Front Drum/Diff Parts for a 1969

[pipeline010]

Hey gang. Got some multiple questions for a planned project:

Truck:
1969 with Electric Wiper Blades (I think this matters, actually).
Dana 30

After finally completely finishing (until it breaks again) the rear differential with new seals, bearings, flush, brake hardware, and some SS brake lines, I'm moving forward to the front diff and need some info.

I literally have zero first hand knowledge of the internals of the front differential. My knowledge of differentials is limited to the ford 9", of which I've become very confident.

My front right seal has been leaking for a while, though, and getting harder to ignore which is precipitating this project.

Question 1:

What size drums do I need for the front end? It seems the midpoint for thicker drums falls in the middle of the 1969 year. The electric wipers came onto the trucks about halfway through the year, so I thought it may be correlated. How can I tell the difference? Part Number for rep?

While I'm breaking everything down I intend to:

1. put some MM hubs on (because I'm sure the stock internals are a disaster).
2. Replace both ujoints with some heavy duty spicers.
3. All new drums, shoes, hardware, self correctors.
4. Replacing hard brake lines across diff with SS lines.
5. Replacing inner/outer seals (yes there are outer housing seals in the d-30).
6. Obviously cleaning/flushing the interior. May even throw some diesel fuel in there and turn the axles to get the carrier flushed before redraining.
7. POR-15 the housing and all free components and adding a topcoat for the UV.

Question 2:

How do bearings work in the front end? I'd like to replace the bearings as I did so for the rear axles on both sides. I'm having trouble wrapping my head around which bearings I should replace and where they are? Are there two sets INSIDE the hub? One set on either side of the carrier, are they all easily swapped (removed and replaced) or am I getting into more than I can understand? A little clarity on the bearing stuff if anyone can explain it to a newb such as myself.

Question 3:

Anything else I should definitely do while I'm in there?

Question 4:

Any random advice for my first go at this?

INFO:

When my rear popped the drivers side seal due to failed bearings in the spring it took me 6 days to complete the project due to incompetence. My other bearings failed last monday and the truck was driving again by tuesday. Would have been same day but I needed to wait to use the press at work. I'm great mechanically, but need to EFF up a project every possible way before I can wrap my head around it.

 

[bronkenn]

One thing I would recommend is using the copper/nickel brake line rather than stainless. Much easier to work with. Ken

 

[pipeline010]

One thing I would recommend is using the copper/nickel brake line rather than stainless. Much easier to work with. Ken

no knowledge of this stuff, but how does it deal with rust? I live on the rustiest place on earth.

I got the SS for the rear differential and it was, indeed, harrowing to get it just the way I wanted. I test drove and had basically no stop at all.

I had to very very slowly and carefully re-thread into the block but, now seated, they work perfectly and look fantastic. They've even been drowned in some common flooding (salt) and came out looking new.

 

[Broncobowsher]

At the wheel there are 3 bearings. 2 support the wheel like most any vehicle. The third is the spindle bearing and it supports the inner part of the spindle. The outer is supported by the lockout.

The inner shaft has no support bearings. The U-joint side is supported by the Spindle bearing holding up the U-joint. The inner is supported by the side gear in the diff.

The front diff has 4 bearings, 2 on the carrier and 2 on the pinion.

That is all the bearings on the front end.

(I lied, since you have a Dana 30, more in the kingpin).


I recommend you take stuff apart before ordering up parts. You have the 4-prong tool for the front wheel bearings? IF not get that first. The drum is not suppose to slide of the wheel studs like the rear. The drum and hub are treated as one part. Take the lockout apart, get the wheel bearings out, probably going to need to back off the adjsuters, then then you get to see what you have for brakes.

That leaky axle seal, you get to pull both brakes off, both spindles off, both axle shafts out. Pull the front cover. Mark the caps and remove them. Keep track of all bearings and shims, they have to go back in the same spots. Get the carrier out and now you can access the axle seal. Yes, a LOT for labor for a single seal. Do both sides.

