• Just a reminder that you won't be able to start new posts or reply to existings posts in the Archive forum.

    This is where all the old posts go so they can still be used for reference and searched.
  • Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Floor Pans Help

Chief Master Sergeant

Retired U.S. Air Force
Joined
Nov 6, 2002
Messages
5,206
I finally got the floorpans cut and fitted for my drivers side. I read in an older Bronco Driver magazine where some used something I think they called clickets, or something like that, to secure the pans as they welded them. What exactly are these things and where can I find them? I'm not the brightest when it comes to this stuff, so excuse the many questions. When I cut holes in the new pans for the spot welds, do I make a smaller hole in the underlying metal for the clickets or what? Seems like the weld would go right through. Last question...My drivers side kick panel is all but gone. Can I cut the rusted metal out from inside the cab or do I have to remove the front fender? Not a show truck, just trying to improve a daily driver.
 

flousberg

Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2002
Messages
744
I just finished my floor pans. I bought some self tapping screws and fit everything down with them. Then I took it out and drilled out the holes to 5/16". I then put the pans back in, put in every other screw and started spot welding the others making sure to spread out so I didn't warp them. When I finished I took out the other screws and welded the rest.

hope that make sense
 

74bronc

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 28, 2001
Messages
3,736
I actually wrote that bronco driver article and they are called clecos. I used them because we are building an airplane and we have thousands of them laying around. I only used them for the passenger side and they didn't work the way I wanted them to. Basically they work great for aluminum sheet metal and ribs for an airplane but they don't work so great on steel sheet metal. They wouldn't pull the sheet metal close enough together. On the driver's side in my bronco, I used self tapping sheet metal screws and I have done this on 2 subsequent floor replacement jobs and it is the only way to go. I got a box of heavy duty self tappers at Home Depot for a few bucks. don't get the small ones, get the bigger ones. good luck
 
OP
OP
Chief Master Sergeant

Chief Master Sergeant

Retired U.S. Air Force
Joined
Nov 6, 2002
Messages
5,206
Okay, so excuse my ignorance once again, but do you have to drill starter holes for these or do the live up to their names?
 

Mark

Contributor
Bronco Klutz
Joined
Aug 29, 2003
Messages
5,414
Loc.
NW Indiana
FirstSergeant said:
Okay, so excuse my ignorance once again, but do you have to drill starter holes for these or do the live up to their names?
For sheet metal screws - yes, for clecos - hellifiknow
 

trailpsycho

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 11, 2003
Messages
4,856
No, you do not need to pre drill anything. Buy self-tapping sheet metal screws; they have a beveled edge that cuts very quickly like a drill bit. They are a bit more expensive than regular sheet metal screws, but once you finish one panel you can re-use most of them. If your using a cordless drill, make sure you have a back-up battery. I helpe Taxx, on this site--you can do a search for Floor Pan Replacement-(there are pics), when he was doing his floor pans a few months ago. They worked well. I would recommend using the largest size of them you can find, simply because that way you will not need to re-drill them later to make a larger hole for getting a nice spot weld. All the home stores will have them. Good luck.
 

74bronc

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 28, 2001
Messages
3,736
FirstSergeant said:
Okay, so excuse my ignorance once again, but do you have to drill starter holes for these or do the live up to their names?

for clecos, yes, you have to drill a hole through both pieces of sheet metal. the hole size depends on the size of cleco you are using. After you're done, you just weld up the holes.

like stated above, no need to predrill for self-tapping sheet metal screws.
 

bigpappa

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 5, 2003
Messages
1,035
Loc.
Gardendale Al
I am planning on doing like others have mentioned and use self tapping screws. No need to predrill, I have used them to drill through 1/2 plate before when attaching a wood strip to steel in a building.
 

highrlr

Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2004
Messages
126
Loc.
Bismarck, ND
I used self tapping screws as well, I would recommend buying the ones with the "bolt" style head instead of like the phillips screwdriver type head, I always strip those ones out and they are harder to get started without holding onto them since they tend to shoot out from under the drill :mad: .
 
OP
OP
Chief Master Sergeant

Chief Master Sergeant

Retired U.S. Air Force
Joined
Nov 6, 2002
Messages
5,206
Okay, I have everything I need to get started on screwing this thing down this weekend. Hopefully it comes out like I hope it will. I never got an answer about my kick panel though. Its about gone and I need to replace the metal. Can this be cut from inside the cab or do I need to remove the front fender. Once again, this is not intended to be a show truck, just a daily driver. I'll post some pictures of my work this weekend. Thanks for all of your help.
 

eds66bronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 3, 2004
Messages
1,119
Loc.
Essex, Vermont
it's a bit more work but well worth removing the fender. that way you can drill out the spot welds and remove the kick panel real easy. while the fender is off you can also fix the rust spot that will be where the kick panel meets the inner fender skirt and where the core support meets the fender . they are lap joints and always have rust in them. the bolts/clips that hold the fender to the grill are usually rusted together beyond repair but i got a box of them at napa. this is the same thing i started with but once i got removing/fixing stuff, i ended up with a complete frame off restoration %)
 
OP
OP
Chief Master Sergeant

Chief Master Sergeant

Retired U.S. Air Force
Joined
Nov 6, 2002
Messages
5,206
I tried to remove the 3 screws on the front door post in an attempt to remove the front fender. Any tricks? I soaked them in PB's for a couple of days, but no luck. This seems to be the only thing hanging me up.
 

Bronchopper

Full Member
Joined
May 4, 2005
Messages
173
Loc.
Incirlik, Turkey
hey firstsergeant, i am an aircraft structural fabrication troop in the USAF. we use the clecos that they showed you above all the time as well. but for stuff that needs to be drawn together or pulled tight or is thick material try a set of these. draw clecos
they work well for this type of thing. like mentioned above, you just need to drill the holes the correct size for the cleco that you are using.

enjoy
 

BoltBuster

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 5, 2002
Messages
2,051
If you have a camera take some pics, like to see the progress, have to do mine soon!
 
Top