Front drums stuck and other brake questions

[Golfball]

Attempted to replace the stock front brakes on my latest 75 this weekend and can not get the front drums off. They are not stuck on the brake shoes, I have backed off the adjuster enough adn the wheels spin freely. These seem to be seized on the lugs and hub. I used my torch and 3lb sledge to no avail. Any other tricks to getting them off? I will also check with Advance Auto to see if they have a drum puller.

And I know a lot of you are saying "Time to go to disc", that is my plan... later. I already have all the brake hardware and shoes and just wanted to get this on the road for a little driving before tearing it down. So my other question is does anyone sell an all Ford disc brake kit? I have a set of knuckles/brackets from a 73 F100 that I can use, just need the rest. Or am I going to get gather up parts for this? (Just hate putting Chevy stuff on my Fords)

If I go to disc, will I need a new H-block or a proportioning valve?

 

[BUCKNBRONK]

U HAVE TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE HUB!!

Its a common mistake. the drum is pressed on to the studs

 

[half cab]

Yes on proportioning valve for disc.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Ford has you take apart the lockout and remove the wheel bearings to get the hub/drum unit off as a whole.

 

[DirtDonk]

Which is almost always a good thing with a new-to-you Bronco anyway. Chances are very good that most PO's had not had their bearings checked and re-packed in a very long time. So it's just good practice.

For Ford discs, if you have the knuckles and caliper brackets already, you need calipers, pads (of course), hoses, hubs & rotors and bearings.
All are for the same application as your knuckles. So, anything for a 76 to 79 Bronco or F150 should work.
I don't know of a kit that has all that stuff, but not the brackets and knuckles.

You will also need to account for the difference in size of the tapered holes for the tie-rod ends. Either larger rod ends, or the tapered sleeves to take up the slack will be needed.

The hoses can are not "stock" but if you get the right model, you can come up with an off-the-shelf Ford part. Something like a '76 2wd truck or something like that. Or, better yet would be custom hoses from one of us vendors. A little more money of course, but in braided stainless would last half of forever and function exceptionally well.

I would not necessarily plumb a stock type proportioning valve in the system. By now the Broncos are so far out of the range of balance that Ford expected them to be (lift kits, tire sizes, loading and suspension designs and tire type) that it's worth it to either try it with the stock H-block (like many of us here have done) or use an adjustable prop valve like this instead: http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/WilwoodCombinationProportioningValve
It's close to the same price, can account for the differences stated, and is not prone to leaking out of the delay valve like some stock replacements have been.

Otherwise, a piece of cake... %)

Paul

 

[Golfball]

Thanks guys. I will go ahead and pull the hubs and get these brakes replaced and bearings repacked. Then I will be collecting the Ford disc parts for the future upgrade when I do the lift.

 

[AndyT]

Don't pull the hubs yet!!!! Tap each of the studs back about a quarter inch. It will free it. I know from experience. I did the same thing you are doing and even caved a drum in with a BFH. Couple of taps and it will go PING! And you will be able to remove it with one hand. Bet money on it.

 

[DirtDonk]

I'm not doubting Andy's success, but I'm still of the opinion that, unless you've personally re-packed the bearings in the not-too-distant past, it's a very good thing to have them all apart for a good look-see and going through.

Paul

 

[AndyT]

I'm not doubting Andy's success, but I'm still of the opinion that, unless you've personally re-packed the bearings in the not-too-distant past, it's a very good thing to have them all apart for a good look-see and going through.

Paul

I agree, stripping it and checking the bearing is a great idea! Removing the drum will make it much more manageable to deal with though.

 

[Golfball]

I did try tapping on the lugs while putting pressure on the drums, no joy. I will be pulling them apart this weekend and redoing everything. After my numerous travels underneath the Bronco replacing all of the brake lines, its obvious from the plethora of dirt-dobber nest that this truck has been sitting for several years (last registered in 2006) so I will be going through everything.

Thanks everyone. I will try to post a few pics of the dismantling and see what 8 years of solitary confinement will do to a Bronco.

 

[KyleQ]

Haha, I bead the fawk out of the front drum and destroyed it before I realized the lockout had to come apart. I don't know how I missed that as I've had my other Bronco apart, but whatever, I've got spares and plan on disk brakes anyway.

 

[simmsjeremy]

x2 on what AndyT said as well as Paul I did all of the above just a couple of weeks ago. I had a drum that was siezed and wouldn't come off with the hub assembly so I did what AndyT said and worked perfectly. Turns out the brake pad retaining springs and busted inside the drum and some how worked there way between the pads and drums and all kinds of weird things

 

[KyleQ]

If you ever have a drum that is totally stuck to the shoes and will not come off, simply grind the small heads off the she retainers and it will come apart. Those retainers come with the parts kit anyways - so no loss.