Front Drum Shoe Replacement

[70 sport WA]

OK...last time I replaced drum brake shoes was about 1995. I remember it well, a Super Bowl Sunday (I heard the Broncos lost) and took close to 12 hours. Cylinders and bleeding brake lines, the whole experience. Hey, I was 23 and a novice. No, I didn't get to see any of the game.

Last time the shoes on this rig was changed was 2007. I have the receipt. $750 for front and back. Must be why I changed them myself in 1995...I couldn't bear the $150 (at the time) and opted for the do-it-your-self $25 as a poor college student.

I've got time at home now. Haven't put a lot of miles on the Bronco since 2007--maybe 10,000--but feeling like the brakes are ready for replacement.

Any tips or ideas? Took me a long time the last time and thinking I got the springs all installed backward back in 1995, if that is possible, but the thing still stopped. Gotten much better with mechanics since then but welcome any input. Even OK with well-intended sarcasm and ribbing, lol.

Basically, tell me what not to do.

 

[DirtDonk]

Have you tried adjusting them? The self-adjusters are notorious for not working well.
Even with lots of city stop-n-go driving, 10k is extremely short life for even the Bronco.

Maybe pull a drum (rear is usually quicker) and inspect, clean up and re-adjust to see if that helps.
And it's free! Unless of course you find a leaking component again...

Paul

 

[70 sport WA]

I'll definitely take a look first; if it's a matter of adjusting and there is shoe life left, I'll look and see. Didn't think of that so thanks for the tip!

 

[DirtDonk]

So 2007 was the last time the shoes were changed on this particular rig you said? If so (and you have not been back inside in the meantime) then after the rears, the fronts should definitely be inspected too.
Not that you'll necessarily find anything amiss with the shoes, but this is your excuse to re-pack and re-adjust the wheel bearings.

How many clicks of the parking brake do you have to make before they grab? Does the parking brake pedal go close to the floor, or is it up high?

Paul

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, as mentioned, it is time for the drums to come off and check everything. Worn shoes, leaky wheel cylinders, broken springs and repack the front bearings.
If you have a lot of pedal travel the shoes are out of adjustment, but the drums will slide off easier.
If you can spin the front wheel and there is no scraping sound the brakes are out of adjustment.
I would start on the rear wheels because it is an easier job.
When I was learning to do a brake job I would work on side so I could look at the other side to see how the parts are supposed to go.
Good luck

 

[SHX669]

What B ron Co said ^^^^ do one side at a time then when you can't remember " which direction does this go " or 'does this clip in from the front or the back " you'll have to other side for reference.

 

[DirtDonk]

Even with today's access to the internet having that reference point just on the other side of the vehicle is priceless!

Remember that in the "old days" (up to just a couple of years ago in this case) there was a primary and a secondary shoe. So very likely your linings have a short and a long one.
Short one (primary) always faces the front of the vehicle no matter which side brakes you're working on.

The primary/secondary design gives the drum brakes their "self energizing" characteristics, including a more linear feel at the pedal. Without it you have to push the brakes a little harder and keep pushing harder. It's natural too, but the short/long setup seems to just work better.
Naturally with today's suppliers many shoe kits now come with equal length linings.
Guess they figured we all have monster vacuum, or hydroboost power, oversize front discs and anti-lock systems, so don't need the better pedal feel of old.

It's also possible they know something I don't. But shoes worked that way for what, 70 years before the change?
In case you end up needing new shoes after all, check this out. If they are both the same length double check they're not marked "front" and "rear" in case they've modified the friction material instead. Doubtful, in today's penny-pinching world, but anything is possible.

Paul

 

[Steve83]

The most-common problem with drum brakes is LACK OF GREASE. There are a few greases specifically made for brakes, and VERY-specific locations to apply that grease, so that everything works right for years. Click this & read all the captions:

(phone app link)


One of them explains exactly how to assemble the front shoes without any tools.

 

[nickgp]

Upgrade to discs?

 

[Steve83]

More trouble than it's worth, so not really an "upgrade" - just a really expensive & difficult swap. Drums are fine if they're assembled & maintained correctly.

 

[DirtDonk]

Or if you have larger tires.
I agree they're actually pretty good. But maintaining their adjustment is just not what most owners are willing, or able to do these days. Heck, even I would probably not keep them up.
Maybe I just wasn't doing something right, but my self adjusters never worked at all that I could tell. At least not effectively. But my brakes worked fantastic because I was constantly tweaking them. Every few weeks or so I was under the truck fine-tuning them slightly.
Definitely not something I'd do with my schedule these days. Just ask 904! It took me three weeks to adjust a wheel bearing!;D%) (sounds like a personal problem... )

So while not a lot of extra power with the discs, the lack of maintenance and peace of mind knowing they're less prone to fade is priceless!

Paul

 

[Steve83]

They self-adjust, if they're assembled properly, with functional parts, and the proper grease.

 

[okie4570]

Any chance he's working on a 66 with no self adjusters? Probably not though given his user name lol

 

[70 sport WA]

Well, going to happen this week...picked up the parts yesterday and will inspect first, in some case they still have life.

Brake fluid reservoir is full, to the top. Emergency brake takes only a couple "clicks" to engage. Overall brakes feel OK but some times it seems like the travel is a bit too long and soft. But the time it's been since pads were changed is, well, a long time. Now estimating 4K miles but had 33" tires and mostly city driving.

I just went down to 32" tires (and 11.5 width, vs. 12.5). Happier with this set up.

Would consider going to to discs, but I still have a Dana 30 up front...seems like bad investment. Better off to buy a complete set up with a D44 (I think).

Best, Dan

 

[70 sport WA]

Here's a pic from yesterday. Getting serious about driving this more--obvious by taking the top off, lol, now I _have_ to drive it more.

 

[DirtDonk]

Great color.
Don't hold off of better brakes waiting for a 44 that you probably don't really need.
Although, you did say you were going to take it off-road occasionally, right? If so that's some justification, but for street use with 32" tires a 30 is fine.
Unless some of that street use involves Fall-Guy style ramp jumps!

Paul

 

[70 sport WA]

Great color.
Don't hold off of better brakes waiting for a 44 that you probably don't really need.
Although, you did say you were going to take it off-road occasionally, right? If so that's some justification, but for street use with 32" tires a 30 is fine.
Unless some of that street use involves Fall-Guy style ramp jumps!

Paul

Love you man, known you for many years my friend. Good advice, thank you. I agree--mostly street use and it has been so for a long time. Four-wheel drive in five inches of snow multiple times and performed admirably (factory limited-slip) No hard curb hits, lol, breaking an axle.