front end C bushings

[Jerrod4567]

Is it normal for the C bushings to become a bit distorted and kind of smash out the sides of the radius arms and front end caps when installing new ones?

 

[Hogback]

Yes, that is what they all do. I wondered the same thing when I did my first set.

 

[mtnkraus]

Mine also did

 

[Banjer Picker]

Torque Specs for it?

I'm about to put new ones on myself. Are there any torque specs for the bushing cup and the ends of hte radius arms (back where it connects to frame?) I also hear you have to tighten in a criss-cross pattern going from one side of the axle to the other. Is this correct?

(Sorry for the hi-jack.)

 

[Skiddy]

I'm about to put new ones on myself. Are there any torque specs for the bushing cup and the ends of hte radius arms (back where it connects to frame?) I also hear you have to tighten in a criss-cross pattern going from one side of the axle to the other. Is this correct?

(Sorry for the hi-jack.)

Not sure on torque but I just tighten the nut down until the rubber just starts to bulge which will be right about were you can get the cotter pin in. On the criss cross pattern it is on the same side (arm caps) top to bottom in a criss cross pattern. Hope that helps

 

[68 Broncoholic]

Going from the left arm to the right tightening in an X pattern (c-bushings) will ensure that the arms are tightened down equally so you don't get a lean problem. So with the axle on the ground, have the ends of the radius arms touching the ground. When you tighten both sides and ever see one arm lift you know they are off from one another. Losen a bit and go to the other side until it rests back down. Once its all tight lift or rock the axle and make sure the ends of the arms lift and touch the ground at the same time for a second check. Make sure its level ground.

As for the frame end just tighten until snug. That nut doesn't need to be very tight otherwise you will loose movement in the suspension. This is why there is a cotter pin there.