level
B - Front face of Firewall plumb at 90° and 7.5" top of cowl down to first bend
C - (where E-Brake attaches) at 74° and 6.75" to foot rest of floor pan
D - Floor Pan foot rest at 41° and 12.5" to the floor

If I bolt the E-Brake tight to the firewall and push to where it looks right, my angle of C is around 76.5°. The 2.5° difference pushes the brake up about an 1.5".

Can anyone out there compare angles/measurements to see where I'm off?

Thanks!
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,165
Back to the top. Don't have the measurements, but with as many as there are here that have worked on, or are currently working on their bodies, someone should have the info for you.

There are also some diagrams posted hereabouts, but not sure if they have every dimension you need or not.

Good luck!

paul
 

67sport

Contributor
Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Messages
359
Loc.
Vancouver Island, Canada
I’m happy to get angles off my 74 in the morning (west coast), it’s stock/original. I’ll do that if no one chimes in before.

I have drawings that I gave my sheet metal buddy when he made me that same piece for my ‘67, but there’s no way I was accurate to 2.5 degrees, and not original, so not much help for what you’re facing.

If you’re going to have to cut/re-weld everything, you might mock up the steering column too - as another point of reference before you take it apart. Could you use shims/spacers for the e-brake bracket, and avoid loading the sheetmetal?

Probably not the right solution if you’re going for a clean, original resto, but would be much easier if you’re building a bush truck

I’ll post again in the morning if you haven’t been answered. Good luck.
 

67sport

Contributor
Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Messages
359
Loc.
Vancouver Island, Canada
Well.... Apparently I have more free time on a Friday night than I thought. Went and had a beer with my digital level and my bronco.
Just a disclaimer - I can change my degrees by about .5-1 degree depending where I put my level. It's pretty dynamic, measuring 45 year old sheet metal.

That said, I think your whole panel is installed angled too far towards the rear. (Needs to rotate clockwise viewed from the drivers side.)

My horizontal cowl is sloped down to the rear 1.45*. I zeroed my level here. Relative to that new zero, here's what I have;
A - the vertical face of the firewall is 89.5*, or .5* towards the rear at the bottom.
B - the first kick at the steering column is 79.05*
C - the big bend is 43*, and harder to find a good measurement point. I could make it move around some, but 43 seems true.
D - my floor is sloping down at the rear 0.5* more than the cowl. They are not quite parallel.

I hope it helps. I'd be curious to see other numbers and compare. I don't believe most sheet metal brakes are accurate to 1*, but I'm just a dumb sparky, so maybe they are. Sheet metal guys get called tin bashers for a reason, cause everything they build has to be beaten into place.

Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk
 
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