Fuel Injection questions

[peterinman]

I know a dude that used to be into mustangs that has a fuel injections set up for a 5.0, so he thinks. Would I be able to retrofit that onto my '74 302? What would I need to do, and what is the value?

Sorry, I should have searched before the post. I would still like to hear any and every input on the issue. Can I use the 5.0 system on both the 302, and 351?

 

[DebosDave'72]

You should be able to with no problems, what year is the EFI out of? The best are the Mass air units from the 89-93 mustang. The others can work, just the mass air are the most desirable. You want to make sure it is EEC-IV, not EEC-V, and you will want everything, the harness, intakes, all sensors, computer... basically everything you can get... It will work on 302 or 351.

DD

 

[SaddleUp]

We don't have enough info. on the setup he has to say whether it is a good or bad candidate. Generally speaking though any stock 5.0 EFI is probably a decent candidate. Best thing to do is go through the articles in the tech. section. Run a search or two here and read up on it. Then come back with any specific questions.

 

[trailpsycho]

The 351W requires a different(wider) lower intake manifold...these were only offered on the Lightnings, I believe, so they are rare and $$, otherwise you can buy aftermarket intakes for the 351W and run the EEC-IV computer and electronics. There is more to it than that. IF your friend knows what he is doing, it shouldnt be a problem. To fully get your 302 running by EFI, with new sensors, computer, intakes, 19 lb injectors, fuel pumps, new fuel plumbing, wiring, etc...even with used parts (harness, intakes, injectors, etc), you are probably looking at $500-if he gives you the EFI stuff, $1000 if he doesnt. Thats trying to be conservative as well. IF you decide to buy more stuff new, then the price will go up...that is not even taking into account the difference in firing order between your 302 and the 5.0....you could do one of tow things, run EFI with the 14 lb SD computer and maintain your current firing order and cam (this would still give excellent performance and throttle response) or you could go ahead and swap out your 302 cam for a 351W firing order cam and then run the 5.0 MAF electronics. If this confused you, good-there is alot to learn and research; but dont worry. Fortunately, there is alot of experience here on the board and people can help you once you start to help yourself. I am still trying to get everything together and organized for installing EFI on my build...it can be done cheap, but if you want everything new or at least most of it, its gonna cost you. Problem with used, is its harder to trace down any problems that might arise. Hopefully, your firend will get you up and running quickly and treat you right on the parts and labor. Best of luck.

 

[SaddleUp]

People make a lot more of the firing order difference than necessary. Even when the firing order doesn't match the ECM the result is an idle that rivals that of any carburetor and that is the only thing it effects. Most of us that have run them both ways can't really even tell a difference. Some claim the idle is a bit smoother when they match.

Differences between the 5.0 and 5.8 are minimal. The 5.8 has a wider intake and the distributor is longer. Pretty much everything else can be used between them. If the 5.0 setup is a 14 lb. SD system then it will not be suited well to the larger motor but the 19 lb. MAF setups work well. (That's what I run on mine) The above mentioned lower intake is necessary in order to get the 5.8 to fit without a custom hood scoop. The truck intake (Which is what I chose) will fit if you don't mind building a custom hood scoop. The car style lowers were available stock on the lightnings and on some of the larger police cars. Ford also sold quite a few of them into the market through FMS. They no longer sell them though so they are getting harder to find and are (IMO) normally too expensive. Keep in mind that the 5.8 car style lower only works with the car intakes that have the GT40 style ports. (Some are under the impression they will work with any car intake) As far as cost I've seen it done where the person doing it had more cash in their pocket when they were done than before they started. It cost him $300 to start (The cost of a wrecked 88 F250) and he got $100 for the bed off it before we even had it loaded onto the trailer. it was my brother so I helped him out going through the wiring and what not but when all was said and done he had a good EFI motor installed and parted out what was left over for more than he paid. The average install will cost more than this but there are enough ways to do it that it can be done either on a very limited budget or can push upwards of $2500 for all new stuff.

 

[peterinman]

I will see this guy tonight and will ask many questions. I think that he is kind of a meathead and doesn't really know what he has. I also think that he told me last year that he would sell it to me for $250. I will know more what to look for and see if it is even complete or a deal. I'll keep poeple posted.

 

[66horse]

People make a lot more of the firing order difference than necessary. Even when the firing order doesn't match the ECM the result is an idle that rivals that of any carburetor and that is the only thing it effects. Most of us that have run them both ways can't really even tell a difference. Some claim the idle is a bit smoother when they match.

I agree. I ran mismatched for a couple of years with no problem. just put in a rebuilt engine and now the firing order is right for the EFI. I cant tell a difference between now and before.

 

[Duke Nukem]

Ditto here on the mis-matched firing order. I'm running mass air EFI on my non-HO firing order 302. It runs better then it ever did with a carb. I wouldn't worry at all about changing the firing order, unless for some reason you plan to swap out the cam anyway.

 

[SaddleUp]

I will see this guy tonight and will ask many questions. I think that he is kind of a meathead and doesn't really know what he has. I also think that he told me last year that he would sell it to me for $250. I will know more what to look for and see if it is even complete or a deal. I'll keep poeple posted.

If you can find out what it came out of we can identify it. If you can't then get the 3 or 4 digit code off the ECM. (Might be a good idea to get it anyway)