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fluctuating volt meter

dougsride

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Joined
Dec 19, 2013
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202
on my 75 carb engine bronco I installed a butt kicking stereo. all my wiring is done top notch. now I noticed at night with my lights on and stereo playing and a set of Harley spot lights in the front bumper running that my volt gage needle is bouncing back and forth slightly. I also noticed my gage lights doing the same. 65 amp alt with a new regulator. you guys think I need to get a 105 amp alt. now? was wondering if my set up is taxing the 65 amp alt.
 

Viperwolf1

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electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
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24,346
Sounds like you are on the edge of needing more alternator.
 

68ford

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Dec 26, 2004
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2,710
Voltage regulator bouncing in between outputs due to amperage needs. One is to much and the other not enough so it goes back and forth. Get a solid state voltage regulator from a late 80s early 90s mustang. Should fix flickering.
 

gr8scott

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Voltage regulator bouncing in between outputs due to amperage needs. One is to much and the other not enough so it goes back and forth. Get a solid state voltage regulator from a late 80s early 90s mustang. Should fix flickering.

And a 3G alternator while you're at it...
 

bronconut73

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Joined
Aug 7, 2012
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9,918
Need to know more about the stereo.
If running an amp make sure you have a large enough power wire (min. 10 gauge).
Excellent grounding is also important. Large enough wire as short as possible connected to body or frame with paint removed.
I also run an additional ground from body to frame.

But above all you really do need more of an amperage cushion from your alternator.
A 105 amp alt. would be a good place to start.
 
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dougsride

dougsride

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Dec 19, 2013
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202
stereo

I am running a Rockford fosgate subwoofer /amp combo and a alpine 55 watt amp for the speakers. I did run a 10 gauge wire to battery for power thru a 30 amp maxi fuse. I ran a separate power wire for the sub and amp. it came with kit looks at least 10, maybe 8 gauge. I ran it to the battery thru a separate maxi fuse block. using a yellow top optima battery. all grounds are short and sweet and using a large battery to engine and engine to frame and a battery to frame ground straps. the voltage regulator is a napa Echlin solid state. I helped my buddy put a single wire alt from wild horses on his 69 and I guess I need to pony up the cash and get one. you know a bronco is like a Harley. they will hundred dollar you to death!
 

Slednut10

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Guru? That's funny!
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Sep 26, 2013
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If you are going to upgrade the alternator, skip the one wire and get a 3G. Cheaper, just as easy and you can quickly locate a replacement if it ever craps out. These alternators put out as much at idle as yours does at max.
 

bronconut73

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Aug 7, 2012
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If you are going to upgrade the alternator, skip the one wire and get a 3G. Cheaper, just as easy and you can quickly locate a replacement if it ever craps out. These alternators put out as much at idle as yours does at max.



This is prolly sage advice....
 
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dougsride

dougsride

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Dec 19, 2013
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stereo

pardon my ignorance but what do you mean by a 3g? would that be an alternator from say a fuel inj 5.0. will it use my existing wiring and volt reg.?
 

bronconut73

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Aug 7, 2012
Messages
9,918
pardon my ignorance but what do you mean by a 3g? would that be an alternator from say a fuel inj 5.0. will it use my existing wiring and volt reg.?



You will be able to use the 3G's internal regulator.
It is just a much better unit. 130 amps and great amperage at idle.
Junk yards are a great place to look.
BC Broncos has a tech page for this.
The 3G did come in 5.0's but it seems that most grab them from Taurus's.
It you are looking for something easier WH has a 3G with harness.
 

DirtDonk

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Nov 3, 2003
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Yes, a later model ("3rd generation") alternator off of just about any Ford up to roughly the early to mid-90's
No, you won't need your old voltage regulator because just about all modern alts have an internal regulator instead. No more need for the one on the fender/firewall.

And no, the original wiring won't work. You can keep most of it, and while you will still be able to use a voltmeter, you will no longer have use of your original ammeter. The new alternator (from 95 to 130 amp ratings) is too powerful for the stock charge wire, so you bypass it with a new wire (8ga to 4ga) straight from the alternator's output terminal to the battery's positive terminal (or the starter relay/solenoid post) instead.

It's pretty easy and straightforward. There are quite a few writeups hereabouts with both donor vehicle applications for new or used purchases.
There are small and large case versions, and either can be made to work with your stock brackets. There are some oddball mount configurations too (of course!) but those are easily avoided.

Good luck.

Paul
 
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dougsride

dougsride

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Dec 19, 2013
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202
stereo

thanks. just spent time looking up on google. gonna take that route. I appreciate mining info from you guys.
 
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