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Fuel Vapor Separator

taipeichris

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Joined
May 11, 2006
Messages
1,752
Hi Guys,

My 66 never had any of the vapor stuff. No expansion tank, charcoal canister nor the roll over check valve and I know I should add this system.

Does anyone make a new reproduction of the expansion tank? Also do you need one roll over valve per tank?? Or one for the system?

Tanks alot!
:cool:
 
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gr8scott

gr8scott

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Resistance in the 1/4" port

There seems to be quite a bit of resistance when blowing into the 1/4" vent port. Is this normal?
Seems my gas tank would need to build pressure to push vapor into the that port. As it stands
now, the line I ran up into my engine bay is connected to one of those small valve cover type breathers.
There was absolutely no pressure buildup in the gas tank yesterday with ambient air temps starting at
63° and topping off at 93°. No more whoooosh! Even after driving from 1500' (work) to 3000' (home).

Would it be okay to vent the gas tank to the medium 5/16" port? It's much more free flowing than the smaller port.
I know it's meant for the carb fuel bowl vent, but my Edelbrock doesn't have one. And both small ports lead into the
same chamber. FWIW, I am using the expansion/condensing/separator tank behind the driver seat. It's fully intact
and still very pliable after 45 years. Here's the canister I bought:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mof-cx741

Thoughts?
 
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gr8scott

gr8scott

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Does anyone make a new reproduction of the expansion tank?

Nope. But they do sell used ones at Bronco Graveyard. Not sure your '66 has the panel to mount it in the stock location.
Could just do what Ford did in late'76 & '77. Run a vent line from gas tank(s) to charcoal canister mounted high up in
the engine bay. In that scenario you would need the roll over valve.

Also do you need one roll over valve per tank?? Or one for the system?

Just one, in the main vent line leading to the charcoal canister.
 

omureebe

Full Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2013
Messages
402
How/where did you attach this to the air intake? I see others used more of a bigger tube, so curious (since I've gathered the parts but still need to install!) how this works with the smaller diameter tube.
Thanks!
Omar
 

Glass Pony

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How/where did you attach this to the air intake? I see others used more of a bigger tube, so curious (since I've gathered the parts but still need to install!) how this works with the smaller diameter tube.
Thanks!
Omar
I plumbed mine to the base of the air filter.
 

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gr8scott

gr8scott

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How/where did you attach this to the air intake? I see others used more of a bigger tube, so curious (since I've gathered the parts but still need to install!) how this works with the smaller diameter tube.
Thanks!
Omar

I went with 3/8". Used a 3/8" grommet (requires a 5/8" hole) and pushed in a 90° 3/8 elbow. Just finished mine up an hour ago.
We'll see how it goes. I figure it's better than what I had before, which was nothing.
 

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Steve83

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Memphis, TN, USA, Earth, Milky Way
This is somewhat vague, but it seems useful:



Does anyone have a better diagram that shows exactly how each vapor line was routed, and to which nipple on each component? Or the internal setup of the nipples in the fuel tank - were they simply straight through?
 

DirtDonk

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Turns out a 8mm spark plug boot fits perfectly into the "chimney" port, and 7mm spark plug boot fits nice and snug to the vent port.
I know the clamps aren't necessary, but I like overkill.

that's pretty slick! I wonder how well the boots will hold up to fuel vapors?
I know they're "near" that kind of stuff in their life as a spark plug boot, but not exposed directly to it for extended periods.
Should be pretty good at least for some time though.
Nice way to get 90's!

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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How/where did you attach this to the air intake? I see others used more of a bigger tube, so curious (since I've gathered the parts but still need to install!) how this works with the smaller diameter tube.
Thanks!
Omar

Do you have a stock air cleaner housing Omar? Or are you running aftermarket?
With the stock ('70-'77) housing there is a large fitting that the large hose is meant to go around. However, a standard 3/8" fuel line will slip inside of it too.
I think it's 3/8 and not 5/16" but I'd have to go back and look at "Gramps" to find out.

The fitting in the housing is like an iceberg though. It's just the tiny bit that's visible, where behind it is a filtered housing that's mounted inside the stock air cleaner.
Used to see them all the time on display in the "PCV section" of the local auto parts stores. Don't have a part number handy, but I'm sure they're made by the usual suspects, such as Fram and the like.

