Frame/Axle Paint

[BruiserOutdoors]

I am looking at different options for what to use to paint a frame and axle housings.


I just got back from the NW Bronco Roundup, and looked at a bunch of different frames. None were to the quality I prefer, and I came to the conclusion that the sheen I had done was just right, happy to say the least. I used Eastwood Chassis Black (Satin) and it laid down flat and smooth, with a nice sheen to it. The frame was wire wheeled and cleaned.

On this next project, the frame will be sand blasted for better adhesion, though the wire wheel did fine last time.


I bought 10 cans of "Steel-it" paint but after reviewing the product in person, the color wasn't quite black enough for my liking. I would go with Eastwood products again but I noticed behind the rear tires on the frame that the paint was starting to show some wear (sand blasted from dunes riding). This next project will see more offroad, more wheel speed and more abuse. So I am back to the drawing board of what route to go.

I am looking for a satin to gloss black sheen that is durable and lays down flat. Thoughts?

 

[ssray]

Eastwood has a Extreme Chassis Black that supposedly better than the original. DuPont Imron used to be a well known industrial paint but it’s under a different name and I haven’t heard as much about it any more.

 

[rcmbronc]

I used sanding discs and wire wheels. Then covered with Rust encapsulator Premium from Eastwood. Then top coated with 2K ceramic chassis black satin. Tuenedc out very nice and very durable so far. I like the reviews of Steel it but have not tried it yet. Sounds good.

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

Eastwood has a Extreme Chassis Black that supposedly better than the original.

I think I used the extreme kind on the first project.

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

I used sanding discs and wire wheels. Then covered with Rust encapsulator Premium from Eastwood. Then top coated with 2K ceramic chassis black satin. Tuenedc out very nice and very durable so far. I like the reviews of Steel it but have not tried it yet. Sounds good.

thanks for the input. I have heard good things about Steel-it but the color and sheen just doesn't do it for me.

 

[Steve83]

Paint is not the right coating for undercarriage. If you don't keep it touched up, it'll just collect nicks & chips until it's so blistered that it causes more rust than it prevents. Even if applied when the steel is new-in-the-factory:

(click this text)


The right thing to coat the undercarriage is (naturally) undercoating. It doesn't scratch or chip like paint, and it's designed to adhere to old metal (it's still worth pressure-washing a few times before applying it). And it's super-easy to touch up if you need to. This is one of my Broncos that I've rebuilt from the frame up (with links to pics years later):

(click this text)


This is the 2nd

(click this text)


This is how it looks now (yeah, I need to get back to it):

(click this text)


I didn't remove the body from the 3rd:

(click this text)

 

[EPB72]

If your going to blast and properly prep then epoxy primer would be the best for corrosion protection and adhesion for top coats if so desired providing it’s all sprayed within the redcoat window .. last year I stripped down my frame that I epoxied in the early 90s with vry little rust in a couple scrape areas from multiple rubicon trips,, currently I’m doing a redo on the bronco so decided to not stop short ..

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

I used sanding discs and wire wheels. Then covered with Rust encapsulator Premium from Eastwood. Then top coated with 2K ceramic chassis black satin. Tuenedc out very nice and very durable so far. I like the reviews of Steel it but have not tried it yet. Sounds good.

got pics of the results?

 

[rcmbronc]

Here you go.

 

[cldonley]

Eastwood products worked great for me. I had mine sandblasted then used all Eastwood afterblast and coatings.

 

[Madgyver]

PPG Amerlock2 and Cure.....
This is what I use on my rigs in my salty environment...

 

[jeffncs]

I use Eastwood products with great confidence. Is anyone using POR15 any longer? That was once the standard by which all others were judged.

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

I use Eastwood products with great confidence. Is anyone using POR15 any longer? That was once the standard by which all others were judged.

I have never been a big fan of POR, still seems like its been using a bit.

 

[EB70]

Somewhat related question here. Is there a chassis paint that you shoot from a gun that can be touched up with a can? Like from Eastwood? I have rattle canned the last build or two with good paint and it worked. But I'd like something better and then when I need to weld something once in awhile I can and just spray it from a can? I struggle with giving a frame a great paint job from a gun and then forgetting something or needing to modify a bracket or something.

*I don't generally go to Eastwood, but it looks like the have a matching aerosol can for touchups. Just an FYI

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

Somewhat related question here. Is there a chassis paint that you shoot from a gun that can be touched up with a can? Like from Eastwood? I have rattle canned the last build or two with good paint and it worked. But I'd like something better and then when I need to weld something once in awhile I can and just spray it from a can? I struggle with giving a frame a great paint job from a gun and then forgetting something or needing to modify a bracket or something.

*I don't generally go to Eastwood, but it looks like the have a matching aerosol can for touchups. Just an FYI

I am running into this same conundrum right now. I am considering having my cage built now so I can avoid any repainted sections of my frame. I'm sure you could touch it up with a can, but I havent done it so I can't say for sure. Great question! Very relevant to my situation (just messaged my fabracator about getting the cage done soon)

 

[bronkenn]

I have been using POR15 for 25 years and have had very good results. The most important thing to do is follow the directions. It works really good with sandblasted surfaces. The one thing to remember is the paint doesn't like sunlight so would topcoat any part that will be exposed to sunlight. I have things that I have POR'ed years ago that still look good. It can be sprayed on or brushed. When brushed on it flattens out and looks good. Mine is brushed on. When sprayed it is very toxic and you will need a good respirator.

 

[pcf_mark]

Paint is not the right coating for undercarriage. If you don't keep it touched up, it'll just collect nicks & chips until it's so blistered that it causes more rust than it prevents. Even if applied when the steel is new-in-the-factory:

(click this text)


The right thing to coat the undercarriage is (naturally) undercoating. It doesn't scratch or chip like paint, and it's designed to adhere to old metal (it's still worth pressure-washing a few times before applying it). And it's super-easy to touch up if you need to. This is one of my Broncos that I've rebuilt from the frame up (with links to pics years later):

(click this text)


This is the 2nd

(click this text)


This is how it looks now (yeah, I need to get back to it):

(click this text)


I didn't remove the body from the 3rd:

(click this text)

My initial take away was "wow that is one short driveshaft!"

 

[nvrstuk]

Before POR was sold in stores it was sold by independent dealers. I was one.

IF, big IF. IF you follow directions it is extremely hard to find something that can take the abuse. I'd bet less than a third of the people that use it follow the dang instructions to the letter.

After it cures you can pound on it with a hammer- try that with any regular paint.

I have also used 2 part epoxy primer. Very tough.

Never used the Amerlock PPG, heard good things tho.

Remember and already stated. What do you do if you need to repair or modify down the road??? I can't believe those that powder coat something like a frame. Would never work for someone that keeps a rig for a long time as changes are always made as new improved suspension, brakes, drivetrain etc come out each decade.

Good luck and let us know what you end up going with... and why!

 

[nvrstuk]

Just read up some on Amerlock. What sounds like a bonus to me is it is a "high build" meaning on frames, rear/frt axles etc it might help fill in all those small imperfections and pits that look so cheeezy when they show through a gloss finish paint. I have been using Summit brand 2 part epoxy primer for a while and it works good but I have no idea how it will hold up compared to POR15 coated parts that I did back in & around 2000.

 

[scoutingranch]

I've used Por-15 doing restos from Sunbeam Tigers, Porsche 356 to early Broncos for decades. I even use it on my steel patio funiture.
The biggest hit with me is, it's self-leveling, weeps under attached metals and it is one part. Several thin coats is wise and not one heavy coat.
I will admit that anywhere gravel gets thrown up, I use a rubberized uncoating over the Por-15.