 

[DirtDonk]

And don't toss your old hub parts unless they do turn out to be toast. Someone like me may want them!
The factory hubs were arguably more complicated, but arguably better/stronger than any of the aftermarket offerings until you get to the Yukon stuff. Which is just a strong copy of the old original Spicer locking parts anyway.

Paul

 

[bronkenn]

no knowledge of this stuff, but how does it deal with rust? I live on the rustiest place on earth.

I got the SS for the rear differential and it was, indeed, harrowing to get it just the way I wanted. I test drove and had basically no stop at all.

I had to very very slowly and carefully re-thread into the block but, now seated, they work perfectly and look fantastic. They've even been drowned in some common flooding (salt) and came out looking new.

It doesn't rust and is very user friendly. It bends really nice and seats well to flares. It is softer than stainless.

 

[hyghlndr]

Advance auto or similar will have them listed as Nicopp Blake lines.

 

[pipeline010]

At the wheel there are 3 bearings. 2 support the wheel like most any vehicle. The third is the spindle bearing and it supports the inner part of the spindle. The outer is supported by the lockout.

The inner shaft has no support bearings. The U-joint side is supported by the Spindle bearing holding up the U-joint. The inner is supported by the side gear in the diff.

The front diff has 4 bearings, 2 on the carrier and 2 on the pinion.

That is all the bearings on the front end.

(I lied, since you have a Dana 30, more in the kingpin).


I recommend you take stuff apart before ordering up parts. You have the 4-prong tool for the front wheel bearings? IF not get that first. The drum is not suppose to slide of the wheel studs like the rear. The drum and hub are treated as one part. Take the lockout apart, get the wheel bearings out, probably going to need to back off the adjsuters, then then you get to see what you have for brakes.

That leaky axle seal, you get to pull both brakes off, both spindles off, both axle shafts out. Pull the front cover. Mark the caps and remove them. Keep track of all bearings and shims, they have to go back in the same spots. Get the carrier out and now you can access the axle seal. Yes, a LOT for labor for a single seal. Do both sides.

great info thanks.

For the seal and flush I may just remove the ENTIRE assembly on both sides - brakes, spindles, axle shafts - would be heavy but very simple and allows me to adjust in stages and get a peek into what I'll be doing. Do the seals first and new ujoints are easy enough if needed. Then go back for the hubs and brakes later. At that time make a decision on the bearings.

Thanks!

 

[bronkenn]

If it is like the 44 you will need to remove the carrier to install new seals. I am not familiar with the 30 so I may be wrong. Ken

 

[pipeline010]

nah, you're right about that. both axles and carrier to get the seals out. it needs a flush anyway.

 

[bronkenn]

You'll be a Dana pro when your done. When I done mine I had never rebuilt a Dana. Had done 9 inchers before. Did a lot of studying on the internet and when I did it , it went pretty good. I pulled my whole axle out and put it on a stand. Made it much easier. Getting too old to crawl around under the truck with a 100 pound chunk on my chest. Good luck with it. Ken

 

[pipeline010]

thx Ken. ya, I'll likely follow the same track in terms of know-how. But I'm not pulling the whole diff.

I have a tendency to really get frustrated when things aren't working the way I expect them to, so the smallest increments I can do at a time is best until I've got the whole process wired.

 

[Joe473]

nah, you're right about that. both axles and carrier to get the seals out. it needs a flush anyway.

Pull your axles first and look at the sealing surface. If they are grooved real bad from debris in the tube changing the seals will be kinda useless. Be prepared to address the sealing surface with a seal that rides in a different spot or new stubs or sleeve. As was said before shims on each side are different so keep them straight. Internal seals are a bitch to get in with standard seal driver. There is a tool to make it easy.

The right way to do a D44 rebuild is with a case spreader and setup bearings. If carrier bearings and shims aren't changed a rubber mallet works well.

If your Hubs work leave them alone. You will find more issues to spend money on I'm sure. Check wheel bearings if done right they last a long time. Change your inner spindle bearing. They turn to dust quick..

Somewhere on here is a D44 exploded view. Google it as it will help you. Also Google the wheel bearing tightening sequence. Dirtdonk documented this a few times. Very different from a standard tapered roller on older RWD cars.

Good luck.

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