Paul
 
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gr8scott

gr8scott

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that's pretty slick! I wonder how well the boots will hold up to fuel vapors?
I know they're "near" that kind of stuff in their life as a spark plug boot, but not exposed directly to it for extended periods.
Should be pretty good at least for some time though.
Nice way to get 90's!

Paul

I got the idea from an old thread while researching the subject. I think it was a post from MarsChariot. I'll Inspect
them from time to time to see how well (or not) there holding up.
 

omureebe

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Messages
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Do you have a stock air cleaner housing Omar? Or are you running aftermarket?
With the stock ('70-'77) housing there is a large fitting that the large hose is meant to go around. However, a standard 3/8" fuel line will slip inside of it too.
I think it's 3/8 and not 5/16" but I'd have to go back and look at "Gramps" to find out.

The fitting in the housing is like an iceberg though. It's just the tiny bit that's visible, where behind it is a filtered housing that's mounted inside the stock air cleaner.
Used to see them all the time on display in the "PCV section" of the local auto parts stores. Don't have a part number handy, but I'm sure they're made by the usual suspects, such as Fram and the like.

Paul

Stock??? Why would I every want reliability! I have a FiTech and aftermarket air housing to keep everything under the stock hood... I was hoping to see if anyone ran a smaller line like the 3/8" to keep it clean. I think based on the comment/pics I can run a 3/8" rubber fuel line in-between the throttle body and air cleaner?
Thanks!
Omar
 

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DirtDonk

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I would think you could put mushroom caps on top of the two large ports then run a 3/8" hose (maybe with some hand-bent metal tubing for the ultimate in clean looks) from the mediums size fitting up to the air cleaner.

You can put the outlet directly into the tube between the bell/plenum and filter using maybe a thread-in hose barb fitting? Or something that you make up yourself.
It can just attach to the filter, but then you'd have to re-do that every time you change the filter. Attaching it to the intermediate tube, or to the plenum would seem the best way.

Paul
 
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gr8scott

gr8scott

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think based on the comment/pics I can run a 3/8" rubber fuel line in-between the throttle body and air cleaner?
Thanks!
Omar

That's what I'm doing and seems to be working fine. But I really think that line should come from one of the large "chimney"
ports, with a mushroom cap on the other, so that you "purge" the canister when the engine is running. That's how they did it
with the stock setup so it seems to me that's how we should be doing it.

Edit: Borrowing this picture from Steve83:
 

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DirtDonk

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I would agree with that. Seems like the larger ports would be more efficient with the low pull from the air cleaner area. Glad to hear yours seems to be working though, using the smaller port.

Paul
 
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gr8scott

gr8scott

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Well someone's up late, you're 3 hours ahead of me :)

Glad to hear yours seems to be working though, using the smaller port.

Paul

I think you meant smaller hose, as I'm running 3/8" fuel line from the large chimney port over to the air cleaner housing.
 
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gr8scott

gr8scott

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Or the internal setup of the nipples in the fuel tank - were they simply straight through?

That's a good question - maybe one someone can stick a bore scope into an empty one to see what it looks like.

What I want to know is how the in-cab separator tank is internally configured. Not the one with the vent line coming from the top
(California model?) That one makes sense. But the more common one with all the vent lines coming in at the bottom.
 

DirtDonk

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I've been curious about that as well. My original tanks are long gone though, so can't tell by me.
Probably a few still at the shop in a dark corner somewhere, but much of that stuff gets let go at the events and swap meets too, so not sure.
If nobody finds one I'll dig around our swap meet coming up in October and see what everybody brings.

Still have my separator (installed) though. Maybe I should try out one of those "Wall-a-Bees" or whatever that device is that turns your iPhone into an ultrasonic stud finder is called. Cool bit of tech, lets you see an image of what's on the other side of the material you're looking into.
Should work on a plastic tank I would think.

Paul
 

Steve83

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How about checking a new direct-replacement tank to see how they're built? Metal OR plastic; preferably both. I doubt the phone will work that way, but you might be able to hold it inside the sender hole & snap a pic. I'd bring a flashlight & mirror anyway, though.
 

Soylent

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Or you could use one of the flexible USB endoscopes the fit on your cell phone

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
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