New to the Bronco world. Recently purchased a 68 that's had work done to it over the years. Overall great truck in great shape. It's got a 4" lift on 35's. Seller told me when the truck sits for a few weeks the carburetor will dry out because the engine is much higher than the fuel tank/pump and it needs primed to start up. He had a check valve placed in the fuel line in the past, didn't help much. My question is what is the appropriately sized fuel pump to have - his thought was to install a bigger one? I have no idea what pump is on there now. Also, what RPM should the idle be set while in neutral? It's either a 289 or 302 V8. Engine seems sluggish. Not sure if it's the fuel system or the plugs or ? Any help is appreciated - not much of a mechanic over here!!
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Fuel Pump size for a 68
- Thread starter WHRoeSr
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Just a standard fuel pump is good for most of these engines, unless they are ultra high-performance. Do you know how yours is built?
And it sounds carbureted, so it appears that the fuel is evaporating from the float bowl rather than actually going back to the tank through the pump.
That’s usually the case anyway since fuel doesn’t easily go back through the system once it gets to the carburetor.
More likely it’s just the modern fuels evaporating more quickly, and any pump even in the old days was very likely to need a little extra work to get started again after sitting for extended periods.
Even worse these days.
And it sounds carbureted, so it appears that the fuel is evaporating from the float bowl rather than actually going back to the tank through the pump.
That’s usually the case anyway since fuel doesn’t easily go back through the system once it gets to the carburetor.
More likely it’s just the modern fuels evaporating more quickly, and any pump even in the old days was very likely to need a little extra work to get started again after sitting for extended periods.
Even worse these days.
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Oh, and welcome by the way! Can’t see from my phone if you’ve posted already and been welcome to Classic, but just in case welcome again!
Some people install electric fuel pumps in these cases so that they can simply flip a switch on the dash to momentarily run the pump and get gas into the carburetor for a quicker start.
It’s not always the solution, and the installation takes some thought in regards to safety and efficiency, but it is one that gets used occasionally.
Some people install electric fuel pumps in these cases so that they can simply flip a switch on the dash to momentarily run the pump and get gas into the carburetor for a quicker start.
It’s not always the solution, and the installation takes some thought in regards to safety and efficiency, but it is one that gets used occasionally.
Broncobowsher
Total hack
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Stock pump should be plenty.
Depending if the engine was modified (different cam), but idle in the 600-700 range is good for a stock cam and a properly tuned engine. Cranking up the idle speed is a way to make up for not getting the basic tune up correct.
Depending if the engine was modified (different cam), but idle in the 600-700 range is good for a stock cam and a properly tuned engine. Cranking up the idle speed is a way to make up for not getting the basic tune up correct.
Rustytruck
Bronco Guru
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The best solution is to drive it every day. the factory carborator has its fuel bowl just hanging out in hot air you shut off the truck and most of the fuel just evaporates modern fuels have made this situation worse. the longer it sits the more cranking of the engine it takes to get fuel to the empty carb from the tank
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And if the engine feels sluggish, that may just be normal in this situation.
What kind of vehicles are used to driving? If anything 30 years old or less, then you are used to a whole lot more torque and horsepower and efficient running engines than anything that ever came in the bronco. If you have experienced older trucks (not muscle cars) then there may be other things at work here.
A stock 289 in a bronco probably had 150 hp.
Yes, I think they were listed as 200 and about 300 pound feet of torque, but that was measured in the old method using “gross“ numbers rather than the “net“ numbers adopted in 72 and used today. So a more modern 5.0 probably had 50 to 100 more horsepower than your bronco engine does.
And a very modern 5.0 of the new engine family probably has triple the power that the old engine had. All of it hauling around what is probably a 4000 to 4500 pound vehicle with poor aerodynamics and rolling resistance and you get sluggish.
And then there are the 35 inch tires with unknown gearing and you might get extremely sluggish.
You need to find out if any of the previous owners regeared the differentials for 35 inch tires.
Most likely not.
Some more details are still needed please.
You need to verify what engine is in there and what has been done to it.
Maybe not too easy if the previous owner you bought it from didn’t do the work and is only guessing. Which it sounds like they were about other things.
Then you need to verify the differential gearing. That’s a whole lot easier and can be done in the driveway with basic tools.
By basic though, I mean a floor jack and such.
What kind of vehicles are used to driving? If anything 30 years old or less, then you are used to a whole lot more torque and horsepower and efficient running engines than anything that ever came in the bronco. If you have experienced older trucks (not muscle cars) then there may be other things at work here.
A stock 289 in a bronco probably had 150 hp.
Yes, I think they were listed as 200 and about 300 pound feet of torque, but that was measured in the old method using “gross“ numbers rather than the “net“ numbers adopted in 72 and used today. So a more modern 5.0 probably had 50 to 100 more horsepower than your bronco engine does.
And a very modern 5.0 of the new engine family probably has triple the power that the old engine had. All of it hauling around what is probably a 4000 to 4500 pound vehicle with poor aerodynamics and rolling resistance and you get sluggish.
And then there are the 35 inch tires with unknown gearing and you might get extremely sluggish.
You need to find out if any of the previous owners regeared the differentials for 35 inch tires.
Most likely not.
Some more details are still needed please.
You need to verify what engine is in there and what has been done to it.
Maybe not too easy if the previous owner you bought it from didn’t do the work and is only guessing. Which it sounds like they were about other things.
Then you need to verify the differential gearing. That’s a whole lot easier and can be done in the driveway with basic tools.
By basic though, I mean a floor jack and such.
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If you don’t have a floor jack or other garage tools, you can still check the gearing using other old-school methods.
One is a string tied around the driveshaft and a mark on one of the tires, or some chalk or tape to use as a point of reference on the driveshaft and the tire.
You’re simply looking for how many times the driveshaft makes a complete rotation for one single rotation of a tire.
One is a string tied around the driveshaft and a mark on one of the tires, or some chalk or tape to use as a point of reference on the driveshaft and the tire.
You’re simply looking for how many times the driveshaft makes a complete rotation for one single rotation of a tire.
